Submitted By Edward Carter (hcarch@globalnet.co.uk) on Friday, November 6, 1998 at 14:52:29 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- game: Gran Turismo System: Playstation 2.0 INTRODUCTION ^^^^^^^^^^^^ Well, with the success I enjoyed with my San Francisco Rush: The Rock FAQ I figured that, with some help, I could compile a truly informative document for Gran Turismo (There are plenty of www sites on the subject, but not much in the way of text documents, except for Vestiroth's). Without a doubt GT is one of the most enjoyable games we have ever played, and with the exception of many sites exchanging performance data and other great stuff, there is not a helluv a lot of hardcore text info on this game. And without a doubt, this is a game that requires a LOT of patience, practice and time to play enjoyably and keep enough challenge going so as not get bored. Gran Turismo is one of, if not THE best racing games ever created. This truly ranks among the greats. Firstly, the level of realism in the driving itself is unbelievable, the only thing that's missing is the full steering wheel, and clutch, brake and gas pedals ;). The cars are perfectly accurate to their real-life versions, and the modifications possible to the cars are truly effective and life-like as well. Along with this level of realism in the actual driving, the game alone is simply FUN to play. The CPU is challenging and sometimes even wiley, but not sickingly difficult. The Arcade mode provides true stockcar racing at its best with a selection of unmodified cars that you can race in Time Attack, 1 Player or against a friend in 2 Player mode. As you place first in the 1 Player tracks, more tracks and more cars are revealed, among other things. In addition to the Arcade mode is the almost RPG-like Simulation Mode, where you begin as a lowly racecar driver without even a car and only 10,000 bucks in your pocket :). The object then is to pass your tests to get your racing licenses, and as you go, continue to modify your car and buy new ones, working to the next level of racing. This mode of the game is sickeningly fun and can literally mean days of enjoyment and challenge. Finally, what also makes Gran Turismo such an amazing game are the graphics and sounds. The graphics are some of the smoothest, most-detailed ever seen in a racing game. The level of realistic animation is so high that you can make out the smallest detail, such as lettering, on a car. The car also moves quite realistically, from perfect renditions of body roll to the weight transfer from back to front ("nose-dive" ) caused by braking. When watching the replays, you'll swear you're watching a race on TV. The sound effects, while not quite having the "punch" I wish they had, certainly fit MOST of the cars quite well. Also there is the excellent BGM--there are is a good variety of music to be listened to here, all of the tracks being fast-paced and great for driving. In particular, the song by Garbage and the BGM for the Options screen stand out as our favorites, both of which will play during the races. When it comes down to it, Gran Turismo is a truly amazing game that simply CANNOT be rented once or twice. ANY true racing-game fan will positively drool over GT, and even the casual driving player will find themselves drawn towards this game. Without a doubt this is one to BUY, and will make a fine addition to your collection of PS games. (Now that the shameless plugging of the game is through, let's get down to business :) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3.0 CAR TYPES ^^^^^^^^^ 3.1 - Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive The classic drive train setup, it's not really that efficient, but it delivers the best acceleration and often top speed, so the majority of performance cars still use this type. As stated, the advantage to these cars is raw power, acceleration and speed. However the downside to these cars is that they tend to get "loose" in the turns; the back-end of the car wants to slide outward in the corner. This is known as oversteering. Quick reflexes and experience are required to drive these cars, with great skill in "countersteering" (see section 5.2). However when it comes to accelerating out of the corner, and blowing them away down the straightaway, these cars are really fun to drive and the true cars of the masters. Beginner versions of Rear Wheel Drive cars include the Madza Eunos Roadster (Miata). Advanced cars in this class include the TVR Cerbera, Corvette and the ever-popular Dodge Viper. 3.2 - Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive These are cars that have the engine located at their front, under the hood as you may normally see. However the thing to note is that the power is delivered to the FRONT WHEELS, not the rear wheels. Most conventional cars these days run FWD. On the one hand, Front Wheel Drive cars are much more efficient because they eliminate most of the drive train (eg. drive shaft), thus reducing frictional horsepower. On the other hand the engines in FWD cars tend to make a lot less power (being MOSTLY 4-cyl and 6-cyl cars) because they are situated over the front wheels, which may put a strain on suspension and make acceleration sluggish. There are real-life exceptions of course, like the Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. Back to the game however: The true advantage to Front Wheel Drive cars is that the wheels used for steering the car are also pulling the car. Thus the car has increased traction and better responsiveness in the corner. In addition the weight transfer from back to front caused by braking is actually an ADVANTAGE in these cars, since it will apply more traction to the front wheels. The car's rear-end tends to stick like glue around the corner, since there is no power spinning the back wheels--instead, FWD cars tend to UNDERSTEER or "Push", meaning that the front of the car wants to ride up to the outside of the corner, as opposed to turning TOO sharp and sliding out. For this reason, proper apexing of the corner (see section 5.1) is required, especially when driving this kind of car. Also note that, due to this huge weight transfer onto the drive wheels, they will tend to wear quite fast and lose traction--this becomes a serious problem when running longer races. Beginner versions of Front Wheel Drive cars include the Honda Civic and Mazda Demio A-Spec (aka "The Little Shopping Cart That Could"). Advanced cars in this class include the Mitsubishi Eclipse GT. Note however that just about any Front Wheel Drive car, in stock condition, can be considered a beginner's car and all are excellent for novices. 3.3 - Front Engine, 4 Wheel Drive These are the best of both worlds above, really. On the one hand, they tend to have more horsepower than Front Wheel Drives, yet usually less horsepower than the Rear Wheel Drives. 4 Wheel Drive vehicles are special because power from the engine is delivered to all FOUR wheels. Therefore, these cars have good acceleration, and more importantly they handle GREAT in the corner. They can hold a turn quite well for the same reason the FWD can, because the wheels doing the steering are also getting the power they need to grip the track--along with this the rear wheels are also pushing them through the corner too. Thus, the 4WD cars tend to be the quickest THROUGH the corner. They hold the corner well, but can also get loose since the rear wheels can spin almost as much as Rear Wheel Drive cars--however more often than not they also understeer as well, so as with the FWD, proper apexing of the corner is essential, and it is often easier with 4WD since it holds a very tight corner. Four Wheel Drives are basically a happy medium between the other two main classes--they can beat the FWD cars in the corner usually, and they can put up a healthy challenge to the RWD cars down the straightaway. When it comes down to it, the top 4WD cars (eg. Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo) are just as good a choice as the RWD cars, since they can make up the lost straightaway speed in the corners. Stock 4WD cars usually cannot keep up with cars like the Viper, but with HP and Suspension mods, they can more than handle the job. Beginner versions of 4 Wheel Drive cars include the Mitsubishi Lancer GSR and Nissan Pulsar. Advanced cars in this class include the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo and Skyline GTR Vspec. 3.4 - Mid Engine, Rear Wheel Drive These special cases are different from other RWD cars because the engine is mounted midway through the car, instead of at the front. These cars tend to handle the weight transfer into the corner much better, since they do not have the tremendous weight of the engine sitting at the front. They basically handle the same as Front Engine-RWD cars, though they tend to oversteer less because of the lessened weight transfer. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.0 BASICS OF DRIVING ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 4.1 - Accelerating w/Automatic Transmission Acceleration with an Automatic Transmission is simple--step on the gas ;). Note however that starting from a static position (eg. beginning of race) still requires you to moderate your RPM... This of course also depends on your drive-train type. Generally, if you're running a RWD car, keep the RPM fairly low when the signal to go arrives--if your RPM is too high, you will crawl from the starting line smoking your tires off. Typically you keep RPM at this time around 3000 or so, less depending on your HP or gearing. If you're geared really high towards acceleration, you may want to begin as low as a 1000 RPM or so. You also have to keep turbo-lag in mind... turbo charged cars require you to keep the revs up no matter what, or throttle response will become nill for an agonizing moment. When accelerating with Front Wheel Drive cars, you will rarely spin the tires. Keep the RPMs up in the high range either way. Same goes for 4WD cars, though you usually get a little smoke out of these. Remember: smoking the tires a little when the green flag drops is not a problem, as long as you get up to speed quick enough. The RPM you start at is something you need to get a feel for, since it varies with every car, but generally 4WD and FWD allow you to basically pin it. 4.2 - Accelerating w/Manual Transmission Same notes about starting from a green flag, but some words on shifting are needed. For those who don't know, a Manual Transmission will not change gears unless you tell it to, meaning you can start in 1st gear and if you don't shift, the car will redline and eventually stop gaining speed (and if this were real life, you'd over-rev the engine and blow it up too ;). In the long run, a stick is a much better choice as it provides quicker acceleration (since you can shift a little later than an auto would, edging out that last little bit of HP in that gear), and gets you out of the corner faster too; an automatic with often stay in a certain gear through a corner, and end up accelerating too slowly out of the corner. Downshifting for cornering allows you to accelerate much quicker out of the corners and gives improved response during and coming out of slides (and if you're not careful, can take ya for a loop too ;). To properly shift your gears, wait for the tach (tachometer, the gauge on the bottom right of your screen) to reach near redline, then shift up. If you wait too long and bring the RPM right up through redline, you may stop gaining horsepower and lose a bit of acceleration (and again, if this is real life, you'd blow the engine). Sometimes however this helps during cornering, to keep it in a lower gear to prevent heading up into the wall. See section 5.0 for more info on cornering. So overall, the basic idea is to shift when the needle is entering the red ;). 4.3 - Braking For Corners (by tigeraid) Whenever I try to teach beginners how to take a corner, the most common mistake they make is braking too late. Braking really should not be used TO corner, rather to slow FOR the corner. Oftentimes when you brake during your turn, you will either slide out too much, or understeer and cause your car to drift up to the corner. Braking at high speeds usually results in uncontrollable sliding. My father's a stockcar driver, and his philosophy on cornering is fairly simple: "If the wheels aren't rotating, you have no no control", meaning that if the wheels are not rotating because you have applied the brakes, they will follow the intertia and slide in the direction the car is going, frequently towards the outside of the corner. Thus, brakes should be used BEFORE the corner--I cannot stress this enough. Now, with the tweaking possible in Simulation Mode, allowing you to adjust the strength of your front and back brakes, this can be compensated for somewhat, but the basic idea still remains. This problem with braking is especially evident when driving RWD cars, because of the torque they generate through the corners combined with the weight transferring OFF of the drive wheels from braking. Either you will get very loose and lose control, or you will understeer and not be able to recover in time. Remember, BRAKE WHEN ENTERING THE CORNER, then turn and downshift when needed. See section 5.0 for more info. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5.0 DRIVING TECHNIQUES ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ First a couple of notes: -OUTSIDE/INSIDE: referring to the "outside" or "inside" of a turn--pretty straight-forward, the "outside" of, say, a left turn would be the right side of the turn; the "inside" of that turn would be the left side. -WEIGHT TRANSFER: when entering a corner in a car in real life, you will notice that your weight will shift to the outside of that corner. This is known as centrifugal force. Ever swing a bucket of water around, and the water stays in the bottom of the bucket even when upside down? That's centrifugal force. The same thing applies to cars entering corners. Throughout the corner the weight of the car will shift to the outside. More specifically, the weight will shift from the inside rear of the car to the outside front of the car, because there is still forward inertia from entering the corner. This back to front weight transfer is applied further if braking occurs. Weight transfer is what causes both understeering and oversteering (see below). In addition to the weight transfer caused by centrifugal force and intertia, braking also comes into play (See section 4.3.) 5.1 - "Apexing the Turn" -- How To Best Navigate a Corner Apexing the turn refers to taking the fastest and shortest possible line around the corner. This is usually accomplished by starting on the outside of the turn, diving to the inside, and coming out on the outside again. Thus: ____________________c____ / | | | b___________ In this rather simple example of a perfect | | 90 degree turn, the idea is to get from | | point a to point c, but THROUGH b, taking | | the shortest route around the corner. | | Obviously, apexing a corner is easier the | | bigger, wider and more gradual the turn |a | is. Running faster cars, especially RWD, | | may require you to slide the back end out | | when you reach point b to prevent from hitting the outside around point c (see 5.2 below). There are other ways to apex a turn, depending of course on the shape of the turn. On a really sharp hairpin or "almost-hairpin" turn, a different path must be chosen: ____________ / \ | \ | \ | \ | b___ \ In this example, the idea is to get from | | \ \ point a to point c, but this time the |a | \ \ nose of your car should already be | | \ c \ pointing around to point b. This can be | | | | done by sliding the car around with a RWD | | | | or even 4WD, or slowing down and taking | | | | the turn sharp enough with the FWD. | | | | Ideally you should end up on the outside of the corner, point c. It is especially important to start this turn far to the outside near point a. If you hug the inside and attempt to turn into point b, often your car will end up nose-first outside the corner (in the grass, dirt or the wall). 5.2 - Sliding through corners Sliding is done most often with RWD cars, but also occurs with 4WD. Sliding the car refers to turning a corner so sharply that you swing the back end of the car out, sliding the back tires around. Sometimes this can be a bad thing but in most cases, it is the best way FOR a car to take a corner, to prevent you from understeering and drifting to the outside of the turn. One must note however, that careful control must be used to ensure that you do not "spin out" or "loop" the car, or you're in big trouble. To slide effectively, it is best to approach the corner and brake EARLY, being sure to point the nose of your car toward the inside part of the corner--if it's a right hand turn, crank the car to the right so that the nose points to the inside of the turn, while applying the brakes. Let off the brakes early so that you do not spin out, or simply slow the car down too much. If all goes well, the back of your car will slide around to the outside of the turn. But you're not done yet; if you just hammer the gas and go, you will either loop it, or smack your rear quarterpanel against an outside wall. You now have to "countersteer" to bring the car back. We may refer to this throughout the Compendium as "counter(ing)", "bringing it out/back" or "correcting". This is when you counteract the affects of a slide by steering into it. For example, if you were to take a hard right turn, the back end of the car would slide out to the left--in order to "correct" this, turn the wheels to the left; this will bring the back end around in the proper direction (hopefully in time :). The amount you have to turn the wheel in correction depends on the severity of the slide and the handling of your specific car. In the case of the 4WD car, the slide is often much easier to correct, as the front wheels will also pull the car's front end outward since they also have power delivered to them. Get used to this quick countersteer, so you do not end up "overcorrecting" and sending the front end careening to the outside of the turn instead. 5.3 - Navigating the S-Turn Navigating an S-Turn requires good timing and expert setup. One must take the first turn while taking into account how he will enter the second one. The basic principle follows the idea of apexing a turn--take the shortest route possible, so less turns are needed. | d| | | \ \ \ \ / / ____________/ / / c / / / | / | b___________/ In this example, the idea again is to get | / from point a to point d, but to take the | | shortest route possible, through b and c. | | In this particular diagram, this is pretty |a | simple, being almost a straight line. | | Now, in extreme cases, the corner at point c may be a much sharper left turn, and thus you must be prepared to start an early slide (or slow and turn early with FWD) AS you come out of your first turn. To do this, simply jerk it quickly in the other direction, remembering to countersteer quickly. In addition, it is often best to apply the brakes briefly around the outside of the center turn (point c as above) to perform this slide, or to otherwise slow you enough that you don't hit the outside of the middle turn (below point d as above). 5.4 - General Tips Cornering with RWD When driving a RWD car around a corner, you must always be ready to countersteer--when using a normal D-pad controller, this can often be done by quickly tapping to countersteer. If you simply hold in the outside direction you will overcorrect and be in even bigger trouble. If you find yourself understeering too much, with your nose heading to the outside of the turn, it is possible to throw yourself into a sharper slide, even from a gradual one you may be performing. To do this simply crank it sharper and longer than you did initially. Sometimes you may even have to briefly tap the brakes to get the tires sliding. Worst case scenario, you will smack your ass-end into the outside wall (if any) and be off. This is a good technique to use on corners with outside walls if you find yourself losing a slide, but try not to do it often on open turns unless you're SURE the sharper slide will keep you on the pavement. Hitting the grass can often be worse than spinning out. For cases like this, "peppering" the brakes (tapping them briefly for a short period) and letting off the gas will also work to slow the car down enough, and at the same time not allowing it to understeer too much. The problem with this is that, with RWD cars, this may cause you to slide too much... This will take practice, you need a definite feel for it. 5.5 - General Tips Cornering with 4WD Always remember that VERY quick recoveries from slides are commonplace with 4WD, so practice the proper amount of correction needed, to prevent you from overcorrecting. A mistake that plagues beginners became popular first in Sega Rally, which became known as the "pinball effect": players correct too quickly and end up bringing the nose into the outside wall (if any), then try to correct again and bounce of the inside wall, then back out, etc... If you're in an open turn and this happens, chances are you'll just fishtail wildly and loop it anyways. And always remember, you will most often outhandle the other cars in the corner with 4WD, so don't be afraid to attempt to pass them on the outside, but of course always be weary of dirty tactics (see section 5.7 ;). 5.6 - General Tips Cornering with FWD Braking is, in fact, one of your best friends when driving a FWD. It is pretty difficult to slide uncontrollably when braking with a FWD, unless you TRY to do it ;). So, don't be afraid to apply the brakes a little if you find yourself understeering, but still be careful not to give it TOO much, or you will push up into the outside. 5.7 - Cornering with traffic >From the smash-bang world of stockcar racing, you can learn many devious techniques for out-DRIVING your other opponents. So, you're a measly Toyota Supra with oh, let's say 280 hp. Up ahead of you leading the race is the powerful Dodge Viper GTS, with 449 hp. What to do? You just aren't fast enough! So what... OUTDRIVE 'EM. One of the most common driving rules in the racing business is that passing on the inside is easier. Of course, if you totally outhandle the other car you can probably pass on the outside pretty easily, but it's always easy to pass them on the inside. When you do this you take a shorter route around the corner than they do, and also tend to get a better run into the corner. But what's even better is a classic short-track technique, commonly referred to as "using" the other car. When you get up on the inside of another car in the corner, DON'T let off the gas and DON'T brake. Let the other car act as your guide, as your "wall", if you will. You can ride them all the way around the corner without letting up and take right off when you come out of the turn. The other car also prevents you from moving to the outside of the corner, and usually keeps your ass-end around the corner too. This is not so easy against experienced human players, as they can fight back--for example, they can let off ever so briefly early in the corner and cause you to fly off ahead of them into the wall, or outside of the turn either way--However this is a VERY easy way to beat the CPU. You will often see the whole field of computer cars check up as they reach the outside of the turn; don't follow their example :). Instead, just plow right into the turn and USE the cars on the outside. Often this can slingshot you from last place to first in one turn. See section 14.0 for some more tips. 5.8 - Drafting Also known as "slip-streaming", this makes use of another car's air resitance to increase your speed. When a car moves, it must push against the air, causing a resistance. The shape of the car can determines its amount of wind resistance, i.e. if it is aerodynamic, more of the air tends to flow easily around the car, then become a direct force against it. The less wind resistance you have on your car, the faster it will go (and alternately, air flow can create downforce on parts of the car to gain more traction, i.e. the rear wing/spoiler, and the front air dam). So, what do you do if you get caught walking in a wind storm? You try and find someplace, perhaps a doorway, where the wind cannot hit you--you're creating a barrier against the wind. Drafting is based on this principle; obviously, if there is an object in front of your car blocking the air, it will greatly decrease the wind resistance on your own car. Thus, in order to draft, you tuck behind another car in front of you, taking the wind resistance off of your car and allowing to accelerate to a greater speed. Simply, once you notice yourself almost running into the back of the car in front, slip off to the side, and your built-up speed will allow you to literally slingshot around the car. This technique is ESPECIALLY important in the Megaspeed Race to get into the lead. This is also an excellent way for slightly slower cars to gain an edge--if you get a great exit off of a corner leading to a longer straight and manage to get behind a slightly faster car for a moment, you can draft it and slip by. NOTE: drafting only works at fairly high speeds, and you of course have to be fairly close behind the car in front for the draft to work. In other words, drafting is important on places like High Speed Ring or the Test Track, but is pretty much non-existant on lower-speed track like Autumn Ring Mini or even most of Deep Forest. BTW, some of you may have heard the top speed records on the internet ranging from 280-385 mph. AFAIK, there is no way for a car to do this by itself ('cept with the Gameshark), however drafting during the Megaspeed Race with the highest top-speed cars (eg. fully modded Supra RZ, GTO Twin Turbo or Skyline) will allow you to attain these speeds. 5.9 - Differences in handling with the Dual Shock The Dual Shock provides analog control. What this allows you to do is moderate the amount of pressure you apply to the controls. This in effect makes it act more like a real steering wheel--if you're coming up on a long, easy curve, you can simply apply a small amount of pressure and take the turn nice and smooth, as you would turning the steering wheel just a little bit in real life. When using the normal D-Pad on an easy curve, you have to tap it repeatedly in short increments. The analog allows you to not only stop this tapping, and thus stop the quick jerks and sliding from the car, but also it may help you shave a couple hundredths of a second of your lap times. We DEFINETELY recommend the Dual Shock controller for Gran Turismo, also because it has the "rumble-pack" addition to it, which creates small vibrations in the controller when you skid the tires, hit other cars or objects, or even accelerate with a hard-running engine. It's not as if you can't PLAY the game without it, it's just a really nice addition to an already great game. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6.0 CAR DISCUSSION ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Note: some figures are currently missing for the more obscure cars. Additions are welcome, this will be updated. 6.1 - Honda/Acura Honda is a good solid manufacturer of cars. Although they tend to lose out in the A Class of stock/arcade racing (except for the NSX), Honda features an excellent addition to the C Class and holds its own in the B class as well. Honda also dominates the FWD class with cars like the Civic 3-Door and Prelude Si VTec--there's a good chance that, if you wanna win the Front Wheel Drive challenge, or use a damn-good C-class car in Arcade Mode, that you choose a modded Honda. CAR LIST-NOTES -------------- ACURA NSX: -Drivetrain: Mid Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 290 hp @ 7300 rpm -Torque: 224 ft.lbs. @ 5300 rpm -Weight: 3068 lbs. -Price: 91,070 -Notes: ACURA NSX TypeS: -Drivetrain: Mid Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 7300 rpm -Torque: 224 ft.lbs. @ 5300 rpm -Weight: 2910 lbs. -Price: 103,570 -Notes: ACURA NSX TypeS Zero: -Drivetrain: Mid Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 7300 rpm -Torque: 224 ft.lbs. @ 5300 rpm -Weight: 2779 lbs. -Price: 98,570 -Notes: ACURA INTEGRA GS-R: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 170 hp @ 7600 rpm -Torque: 128 ft.lbs. @ 6200 rpm -Weight: 2667 lbs. -Price: 19,580 -Notes: ACURA INTEGRA TypeR: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 195 hp @ 8000 rpm -Torque: 130 ft.lbs. @ 7500 rpm -Weight: 2594 lbs. -Price: 22,280 -Notes: ACURA NSX-R LM GT2: -Drivetrain: Mid Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 549 hp @ 8200 rpm -Torque: 355 ft.lbs. @ 8200 rpm -Weight: 2314 lbs. -Price: 500,000 -Notes: Limited Edition available from dealer only '93 HONDA PRELUDE Si: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 160 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 156 ft.lbs. @ 5000 rpm -Weight: 2865 lbs. -Price: -Notes: '93 HONDA PRELUDE VTec: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 190 hp @ 6800 rpm -Torque: 158 ft.lbs. @ 5500 rpm -Weight: 2932 lbs. -Price: -Notes: HONDA PRELUDE: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 195 hp @ 6800 rpm -Torque: 156 ft.lbs. @ 5500 rpm -Weight: 2954 lbs. -Price: 18,830 -Notes: HONDA CIVIC SEDAN: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 127 hp @ 7800 rpm -Torque: 107 ft.lbs. @ 7300 rpm -Weight: 2517 lbs. -Price: 18,280 -Notes: HONDA CIVIC 3-Door: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 106 hp @ 7800 rpm -Torque: 103 ft.lbs. @ 7300 rpm -Weight: 2253 lbs. -Price: 17,280 -Notes: HONDA CIVIC (Racer): -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 182 hp @ 8200 rpm -Torque: 118 ft.lbs. @ 7500 rpm -Weight: 2314 lbs. -Price: 19,980 -Notes: '93 HONDA del Sol S: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 102 hp @ 6800 rpm -Torque: 98 ft.lbs. @ 5200 rpm -Weight: 2286 lbs. -Price: -Notes: '93 HONDA del Sol Si: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 125 hp @ 7800 rpm -Torque: 106 ft.lbs. @ 7300 rpm -Weight: 2286 lbs. -Price: -Notes: '91 HONDA CIVIC CR-X Si: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 152 hp @ 7600 rpm -Torque: 100 ft.lbs. @ 7000 rpm -Weight: 2138 lbs -Price: n/a -Notes: Prize Car only (FF Challenge) HONDA ACCORD SEDAN: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 170 hp @ 6800 rpm -Torque: 165 ft.lbs. @ 5500 rpm -Weight: 3284 lbs. -Price: 23,540 -Notes: HONDA ACCORD WAGON: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 145 hp @ 6800 rpm -Torque: 147 ft.lbs. @ 5500 rpm -Weight: 3196 lbs. -Price: 26,980 -Notes: HONDA del Sol LM EDITION -Drivetrain: Mid Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 563 hp @ ? rpm -Torque: 147 ft.lbs. @ 5500 rpm -Weight: 1962 lbs. -Price: n/a -Notes: Prize Car only (Lightweight Special) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 6.2 - Nissan Similar to Honda, Nissan provides a great selection of RWD cars, as well as one of the better all-around cars in the game, the 4WD Skyline series. It also has a good all-around FWD car in the Primera as well--an excellent car for beginners in Sim Mode. CAR LIST-NOTES -------------- FAIRLADY Z VERSION S 2by2: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 227 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 201 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: 3240 lbs. -Price: 32,500 -Notes: FAIRLADY Z VERSION S TWIN TURBO 2by2: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 286 ft.lbs. @ 3600 rpm -Weight: 3461 lbs. -Price: 42,300 -Notes: FAIRLADY Z VERSION S 2seater: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 227 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 201 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: 3152 lbs. -Price: 30,500 -Notes: FAIRLADY Z VERSION S TWIN TURBO 2seater: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 286 ft.lbs. @ 3600 rpm -Weight: 3373 lbs. -Price: 39,300 -Notes: R32 SKYLINE GT-R: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6800 rpm -Torque: 260 ft.lbs. @ 4400 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: R32 SKYLINE GT-R VSpec: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6800 rpm -Torque: 260 ft.lbs. @ 4400 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: R32 SKYLINE GT-R NISMO: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6800 rpm -Torque: 260 ft.lbs. @ 4400 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: R32 SKYLINE GTS-t Type M: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 212 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 195 ft.lbs. @ 3200 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: R32 SKYLINE GTS25 Type S: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 187 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 170 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: R32 SKYLINE GTS4: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 247 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 195 ft.lbs. @ 3200 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: R32 SKYLINE GTS25t Type M: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 249 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 217 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: R33 SKYLINE GT-R: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6800 rpm -Torque: 271 ft.lbs. @ 4400 rpm -Weight: 3373 lbs. -Price: 48,850 -Notes: R33 SKYLINE GT-R VSpec: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6800 rpm -Torque: 271 ft.lbs. @ 4400 rpm -Weight: 3395 lbs. -Price: 53,900 -Notes: S14 SKYLINE Q'S: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 158 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 139 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: 2623 lbs. -Price: 17,950 -Notes: S14 SKYLINE K's: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 217 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 203 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: 2755 lbs. -Price: 23,950 -Notes: '91 S13 SKYLINE Q's 2000cc: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 138 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 132 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: '91 S13 SKYLINE K's 2000cc: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 202 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 203 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: '88 S13 SKYLINE Q's 1800cc: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 133 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 117 ft.lbs. @ 5200 rpm -Weight: 2403 lbs. -Price: n/a -Notes: Prize Car only (FR Challenge) '88 S13 SKYLINE K's 1800cc: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 202 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 203 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: SIL EIGHTY: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 198 hp @ rpm -Torque: ft.lbs. @ rpm -Weight: 2579 lbs. -Price: n/a -Notes: Prize Car only (FR Challenge) PRIMERA 2.0Te -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 148 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 137 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: 2601 lbs. -Price: 24,020 -Notes: 180SX Type X: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 202 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 203 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 2689 lbs. -Price: 24,980 -Notes: 180SX Type S: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 138 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 132 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: 2645 lbs. -Price: 19,400 -Notes: '91 PULSAR GTi-R: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 227 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 210 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: 2689 lbs. -Price: -Notes: NISMO GT-R LM: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 661 hp @ 7600 rpm -Torque: 467 ft.lbs. @ 7100 rpm -Weight: 2513 lbs. -Price: 500,000 -Notes: Limited Edition available only at dealer ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 6.3 - Chevrolet You'll have to excuse us, especially tigeraid, but we're serious GM lovers. As such, you MAY just see a BIT of bias here or there... :) Anywho, we think personally that GT could've made a little more effort with Chevy, because the cars available here don't truly show the awesomeness of Chevrolet. The current generation 'vettes available here are really not that great, compared to cars like the Viper GTS. It would've been nice to see a Corvette C5 in here, which would certainly be a challenge for the freakin' Dodge! Or for that matter, the Z28 with the LS1 package. Anyway, this is rambling.... see section 16.0 for more discussion on this. Either way, Chevrolet still makes a decent showing in GT. The Camaro is just plain FUN to drive, especially the 30th Anniversary edition. Both Camaros can be modded much more for a more competitive car (unbelievable handling, though not much as far as REAL speed). In addition the two '96 Corvettes can be truly competitive in modded form, though they lose out a fair bit to the Viper in stock form. And of course, the classic Stingray is a hoot to drive, even if it does handle like a wet noodle. :) Once you get a hang of its power sliding though... CAR LIST-NOTES -------------- '67 CORVETTE STINGRAY COUPE: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 450 hp @ rpm -Torque: ft.lbs. @ rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: '96 CORVETTE COUPE: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 330 hp @ 5500 rpm -Torque: 341 ft.lbs. @ 4400 rpm -Weight: 3218 lbs. -Price: 45,350 -Notes: '96 CORVETTE GRAND SPORT: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 330 hp @ 5500 rpm -Torque: 341 ft.lbs. @ 4400 rpm -Weight: 3218 lbs. -Price: 49,250 -Notes: CAMARO Z-28: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 285 hp @ 5200 rpm -Torque: 325 ft.lbs. @ 2400 rpm -Weight: 3461 lbs. -Price: 24,770 -Notes: CAMARO Z-28 30th ANNIVERSARY EDITION: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 279 hp @ 5200 rpm -Torque: 325 ft.lbs. @ 2400 rpm -Weight: 3461 lbs. -Price: n/a -Notes: Prize Car only (Clubman Cup) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 6.4 - Dodge Dodge only carries four models, but that's all it needs. Although we carry a bit of bias against Dodge, we have to admit that the Vipers are truly a joy to drive and blow away most of the compitition, especially dominating stock/ Arcade races. All models are RWD and A Class. Now if only the Concept Car wasn't so DAMN ugly... CAR LIST-NOTES -------------- VIPER RT/10: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 449 hp @ 5200 rpm -Torque: 491 ft.lbs. @ 3700 rpm -Weight: 3187 lbs. -Price: 68,800 -Notes: VIPER GTS: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 449 hp @ 5200 rpm -Torque: 491 ft.lbs. @ 3700 rpm -Weight: 3240 lbs. -Price: 80,040 -Notes: CONCEPT CAR: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 220 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: n/a -Weight: 2160 lbs. -Price: n/a -Notes: Not for Sale CONCEPT CAR: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 560 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: n/a -Weight: 1329 lbs. -Price: n/a -Notes: Prize Car only (UK vs. US) VIPER GTS-R: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 680 hp @ rpm -Torque: n/a -Weight: 2753 lbs. -Price: n/a -Notes: Prize Car only (US vs. Japan) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 6.5 - Subaru Subaru's a little limited in Arcade mode, but nonetheless they do have some great models. Truly, Subaru IS the beauty of all-wheel drive, because ALL of the their models are 4WD. Also interesting to note is that all but TWO of their cars (both versions of the Alcyone) are A class. The Impreza is truly a competitive car when fully modded as well. CAR LIST-NOTES -------------- ALCYONE SVX Version L: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 237 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 228 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: ALCYONE SVX S4: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 237 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 228 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: 3505 lbs. -Price: n/a -Notes: Prize Car only (4WD Challenge) LEGACY TOURING SEDAN RS: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 250 ft.lbs. @ 5000 rpm -Weight: 3042 lbs. -Price: 27,330 -Notes: LEGACY TOURING WAGON GT-B: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 250 ft.lbs. @ 5000 rpm -Weight: 3152 lbs. -Price: 29,330 -Notes: '93 LEGACY TOURING SPORT RS: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 247 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 228 ft.lbs. @ 5000 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: '93 LEGACY TOURING WAGON GT: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 247 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 228 ft.lbs. @ 5000 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: IMPREZA WRX-STi TypeR: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 253 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 2733 lbs. -Price: 30,000 -Notes: '96 IMPREZA Sedan WRX: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 242 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 2755 lbs. -Price: 25,550 -Notes: '96 IMPREZA Sedan WRX-STi ver. III: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 253 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 2755 lbs. -Price: 28,850 -Notes: '96 IMPREZA Wagon WRX: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 237 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 224 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 2843 lbs. -Price: 25,220 -Notes: '96 IMPREZA Wagon WRX-STi ver. III: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 253 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 2865 lbs. -Price: 28,850 -Notes: '95 IMPREZA Sedan WRX-STi ver. II: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 256 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 228 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: '95 IMPREZA Wagon WRX-STi ver. II: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 256 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 228 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: '94 IMPREZA Sedan WRX: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 217 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 206 ft.lbs. @ 3500 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: '94 IMPREZA Wagon WRX: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 256 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 228 ft.lbs. @ 5000 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: IMPREZA RALLY EDITION: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 585 hp @ 7600 rpm -Torque: 410 ft.lbs. @ 7100 rpm -Weight: 2160 lbs. -Price: 500,000 -Notes: Limited Edition available only at dealer ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 6.6 - TVR TVR is really not THAT bad. The problem is that, in stock form, the TVRs handle like wet noodles. Mind you, when you can get the handle of the Cerbera especially, it can even keep up with the Viper everywhere but top-end. In Sim Mode, a MODDED TVR can be quite competitive, once it gets some tires and suspension under it. CAR LIST-NOTES -------------- CERBERA: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 350 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 320 ft.lbs. @ 4500 rpm -Weight: 2425 lbs. -Price: 84.800 -Notes: GRIFFITH 500: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 340 hp @ 5500 rpm -Torque: 351 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 2336 lbs. -Price: 83,200 -Notes: GRIFFITH BLACKPOOL B340: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 335 hp @ 5500 rpm -Torque: 365 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 2336 lbs. -Price: 79,800 -Notes: CERBERA LM EDITION: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 581 hp @ rpm -Torque: n/a -Weight: 1984 lbs. -Price: n/a -Notes: Prize Car only (UK vs. Japan) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 6.7 - Astin Martin Another English manufacturer of powerhouses, Astin Martin provides only A Class cars and, similar to TVR, are not too hot in the handling department in stock form, and not as fast as top runners like the Viper down the straights. Again however, with modded suspension and good tires, these can hang with the best of them. CAR LIST-NOTES -------------- DB7 COUPE: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 335 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 266 ft.lbs. @ 3000 rpm -Weight: 3802 lbs. -Price: 150,000 -Notes: DB7 VOLANTE: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 335 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 362 ft.lbs. @ 3000 rpm -Weight: 4133 lbs. -Price: 164,000 -Notes: DB7 COUPE: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 328 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 266 ft.lbs. @ 3000 rpm -Weight: 3802 lbs. -Price: n/a -Notes: Prize Car only (Megaspeed) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 6.8 - Toyota Toyota is arguably the most well-rounded manufacturer in the game. They provide an excellent A-Class selection for Arcade mode, including real treats like the MR2 in arcade mode. Their A-Class cars are also excellent Sim Mode projects that are easy to build up. Toyota also has one of the fastest top-speed cars in the game: The Toyota Supra RZ when fully modded. Toyota also offers a good selection of FF cars, and also carries one 4WD model, the Celica GT-FOUR, also an excellent all-around car. CAR LIST-NOTES -------------- STARLET GLANZA V: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 133 hp @ 6400 rpm -Torque: 116 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: 2028 lbs. -Price: 14,300 -Notes: COROLLA LEVIN BZG: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 163 hp @ 7800 rpm -Torque: 119 ft.lbs. @ 5600 rpm -Weight: 2270 lbs. -Price: 16,900 -Notes: SPRINTER TRUENO BZG: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 163 hp @ 7800 rpm -Torque: 119 ft.lbs. @ 5600 rpm -Weight: 2270 lbs. -Price: 16,900 -Notes: CELICA SS-II: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 177 hp @ 7000 rpm -Torque: 141 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: 2645 lbs. -Price: 21,360 -Notes: CELICA GT-FOUR: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 251 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 224 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 3042 lbs. -Price: 32,660 -Notes: '92 MARK II TOURER V: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6200 rpm -Torque: 268 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: '92 MARK II TOURER S: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 177 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 174 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: -Price: -Notes: CHASER TOURER V: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6200 rpm -Torque: 278 ft.lbs. @ 2400 rpm -Weight: 3240 lbs. -Price: 32,220 -Notes: CHASER TOURER S: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 197 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 188 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 3086 lbs. -Price: 27,500 -Notes: SOARER 2.5GT-T: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6200 rpm -Torque: 268 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: 3439 lbs. -Price: 34,800 -Notes: MR2 G-LIMITED: -Drivetrain: Mid Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 177 hp @ 7000 rpm -Torque: 141 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: 2733 lbs. -Price: 23,600 -Notes: MR2 GT-S: -Drivetrain: Mid Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 242 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 224 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 2821 lbs. -Price: 27,130 -Notes: '95 SUPRA SZ-R: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 222 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 210 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Weight: 3196 lbs. -Price: 32,000 -Notes: SUPRA RZ: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 5600 rpm -Torque: 318 ft.lbs. @ 3600 rpm -Weight: 3328 lbs. -Price: 43,900 -Notes: SUPRA MA70 GT TURBO LIMITED: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 237 hp @ 5600 rpm -Torque: 253 ft.lbs. @ 3200 rpm -Notes: SUPRA JZA70 GT TWIN TURBO-R: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6200 rpm -Torque: 268 ft.lbs. @ 4800 rpm -Notes: AE86 COROLLA LEVIN GT-APEX: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 128 hp @ 6600 rpm -Torque: 110 ft.lbs. @ 5200 rpm -Notes: AE86 COROLLA SPRINTER TRUENO: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 128 hp @ 6600 rpm -Torque: 110 ft.lbs. @ 5200 rpm -Notes: CASTROL SUPRA GT: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 656 hp @ 6800 rpm -Torque: 512 ft.lbs. @ 6800 rpm -Weight: 2535 lbs. -Price: 500,000 -Notes: CHASER LM EDITION: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 655 hp @ rpm -Weight: 2777 lbs. -Price: n/a -Notes: Prize Car only (GT Cup) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 6.9 - Mitsubishi Mitsubishi is another good all-around manufacturer. It is the dealer of what is considered the best all-around car in the game, the GTO Twin Turbo, as well as an EXCELLENT B-Class car in the FF Eclipse. Most of Mitsubishi's cars are easily modded and make for expert driving, although they carry no RWD cars. CAR LIST-NOTES -------------- GTO SR: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 222 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 203 ft.lbs. @ 4500 rpm -Weight: 3549 lbs. -Price: 29,980 -Notes: GTO TWIN TURBO: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 315 ft.lbs. @ 2500 rpm -Weight: 43,230 -Price: 3769 lbs. -Notes: GALANT VR-G TOURING: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 148 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 132 ft.lbs. @ 5000 rpm -Weight: 2733 lbs. -Price: 20,900 -Notes: GALANT VR-4: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 5500 rpm -Torque: 268 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 3262 lbs. -Price: 29,800 -Notes: ECLIPSE GT: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 227 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 213 ft.lbs. @ 2500 rpm -Weight: 2932 lbs. -Price: 23,600 -Notes: '94 FTO GR: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 168 hp @ 7000 rpm -Torque: 137 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Notes: FTO GR: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 177 hp @ 7000 rpm -Torque: 141 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 2535 lbs. -Price: 18,870 -Notes: FTO GPX: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 197 hp @ 7500 rpm -Torque: 148 ft.lbs. @ 6000 rpm -Weight: 2579 lbs. -Price: 23,330 -Notes: FTO GP VERSION R: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 197 hp @ 7500 rpm -Torque: 148 ft.lbs. @ 6000 rpm -Weight: 2535 lbs. -Price: 21,600 -Notes: LANCER EvolutionIII GSR: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 266 hp @ 6250 rpm -Torque: 228 ft.lbs. @ 3000 rpm -Notes: LANCER EvolutionIV GSR: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 260 ft.lbs. @ 3000 rpm -Weight: 2976 lbs. -Price: 23,940 -Notes: MIRAGE Asti RX: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 173 hp @ 7500 rpm -Torque: 123 ft.lbs. @ 7000 rpm -Weight: 2358 lbs. -Price: 17,630 -Notes: '92 MIRAGE CYBORG R: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 173 hp @ 7500 rpm -Torque: 123 ft.lbs. @ 7000 rpm -Notes: FTO LM EDITION: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 541 hp @ 8500 rpm -Torque: n/a -Weight: 2050 lbs. -Price: n/a -Notes: Prize Car only (US vs. Japan) GTO LM EDITION: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Four Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 613 hp @ 7000 rpm -Torque: 467 ft.lbs. @ 6500 rpm -Weight: 2821 lbs. -Price: 500,000 -Notes: Limited edition available at dealer only. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 6.9 - Mazda Also a good all-around manufacturer, they make those silly Demio's... but still, all their cars are easily modified and they provide good competition in all classes. They are also, of course, the only current manufacturer to utilize Wankel (Rotary) engines. CAR LIST-NOTES -------------- EUNOS COSMO 13B Type-S CCS: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 227 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 217 ft.lbs. @ 3500 rpm -Notes: EUNOS COSMO 20B Type-E CCS: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 276 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 297 ft.lbs. @ 3000 rpm -Notes: LANTIS COUPE 2000 Type-R: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 168 hp @ 7000 rpm -Torque: 132 ft.lbs. @ 5500 rpm -Weight: 2733 lbs. -Price: 20,750 -Notes: EUNOS ROADSTER: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 118 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 101 ft.lbs. @ 4500 rpm -Weight: 2160 lbs. -Price: 17,400 -Notes: EUNOS ROADSTER V-Special: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 118 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 101 ft.lbs. @ 4500 rpm -Weight: 2182 lbs. -Price: 24,400 -Notes: EUNOS ROADSTER S-Special: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 118 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 101 ft.lbs. @ 4500 rpm -Weight: 2182 lbs. -Price: 22,250 -Notes: '91 FD EFINI RX-7 TypeR: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 261 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 217 ft.lbs. @ 5000 rpm -Notes: FD EFINI RX-7 TypeRZ: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 261 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 217 ft.lbs. @ 5000 rpm -Weight: 2755 lbs. -Price: 40,150 -Notes: FD EFINI RX-7 TypeRB: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 261 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 217 ft.lbs. @ 5000 rpm -Weight: 2777 lbs. -Price: 32,400 -Notes: FD EFINI RX-7 TouringX: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 261 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 217 ft.lbs. @ 5000 rpm -Weight: 2932 lbs. -Price: 38,150 -Notes: FD EFINI RX-7 A-Spec: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 261 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 217 ft.lbs. @ 5000 rpm -Weight: 2689 lbs. -Price: 45,150 -Notes: FC SAVANNA RX-7 GTX: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 202 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 199 ft.lbs. @ 3500 rpm -Notes: FC SAVANNA RX-7 EFINI III: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 212 hp @ 6500 rpm -Torque: 203 ft.lbs. @ 3500 rpm -Notes: DEMIO GLX: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 99 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 94 ft.lbs. @ 4500 rpm -Weight: 2116 lbs. -Price: 14,560 -Notes: DEMIO GL: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 99 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 94 ft.lbs. @ 4500 rpm -Weight: 2116 lbs. -Price: 13,430 -Notes: DEMIO LX G PACKAGE: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 82 hp @ 6000 rpm -Torque: 80 ft.lbs. @ 4000 rpm -Weight: 2006 lbs. -Price: 10,530 -Notes: RX-7 LM EDITION: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 597 hp @ 7600 rpm -Torque: 416 ft.lbs. @ 7600 rpm -Weight: 2116 lbs. -Price: 500,000 -Notes: Limited Edition available at dealer only. RX-7 A-Spec LM EDITION: -Drivetrain: Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive -Horsepower: 570 hp @ rpm -Torque: ft.lbs. @ rpm -Weight: 2314 lbs. -Price: n/a -Notes: Prize Car only (UK vs. US) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7.0 - Car Rankings ^^^^^^^^^^^^ In this section we break down the extensive car list to the cars that come out on top, that really shine in their respective catagories. Some of these choices are from a general consensus on the internet, some from official sources, and some of our own choices. NOTE: with the exception of Best Stockcar list, these choices also take into account how well each car can be modded, if possible, and except for Best Power/Weight Ratio no racing models are included. 7.1 - Best RWD car 1. Viper RT/10 2. Viper GTS 3. TVR Cerbera 4. Supra RZ 5. Acura NSX 7.2 - Best FWD car 1. Mitsubishi Eclipse GT 2. Honda Civic 3-Door 3. Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R 4. Acura Integra Type-R 5. Toyota Celica SS-II 7.3 - Best 4WD car 1. Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo 2. Nissan R33 Skyline GT-R 3. Subaru Impreza WRX-STi TypeR 4. Toyota Celica GT-Four 5. Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 7.5 - Fastest Car (top speed) A few fully modded cars can hit the highest speeds. Probably the top overall cars are the Mitsubishi GTO MR, '95 Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo, Nissan Skyline GTR and of course, the Toyota Supra RZ. All of these cars can be fully modded well over 900 HP, and can exceed speeds of 260 mph. The current record over the internet is somewhere around 260+ mph. 7.4 - Best Stockcar The Viper RT/10 overall wins here... although it loses slightly to the GTO in the corners, the Viper still runs quicker down the straight, which is why the Mitsubishi still runs pretty good. The TVR Cerbera, surprisingly, keeps up with the Viper down the straights, losing only SLIGHTLY on top end--it is much harder to handle in the corner, but with good experience in power sliding it can be handled pretty good. The Stingray just has to be in this list--although it almost ALWAYS requires real power sliding to take the corners, it has more than enough power down the straights (but it also loses to the Viper on top end). Provided the sliding is done properly and the driver is experienced enough, it can hold its own against better handling cars. Other cars like the Nissan Skyline, Acura NSX and both other Corvettes should probably be included in this list as well. 7.5 - Best Power/Weight Ratio TVR Cerbera LM holds onto this spot without a doubt, pumping out a great 581 horsepower while also tipping the scales an amazingly low 1984 pounds! For the most part, any of the other Limited Editions also come high in this category (eg. GTO LM, RX-7 A-Spec LM, etc...) but the TVR Cerbera wins by a long shot still. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8.0 - The Tracks ^^^^^^^^^^ In this section we will brake down each track and giving you some help on the curves too... NOTE: we try here to talk about the corners in a general sense, though our experience with handling them comes a fair bit from RWD cars. In later editions of the Compendium, we may add full sections for each type of car PER corner. 8.1 - High Speed Ring (3.1 km) A great track for 2-player versus, you can spend your time worrying about your opponents and less about the track, because for most of the turns, a little slip up will not cost you the race. Turn 1- Take it flat out, plain and simple. When going into the corner at top speed off of the main straight, just make sure to cut your exit as far to the inside as possible, because at very high speeds your car can drift up toward the wall at the beginning of the next straight. Turn 2- Let off and brake slightly as you enter the turn, again making sure to apex the turn by keeping low to the inside. This will allow you to drift wide to the outside on your exit and gain maximum speed out of the corner. For most cars, you should simply have to let of briefly, then get back on the throttle midway through the corner. Turn 3- Following the short straight, a right hander into the S-Turn. It is crucial that you start on the far left and cut as far to the inside as possible, so that you don't drift to the outside and ruin your entrance to the rest of the S-Turn. If you keep real far to the inside, you can cut left real sharp to hit the inside of Turn 4. If you find yourself drifting to much, try reducing your speed a tad on the inside of this turn, which will allow you a faster exit anyways. Turn 4-If you apex Turn 3 properly and cut it left real sharp, you should come to the inside of this turn with the gas right full already. After the apex, let the car drift to the outside now on your exit to gain maximum speed. Turn 5- a very mild right, keep the accelerator pinned and stay RIGHT to the inside to set up for the final big turn. Turn 6- You will have built up a lot of speed out of Turn 5, so be sure to stay as far to the outside when entering. Brake and bring the car to the bottom of Turn 6 then floor it again at the apex to exit the turn at best speed. NOTE: for many slightly slower cars, simply letting off the gas will do, provided you keep to the bottom of the corner. 8.2 - Trial Mountain (3.979 km) An intricate course through a forest mountain area. It has some neat S-turn corners that take some good driving as well as a few wide drifting turns. Turn 1- Right off the start/finish line. Take it at full throttle, but still be sure to apex it to set up for Turn 2. Turn 2- Again, take this uphill at full speed. Turn 3- You must slide through this tunnel to gain the best exit. Off of Turn 2 you'll still be heading uphill--brake, then hold to the inside and control the slide at full throttle again. Turn 4- Can get you in a lot of trouble if not taken properly, heading you into the rocky wall. You will enter at a fair bit of speed heading downhill, so brake heavily and be VERY sure to pop the nose of the car RIGHT into the inside of this turn and swing the back end out. It is crucial you stay quite far to the inside, to avoid smacking the outside rock face. Watch the throttle for RWD on exit, this turn can loop the car fairly easy. Turn 5- Coming off the short straight, most faster cars will have to let off or brake slightly to head right, avoiding the outside rock face. Faster handling cars (or slower cars) should be able to take this wide open. Be certain to hold far to the inside. Turn 6- You may have to let off slightly after entering the tunnel to take this properly. Hold the car as far to the left as possible, running right near the wall. Turn 7- After the LOOOONG straight you'll come to a big left hander. Brake heavily and nose the car as far to the inside as possible. Slide the car around and bring the car back out at the end of the turn. Turn 8- A small S-turn that can be taken at full speed most of the time. Turn 9- a nice downhill right hander. Brake first and be sure to cut this sharply so you don't nail the "grassy knoll" on the outside. Turn 10- Another wide lefty. Brake at the end of the straight, nose the car to the inside and drift out to the side on the exit. Turn 11- a real fun turn, this is a neat left/right S-turn. You COULD cut straight across the grass of course... but that would slow ya down. To take it "properly", approach the first left wide right and brake heavy. Then soon after entering, cut right and get back on the gas. Another way to take this turn is to hold to the inside, hop over the left ground barrier ONTO the right ground barrier and back onto the straight. The advantage is that you can pretty much stay on the throttle all the way through. However you're car can EASILY get away from you coming off the second barrier hop, and really screw ya up. 8.3 - Grand Valley East (3.025 km) A nice, bright course with long straightaways, peppered with a few sharp corners that allow for some nice exciting passing (eg. turn 4). Turn 1- This begins with a shallow left into the big sweeping right. This is one of the worst corners in the game to screw up on, because if you drift to the outside and hit the dirt, it is VERY difficult to recover. Hold as far as possible to the left as you enter, then brake to very slow speed and nose the car to the inside--it's always better to drift a LOT than it is to slide out into the dirt. After the apex, hit the throttle again and roll it out, drifting it out to the left. Turn 2- This triple-S turn can be taken at full speed. Just make sure to apex properly so you don't slide it into the grass. Turn 3- Be sure to start wide left and cut it sharp for the apex, or you'll be off in the grass. After the exit, hold her to the right to set up for the Turn 4 90 degreeer. Turn 4- An excellent turn for passing if you cut it sharp enough. Take the approach wide to the right, then nose the car toward the wall corner to ensure you don't slide into the dirt on the outside. Also be careful not to get on the gas too early, it is very easy to loop a powerful enough car here, coming in at these speeds on such a sharp turn. Turn 5- A fairly quick right, with a rock face on the outside. May have to let off slightly on your entrance. Keep wide to the inside then cut it sharp to the left to grab the next corner, and avoid heading into the grass. Turn 6- Provided the Turn 5 S-Turn was taken properly, you should enter this wide right. Apex it at full speed to exit back onto the main straight at full speed. 8.4 - Clubman Stage Route 5 (2.466 km) A fun 2-player track, the corners do take some driving, but the race isn't over if you screw up here or there. Excessive speeds are possible thanks to the wide turns and long straights. Turn 1- You should be up to quite a bit of speed off of the start-finish line when you hit this turn. Try to keep a little more to the left down the straight, but not too much or you won't have room to start into the outside of the turn, and will probably hit nose-first into the inside of the tunnel. The second you hit the entrance, bring the car up high then begin your apex. If this is taken properly, you should be able to take the turn at full throttle, perhaps letting off the gas briefly at the entrance. Turn 2- Provided you took the initial tunnel turn well, you should try and exit out to the far left, hugging the wall. As you enter this right turn, do a simple, smooth apex. You should be able to take it at full throttle without getting too loose, however with higher horsepower cars you may have to correct a tad or perhaps let off a little. Turn 3- after exiting turn 2, hug the far right wall. Nose the car into the centre of the turn and brake--a general rule of thumb is to downshift to second here, but of course this will vary depending on your gears (most stock-gearing cars will work in this fashion). After accelerating out of this turn, try and keep fairly far to the right. Turn 4/5- A nice long S-turn that can be taken at full speed with minimal turning. Turn 6- You will enter this at a VERY high speed due to the long straight after the S-turns. Brake heavily, say around 100 mph and slide around, being sure to nose the car fairly far to the inside. Drift back up towards the outside on your exit to set up for the next turn. Turn 7- the final turn can be taken a little faster, but not much. Brake lightly and drift wide to come out on the outside of the corner, exiting on to the straight. Some cars should be able to take it with just letting off the throttle a little. 8.5 - Autumn Ring (2.95 km) An extended version of Autumn Ring Mini, a good mix of long straights, some great S-Turns and good passing opportunities on the sharper turns. Not quite a beginner's course, there are a few places where screwing up can put you right to the back of the pack. Turn 1- A sharp right turn that you hit at a fairly high rate of speed. This is also a very dangerous turn because of the dirt on it's outside, which is very difficult to recover from. Hold as far as possible to the left as you enter, then brake to very slow speed and nose the car to the inside--it's always better to drift a LOT than it is to push out into the dirt. After the apex, hit the throttle again and roll it out, drifting it out to the left. Immediately after recovering, bring the car to the right along the short straight to set up for Turn 2. Turn 2- a fairly gradual left turn leading to the S-Turns. You can often take this at full speed, or simply by letting of the gas briefly. Bring the car to the left on exit to set up for the S-Turns. Turn 3/4/5- This entire Triple-S turn can be taken at full speed, apexing the corners. Exit Turn 7 to the left to set up for the final turn. Turn 6- When driving slower or lower horsepower cars, you can usually take this at full throttle. Faster cars may have to throttle down slightly to avoid popping into the grass. This will exit back out to the main straight. Turn 7- a very fast hairpin with dirt on the outside that can loop you quickly. Keep the speed down and nose the car in to the red/white barrier, then drift wide... after which, make sure to bring it to the right to set up for turn 8. Turn 8- Brake lightly and crank the wheel all the way--you probably won't slide much, but make sure to keep your speed down so you don't drift up into the grass. This then forms into a big long gradual left turn that can be taken with full throttle Turn 9- After a brief downhill coming off of Turn 8, you'll pass under a bridge and hit a sharp left turn. The turn is fairly wide, but you can still drift and hit the grass or dirt on the outside. Brake sternly coming out from under the bridge, then try to hug the inside, exiting wide when you come back out onto the short shoot. Turn 10/11/12- after the short straight following Turn 9 comes a sharp uphill left that can be taken at full speed by apexing. Apexing is indeed crucial, because IMMEDIATELY after the apex you must nose the car to the right into Turn 11. If you don't turn off of Turn 10 sharp enough, you'll smack the outside barrier. You should be able to take both corners at full throttle with the apexing, them let off (or brake slightly) going into Turn 12 to prevent hitting the grass on its outside, exiting onto the next short straight. Turn 13- A fairly sharp right-hander that can leave you in the grass in most cases at full throttle. Either drift through it, or let off briefly to avoid sliding too far outside. Turn 14- the final exit onto the main straight. Take at full throttle. 8.6 - Deep Forest (3.58 km) Another mixture of high-speed straights and a few good turns. Great passing opportunities exist in Turns 1 and 4/5. Turn 1- entering at high speed, this is a pretty sharp left hander. Brake heavily exiting the straight and bring the nose right to the inside, but watch the throttle on high horsepower RWD cars... it is easy to get really loose on exit with this turn. Turn 2/3- easy sweeping turns after the short uphill... take at full speed. Turn 4/5- a small downhill left that turns suddenly into a sharp right. Enter the left far to its inside and brake generously, then cut the apex of Turn 5, running almost on the inside grass, then throttle back out. Turn 6- after running through the tunnel, this is a fairly gradual right- hander that can usually be taken at full throttle, but be ready to get off the gas briefly if you drift towards the grass. Turn 7- after exiting the second tunnel, a fairly gradual left-hander that can be taken at full speed, slightly uphill. Turn 8- after the uphill, a bairly noticable right heading into a long sweeping left. May have to let off the gas slightly as you enter the left. Try to exit on the outside. Turn 9- One of the more devious turns in the game that can take you by surprise. Start on the outside then apex the corner, coming down to hug the walkway on the inside of the turn. Try very hard to stay as far to the left throughout the whole turn--exiting even the slightest bit wide will usually send you into the right-side rock face entering the uphill straight. Turn 10- The long upwill straight finally exits onto a fairly gradual left turn. Let off the throttle briefly and keep to the inside to avoid running onto the grass on the right. Turn 11- Small lefthander that heads back downhill. Take at full speed. Turn 12- the final turn that heads uphill back onto the main straight. Most of the time, provided you start your apex as SOON AS POSSIBLE, you can take this at full throttle. 8.7 - Special Stage R5 (3.776 km) tigeraid's personal favorite track. This is an excellent mix of pure speed and intricate cornering, set in a beautiful night background. Good passing opportunities arise in turn 3 and the wide turn 6 hairpin. Turn 1- You should be up to quite a bit of speed off of the start-finish line when you hit this turn. Try to keep a little more to the right down the straight, but not too much or you won't have room to start into the outside of the turn, and will probably hit nose-first into the inside of the tunnel. The second you hit the entrance, bring the car up high then begin your apex. If this is taken properly, you should be able to take the turn at full throttle, perhaps peppering the gas now and then. Turn 2- Provided you took the initial tunnel turn well, you should try and exit out to the far left, hugging the wall. As you enter this right turn, do a simple, smooth apex. You should be able to take it at full throttle without getting too loose, however with higher horsepower cars you may have to correct a tad. Turn 3- after exiting turn 2, hug the far right wall. Nose the car into the centre of the turn and brake--a general rule of thumb is to downshift to second here, but of course this will vary depending on your gears (most stock-gearing cars will work in this fashion). After accelerating out of this turn, try and keep fairly far to the right. Turn 4/5- A nice long S-turn that can be taken at full speed with minimal turning. Turn 6- the track now exits from Clubman Stage R5 and enters to the rest of Special Stage R5. This is a big downhill right--brake a little and keep to the inside, possibly sliding the back end out a bit. Be ready to yank 'er back to the left to avoid hitting the wall on your exit to the straight. Turn 7- Arguably the hardest hairpin in the game, you can take it one of two ways. Either slow to as low as 40-50 mph and turn quickly, or brake from the straight and slide 'er around, peppering the gas lightly so not to induce too much spin from the rear tires (assuming a RWD car of course). The big problem that 4WD and RWD cars have in this turn is oversteering on the way OUT. This happens simply by getting on the gas too early--as said before, peppering the gas and keeping the revs up (crucial in turbo engines of course) can make a fast power slide possible, but it can get really scary. Cars such as the Viper RT/10 are EXCELLENT for this due to their wide stance and big tires. Turn 7- a nice shallow right that can be taken full throttle out of the hairpin. Turn 8- another turn that should be taken at full speed, provided you take it fully apexed. Turn 9- after the long straight you'll empty into a hard right then into the S-Turns. Brake heavily and nose the car in to the right as far as possible-- then get ready to cut left quickly. Turn 10/11- The deadly S-Turn is particularily dangerous because the outside of the 2nd turn has a small block at the beginning of the wall, which can stop you dead in your tracks. Keep your speed low and cut far to the left entering the first turn, then hit the brakes again and slip it to the right. Above all else, watch your speed. Turn 12- a BIG sweeping right, it can be taken at full speed, just keep the throttle down every so often so you don't drift up to far. You will empty out onto the Start/Finish straight. 8.8 - Grand Valley (4.96 km) An extra-long version of Grand Valley East, this is a very difficult course with a few deadly turns that can leave you at the back of the pack with one slip-up. Note however that these turns can also be used to wipe out the competition ;). Turn 1- This begins with a shallow left into the big sharp right. This is one of the worst corners in the game to screw up on, because if you drift to the outside and hit the dirt, it is VERY difficult to recover. Hold as far as possible to the left as you enter, then brake to very slow speed and nose the car to the inside--it's always better to drift a LOT than it is to slide out into the dirt. After the apex, hit the throttle again and roll it out, drifting it out to the left. Turn 2- A gradual left turn. Take at full throttle. Turn 3/4- an uphill S-Turn. Gradual, it can also be taken at full throttle. Be especially careful of your exit from turn 4 using high-power cars with stiff suspension, it's quite rough. Turn 5- Similar to the first turn, this is a very sharp right hander with dirt on the outside. Keep the car far too the left, brake heavily on the straight and nose the car right to the inside. Watch your throttle on the exit, it's very easy to give it too much gas here and loop it. Turn 6- After a short straight, a long sweeping left. Let off the throttle briefly in the middle part of the corner to bring the car further to the inside and set up for Turn 7. Turn 7- A sharp right hander, let off briefly exiting Turn 6 (and in some cases, tap the brake lightly), then get back on the gas early and drift around it to set up for the next turn. Turn 8- An excellent turn for passing if you cut it sharp enough. Take the approach wide to the right, then nose the car toward the wall corner to ensure you don't slide into the dirt on the outside. Also be careful not to get on the gas too early, it is very easy to loop a powerful enough car here coming in at these speeds on such a sharp turn. Turn 9- After exiting the tunnel the short straight leads to a sweeping left turn. Let off the gas briefly to settle into the corner, then get back on it mid-way through and bring it back. Turn 10- a long sweeping right that exits out onto the bridge. You will enter at full throttle, but let off briefly a little from the exit of the tunnel to prevent drifting to the outside grass on exit. Turn 11- after the LONG straightaway on the bridge, you'll enter a long sweeping right. Enter at full throttle, then let off until the car starts to turn in the corner. Then get back on the grass and keep the car cranked to the right. No braking is required because of how wide the turn is. Turn 12/13- after the straight exiting Turn 11, you'll come to a left/right S-Turn. Brake heavily and nose the car far inside to the left, then crank it to the right to apex Turn 13. Even with apexing, you usually have to get on the brakes again as you begin to enter Turn 13. Most cars should be in 2nd or even 1st gear after entering Turn 12. Turn 14- a long gradual straightaway curving into a gradual left. Take all at full throttle. Turn 15- the final corner exiting onto the main straight, most cars can take it at full speed, but you may have to let of briefly if you find yourself drifting. 8.9 - Special Stage R11 (4.894 km) Largely considered the most difficult course in the game, another of tigeraid's favorites. SS R11 is full of many intricate S-Turns and quite a few high-speed sharp corners... A true grasp of proper braking is a neccesity on this track if you intend to get around without smacking all of the walls. And of course, it also contains the deadly Turn 9/10, which can make short work of any driver within traffic. A real rush once you get through the course unscathed, however ;). Turn 1- you will enter at a high rate of speed off of the main straight, but it is sweeping enough that you can take this at full speed. Be certain to exit as far to the outside as possible. Turn 2- a heavy 90-degree right turn. Brake heavily coming off of turn 1 and slide the car around the turn, apexing as soon as possible. Ideally, you really should be started into the slide while still on the small straight, allowing you slide the whole car around the turn. Turn 3/4- a left/right S-Turn, it can usually be taken at full speed. If you notice yourself drifting out a little exiting turn 4, let off the gas briefly to avoid smacking the guardrail. Turn 5- another sharp right turn, you carry a fair bit of speed entering and often you may exit way too loose, so keep off the gas when driving a high horsepower RWD car. Turn 6- a perfect 90-degree left turn, enter it wide enough and you should only have to let off the gas briefly. Turn 7- a big right hand hairpin, hug left and brake heavily, then nose the car deep to the inside. It can be difficult to control high horses coming out of this corner too, so be careful not to give it too much throttle on exit. Turn 8- a sweeping left, can be taken at full speed. However the end of this turn is a hard left, be sure to brake fairly hard and slide it around. Turn 9/10- a square-shaped turn, it can be taken at full speed but it is VERY easy to clip the corner of the wall on entrance OR exit, even if you're a bit off--and no matter how hard you hit, it will bring you almost to a dead stop, or spinning you out. If you have to, slide like crazy around it--you may lose a fair bit of speed but it's a lot better than hitting that wall. Turn 11- off of the square turn, a gradual left uphill curve... take it at full speed. Turn 12/13- Turn 11 will empty you onto a short shoot, then into a FAST right/left S-Turn. Brake heavily and nose the car to the right for an apex EARLY... provided you end up on the right through Turn 12, you can take Turn 13 with minimal throttle and sweep it easily. Turn 14- after a small straight comes a sweeping left-hander. You should be able to take this with no braking, just let off the throttle and apex it properly. Watch the throttle on exit. Turn 15- After a small uphill through a closed intersection, you'll enter a lighted tunnel. Hug a fair bit to the left on entrance, then let off AS you enter the tunnel. Brake and let the car drift high briefly, then tap the gas to bring the nose into the inside. Then drift the car around the the corner, peppering the gas as neccesary. Turn 16- A square-shaped turn after a very short straight exiting the tunnel. Hold to the right and brake briefly, then get back on the gas mid-way through the corner, and drift through the exit. Turn 17- After a small straight, you'll come to a big right-hand hairpin. This hairpin is KILLER for spin-outs, it's very easy to give it too much throttle. Brake heavily on the outside coming off the straight and nose the car in. Pepper the gas but be VERY careful with it. Turn 18/19- Another S-Turn coming off a long straight after the hairpin. Hold far to the left and brake heavily coming off the straight. Nose the car FAR to the inside of Turn 18 while staying off the throttle, then nail the throttle and drift through the apex of Turn 19. Turn 20- The final turn is a gradual uphill right exiting onto the main straight. Can be taken at full throttle, letting off briefly if you drift upward. 8.10 - Autumn Ring Mini A tiny version of Autumn ring, it contains one hairpin that requires some skill, but otherwise just a small, fun track. Excellent 2-player track. Turn 1- a very fast hairpin with dirt on the outside that can loop you quickly. Keep the speed down and nose the car in to the red/white barrier, then drift wide... after which, make sure to bring it to the right to set up for turn 2. Turn 2- Brake lightly and crank the wheel all the way--you probably won't slide much, but make sure to keep your speed down so you don't drift up into the grass. Turn 3- Immediately after exiting turn 2 you will come to a small straight, then a sharp uphill right. Brake generously and start the turn wide to avoid hitting the grass. Exit the turn on the far left to set up for 4. Turn 4- VERY sharp downhill right, often catches people by surprise because it is initially kinda hard to see. Brake heavily and nose the car into the curve--there's a very good chance that you'll slide, no matter what car you drive. If you understeer for this turn, you'll hit grass AND wall. Turn 5/6/7- This entire Triple-S turn can be taken at full speed, apexing the corners. Exit Turn 7 to the left to set up for the final turn. Turn 8- When driving slower or lower horsepower cars, you can usually take this at full throttle. Faster cars may have to throttle down slightly to avoid popping into the grass. This will exit back out to the main straight. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9.0 - Parts ^^^^^ Now we'll take a look at what modding your car is all about, and how each modification affects your overall performance. 9.0 - Exhaust System Sports- works well with turbo-powered engines. When used with Naturally Aspirated engines, low-end torque drops a tad, but torque at higher RPMs is improved. Semi-Racing- Competition air intake with Polyurethane filter, along with low-friction exhaust. This system is best suited to produce more power at higher RPM, thus it works well with high-end turbo engines. Racing- Racing air funnel with a higher intake efficiency, and a straight-pipe and muffler design best suited to racing engines running at high RPM. Unlike the other systems, the full racing filter/exhaust drastically reduces low-end torque. RPMs will crawl very slow before reaching higher levels. This system is best used with high-output turbo engines. However, this exhaust/filter combined with lag caused by these turbo systems makes it extremely important that the engine specs and especially gear ratios are set to compensate. 9.1 - Brake System Sports Brake Pads- a definite must on all cars. These carbon-metallic pads provide stable grip and also more braking power overall. Balance Controller- also a must. This installs a proportioning valve in the brake lines, so that you can adjust the amount of braking power in both the front and rear brakes. Increasing back brakes causes oversteer as the back wheels lock up, and alternately a front brake increase causes understeering. 9.2 - Engine Upgrades ROM Tuning- this computer chip revises the programming of the engine performance. This will adjust the air/fuel charge to the engine according to its needs, as well as keeping proper ignition timing. Overall the ROM gives you a few more horsepower through these adjustments, and all-around improves the performance and responsiveness of your engine. This chip is a logical step to go along with exhaust/filter upgrade to make your engine run better. Port Polishing- This is a grinding and polishing process for the intake manifold, to improve air flow and engine response. Horsepower increase is small, but Port Polishing compliments naturally aspirated engines very well. Engine Balancing- Balancing and blueprinting of the engine involves measuring all parts of the bottom end to spec (i.e. pistons, connecting rods) and installing a fully balanced, strengthened and lighter crankshaft. This increases overall power in the bottom end and allows for higher revving. Should be used before fully modding the top end. Overboring- Increasing Displacement means boring out the cylinder walls to increase their diameter, and crank and connecting rods are modified to increase the stroke of the pistons. This increases Torque at all points of the RPM range. Naturally Aspirated Tuning 1- Compression ratio is increased, along with adjustment of valve and ignition timing, and replacement of the exhaust headers. This NA Tuning increases top-end power while maintaining torque at low RPM. Naturally Aspirated Tuning 2- Heads are reformed and compression is again increased. High compression valve springs and high-lift racing cam are also added, giving much higher horsepower output. Power at high RPM is SIGNIFICANTLY increased, but sacrifices some low-end torque. Naturally Aspirated Tuning 3- Weight reduction through use of lighter, higher-strength material in the valve train, pistons, cam and crankshaft reduces frictional horsepower. The Cam's lift and duration is increased again to very high proportions, giving great power output at high RPM. Due to the cam, timing and compression characteristics, pretty much the entire power band is at mid to high RPM, so keep the revs up! 9.3 - Transmission Upgrades Close Ratio Gear Box- This replaces the normal transmission assembly, giving closer gear ratios throughout each gear. This allows you to keep the revs up and generate better horsepower even when downshifting for corners. Quite good for Naturally Aspirated Engines. High Ratio Gear Box- ratios are now even closer than the Close Ratio Gear Box, best for cars with a narrow power band--thus, constant shifting at these close ratios is required, which may give problems when running high torque engines. Racing Gear Box- Each gear is replaced with gears designed specifically for racing. Every gear can be adjusted with precision to aid the car gain top end speed (on longer, faster tracks i.e. High Speed Ring), or acceleration (Autumn Ring Mini). 9.4 - Turbo Chargers Cars that can be turbo charged SHOULD be, but note however that you shouldn't neccesarily go right out and buy a level 4 with intercooler... The more Turbo Boost you have, the more Turbo LAG you have. Turbo Lag is the term used for the sluggish lag a turbo charger creates a low RPM. When driving a car with Significant Turbo Boost, you have to keep the RPMs pretty high when starting from the line, to prevent UNBELIEVABLY slow acceleration. In addition, if you screw up and spin, out or go in the dirt or grass, during a race while running lots of boost, it will take you forever to get back up to speed. Thus, buying a Level 1 Turbo Charger is an excellent mod for big horsepower, but does not have much turbo lag. A Level 2 Turbo Charger has a bit of lagged acceleration, but mid-range and top end speed is increased substantially. The Level 3 kit is designed for 0-400 m acceleration, so mid-range power is high. Again though, acceleration is sluggish from low RPM. The Level 4 is all-out high RPM power, perfect for races like the High-Speed Challenge. INTERCOOLER: always buy the Sports Intercooler for sure, as it reduces the temperature of the of air running through the turbo charger. The Racing Intercooler provides even more horsepower, cooling the intake air at the same capacity of the Turbo itself. However this heavy-duty intercooler also decreases engine response, again making acceleration sluggish at low RPM. For this reason it is best suited for high-end Turbo and top speed. 9.5 - Suspension Upgrades Sports Suspension allows for minor adjustment of handling characteristics, having three settings for the both front and rear shocks and the ability to set camber. The Semi-Racing kit allows for harder adjustment of the shocks (5 settings) and springs, as well as ride height and camber. The full Racing Support is by far the best, allowing full suspension adjustment. This includes shocks, springs, ride height and camber that can be adjusted to their full capabilities. One of the first items to buy for sure. 9.6 - Tire Upgrade The softer the tire, the easier it will wear under pressure. Alternately, softer tires provide better grip in the corners, and more traction allowing the power to transfer better to the ground. Generally on ANY car, you want to run Soft/Soft tires to provide maximum traction and power. However when running the endurance races or longer races where tire wear becomes a factor, you have to consider putting hard tires on the NON- drive wheels, to allow you to stay out of the pits longer. Thus, for RWD cars you may want to run Hard/Soft, and opposite for FWD cars. 4WD cars are a tossup of course ;). 9.7 - Other (Weight Reduction, Race Mod) Weight reduction should always be performed on your car (sequentially as well), because this will increase not only your speed, but also improve handling ability and decrease tire wear. Full race modding basically means turning your street car into a full-fledged racer. You get a brand-new paint job and added lettering and decaling with sponsorship--but it's not just looks ;). Full weight reduction is applied, as well as improvements in tread depth and accomodation for larger tires. To top it all off, aerodynamic improvements are made to the body and a full wing and front air dam are added, allowing you to adjust downforce on both ends of the car. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10.0 - Car Setup (Simulation Mode) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Here we'll take a look at setting up your car for optimal performance. 10.1 - Springs This setting adjusts the stiffness of the springs in the front and rear suspension. Stiffer springs support weight transfer and body roll much better and make the ride much more responsive. However, stiff springs can cause the car to become unstable over rough surfaces. If you have really stiff suspension when you go off a jump, for example, you may have trouble keeping the car straight as you land. General Tip: since weight is transferred to the front of the car when entering a corner, the general idea is to keep the front suspension much stiffer than the rear. If the rear suspension is softer it will also increase traction (not applicable with FWD). Hence it is one of the best ways to deal with tightening or loosening up the car--if the car is understeering in the corner, drop the stiffness of the front springs so the weight falls more heavily on it. Alternately, setting the front suspension softer is often better on FWD cars to increase traction on the drive wheels. SUMMARY: RWD -> Rear springs fairly lower than front springs FWD -> Front Springs fairly lower than rear springs 4WD -> varies, usually pretty neutral, experiment for each car. 10.2 - Ride Height Ride Height is the measurement from the bottom of the back and front bumpers to the ground, given a flat service. The lower the car's centre of gravity sits, the better it accepts weight transfer, thereby reducing body roll. This makes for a much stiffer, smoother transfer through the corner and better stability under braking. However if the ride height is too low, the car will bottom out due to the suspension's stroke being shortened. This setting goes hand in hand with Spring Ratio and dampening level. SUMMARY: RWD -> Rear a little lower than the front FWD -> Front a little lower than the rear 4WD -> varies, usually pretty neutral, experiment for each car. 10.3 - Dampers This increases or decreases the dampening ratio of the shock absorbers. If the shocks are too soft, the car will handle sluggishly entering and exiting the corners. If the damper is to hard, it will make the car unstable going over bumps, similar to stiff springs. General Tip: again, softening is required on the rear of the car, more than the front. The front should be stiff to compensate for the weight transfer, but not too much--it will make the car difficult to handle on uneven surfaces, as well as making it difficult to turn coming out of corner exits. If the ass-end is hopping around too much and losing traction, decrease the rear dampening value, for example. Whenever your car is unstable, the Dampening level should be your first adjustment. SUMMARY: for all types, generally keep both values low, with the rear end slightly lower than the front. 10.4 - Camber Camber is the term used to describe the wheel's angle in relation to the ground, given a flat surface. Zero (degrees) camber means the wheel is totally perpendicular to the ground surface. If the wheel is cambered negatively, it is tilted inwards, so that the top of the wheel is further into the car. When the weight transfers to the outside of the car in the corner, a wheel with Zero camber will actually lean outward (positive camber) so that it rides up onto the sidewall of the tire. This is known as "plowing" or "rolling". In real life racing, the worst problem with plowing is that it wears the outside and sidewall of the tire, in extreme cases even tearing chunks out of the rubber. In addition, you will lose a fair bit of handling in the corner. Most often, the outside front tire will push, causing an understeering condition due to its loss of traction. However, if the wheel is cambered negatively a few degrees, it will return to Zero camber during weight transfer, because all of the weight is leaning it outward. So cambering allows the tire to return to a perpendicular position and gain its maximum traction. NOTE: loss of traction due to tire plowing also creates a more serious problem; braking power is significantly reduced, since the contact patch of the rubber that is braking is lessened. This occurs if the tire plows OR if the tire has too MUCH camber. -Outside Right Wheel- | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / ------------- ------------- ------------- Zero Camber Negative Camber Positive Camber General Tip: when a wheel is cambered, it will sit on that angle down the straightaway. Therefore, a RWD car should camber the Front wheels a fair bit to help in the corners, but you should keep the rear wheel camber minimal so that you do not lose traction down the straight. Alternately, you don't want much camber on the front wheels of a FWD car, but you will need a bit since understeer is a big problem with FWD. Treat 4WD as you would RWD, so that you can keep speed down the straight but not sacrifice handling. SUMMARY: RWD -> Plenty of camber on the front, experiment for your personal style. Keep rear camber quite low to prevent traction loss. FWD -> very little front camber to prevent traction loss, plenty of camber for the rear, experiment for your personal style... 4WD -> usually a little camber on both, experiment for each car. 10.5 - Stabilizers Stabilizers, often referred to as anti-roll bars, do just as the name suggests--compensate for body roll. The three choices (soft, medium, hard) really depend on driving style more than anything else. These allow you to compensate for straight-line weight transfer which, when used with stiff suspension, gives you the ability to account for weight transfer forward AND to the outside during cornering. Like most suspensions settings, too hard a setting will cause instability over rought surfaces--if the anti-roll bar is too stiff, it will transfer too much weight to the opposing wheel and cause it to bounce around. After setting the suspension, test each stabilizer to choose which one you like the best. SUMMARY: Rear bar should be fairly high, front depends on your style 10.6 - Brake Setup (ABS brake levels) In my opinion, probably the most important all-around settings for handling. The Sports Brakes and Balance Controller should be your first buys, ESPECIALLY if you're modding a RWD car. The Balance Controller makes use of a proportioning valve to adjust the amount of braking force to rear and front brakes respectively. As most people know, if the back wheels lock up, you slide. The Balance Controller allows you to reduce the amount of back brakes while increasing the amount of front brakes. More front brakes will slow you and allow you to start into your turn much more sharply, while not sliding out by locking up the back wheels. Alternately, too much front brake will cause the car to understeer. General Tip: usually we keep the front brakes a little bit higher than the back, so that sliding is a fair bit more controllable. You want SOME back brakes, so that you have sufficient stopping power. Usually, --------------------------------------------------------------------------- *************************END of DOCUMENT****************************************************