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The 2008 PC Builder's Bible

Find the best parts. Learn to build a rig from scratch and overclock it to kingdom come. PC Gamer shows you how

Words: PC Gamer staff



Though most people upgrade videocards and hard drives on an annual basis, they rarely upgrade their PC case, unless tragedy strikes. The reason is simple: The ATX specification for cases has been around a long time, and it’s still getting the job done. Simply put, there’s usually little reason to upgrade unless you’re looking for more room, more cooling or a more pleasing aesthetic. Indeed, these are the most important characteristics of a case: it must be able to hold all your hardware, and have enough fans to keep everything cool and relatively quiet.

Case fans: All cases include some sort of cooling system, though whether or not the actual fans are inside the case at the time of purchase varies. Regardless, every case has fan mounts, and it’s important to see what size they are prior to purchase. We typically favor large 12cm fans because they spin slowly, and therefore are relatively nice and quiet—and move a lot of air. You’ll want to make sure there’s a fan in the lower front of the case to suck air into the PC, and a nice, big fan in the back to blow it out. Some fans include exhaust fans on the top or side of the case, too, but these aren’t always necessary and can add a lot of unwanted noise.

Form factor: The lion’s share of consumer-level motherboards conform to the ATX specification, so make sure the case in question supports this standard (most do). Once you know it supports ATX, the only big question left is, How big do you want to go? There’s mid-tower cases, which are the size of what most consider to be a “regular” desktop, and there’s full-tower cases, which are much larger and longer than a mid-tower. Though their size makes them unsuitable for frequent transport to LAN parties, full-size towers are a breeze to work in given their cavernous interiors. They can also hold a lot of hardware, which is nice if you have several hard drives, are running SLI, or are thinking about investing in water cooling. For most users, however, a mid-tower will be more than sufficient.

Construction: The materials that make up your prospective case don’t really matter that much. What does impact the equation—and your arms—is the case’s weight. If a case is cumbersome before you put anything into it, imagine its heft once it’s stuffed with optical drives, hard drives, videocards, water-cooling reservoirs, etc. With that said, you’ll only infrequently tote your case, so don’t skimp on quality just to get a lighter case. It’s also important that the outside of your case is durable. If it gets all marked up the second you run your fingernail across it or if it feels flimsy to the touch, move on. What good is a sweet enclosure that turns ugly - or worse, broken - within a few weeks?

Features: Your case’s features can range from the truly useful to the simply cool. A slide-out motherboard tray, for example, is a feature we’re always keen on. Toolless drive bays are also welcome. Then, of course, there’s all the whiz-bangery (or lack thereof) to consider: We’re talking LED fans, built-in gauges, locking systems, etc. Case innovation can be a slippery slope, though, as sometimes these features are actually more irritating than useful (we can’t count the number of poorly implemented screwless PCI holders we’ve broken). A feature doesn’t have to be new to be unique—the simple addition of changeable side panels to a case kicks ass, and there’s nothing overly fancy about replacing a window.

Front-mounted connectors: This feature used to be resigned to USB ports mounted on the front of the case, but with Firewire and eSATA making headway in the market, you’re going to want a case that gives you at least two of these connectors to play with. And one should be eSATA – its speed benefits destroy anything Firewire or USB-based, making it a perfect connection for that external backup drive of yours. Be sure to pay attention to the location of these connectors, as sometimes they’re on the bottom-front of the case, and other cases put them right at the top, which is nice if your PC is resting on the floor.

Aesthetics

Simply put, you don’t want an ugly case. But far be it from us to decide what’s atrocious versus what’s attractive, as everyone has his own personal sense of style. While we personally hate cases that look like they were pulled straight out of the X-Files prop shop, some people are into that sort of thing. Of course, these same people might very well hate a case that’s covered in branding for a particular professional gamer.

PC Gamer’s recommended cases
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20 Comments
Order Comments: Newest First | Oldest First
Cryose  - 1 year 2 months ago 
Cool. Too bad I bought the actual magazine for ten bucks a month ago.
solidsnake_5552000  - 1 year 2 months ago 
excellent article guys. Congratulations!!
anything5767  - 1 year 2 months ago 
Time to remember not to buy the builders bible next time.
Alcyones  - 1 year 2 months ago 
Thanks!

I'm positive this is gonna help me in the future.
Dibbz  - 1 year 2 months ago 
nicely done!
Life  - 1 year 2 months ago 
Very cool
Halo freak22  - 1 year 2 months ago 
aswome totaly sweet
JimMcDosh  - 1 year 2 months ago 
Excellent resource guide indeed. Very nice.

Jiff
www.anonweb.net.tc
hellawaitsyou  - 1 year 2 months ago 
Is there a PDF version of this?
HypherionWing  - 1 year 2 months ago 
I have a good rig using the Antec 900, but i dont particularly reccommend the 900 if your going for a bit of a crazy powerful build, which i unfortunately did.

The space in it is incredibly deceptive, any psu above 600w you have to CRAM everything right in there. ;)
burningmunkey  - 1 year 1 month ago 
I would seriously love to have this on PDF! Is there any way?
HyBriDFuRy  - 1 year 1 month ago 
I use the Intel Core 2 Quad core Q6600, it's still good isn't it? I bought it on newegg because it was a freakin' awesome deal for $200 and I overlocked this from default "2.4ghz" to what I now have "2.8ghz".
invinciblechunk  - 1 year 1 month ago 
Wow, a section on LCD monitors that doesn't even mention input lag! The Dell 2707WFP is one of the worst gaming screens you can possibly pick! Its input lag is over 40ms, and newer firmware revisions are even worse. If you care about games at all, learn about the difference between TN, PVA and IPS panels, and learn about input lag.
Lucretiel  - 1 year 1 month ago 
Tip of my hat to you guys, well done. My one annoyance is that there aren't any posted prices for accessories, just "Gamer with a budget" or "Deep pockets." Useful nonetheless.
adrenaguy  - 1 year 1 month ago 
THANKYOU SO MUCH! this guide is going to be so helpful when i can get the money to build a sweet-ass computer, thanks again GR!
dirt1996  - 1 year 21 days ago 
You can get all the stuff listed above at newegg.com for half the prices listed for EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!
dahudge8  - 1 year 14 days ago 
here's the deal guys. I just downloaded the left 4 dead demo and it runs kind of choppy on my laptop. sometimes there's lag in combat intensive areas and sometimes there's lag when I'm just walking around. I was wondering if a new graphics card would remedy this? if so, can you even put new graphics cards into a laptop? I'd love to get an answer to this before I go by a nvida 8800.
Thanks!
dirt1996  - 1 year 7 days ago 
I was going to build it, but it doesnt help w/ the BIOs or anything else, and if this is the first rig youve built(like me) then this is impossible.
glitchhunterLM4  - 10 months 9 days ago 
i think its good that you teach people how to build a PC... but you should tell them about placing the standoffs...

LINUX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
f2468l  - 8 months 15 days ago 
hi i just bought core 2 duo intel E7300 2.66 on a P5QL ASUS i had assumed alot more speed from this setup or did i goof up when i listned to the vendor feedback please
thanks






















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