GRAN TURISMO 2 COMPENDIUM (Sony Playstation) version 1.6 by John Culbert January 2000 *The Following work is dedicated to Canadian CART racecar driver Greg Moore, who was killed in a crash at Fontana California during the final race of the 1999 season, on October 31st. From a fellow Canadian racedriver, rest in peace Greg, you will be missed. Please indulge me and read the end of the Compendium for my thoughts on this tragedy.* This FAQ and all my others can be accessed at the following sites: Wanna talk? You can contact me on IRC (Internet Relay Chat) as tigeraid, on channels #cars,, #vfhome, #tekken and #capcom. MARGIN CHECK -------------- 1234567890 .......... MONOSPACE, DAMMIT! :) If the dots above line up with the numbers above them, then you can read this document with ease. If they aren't lined up, the margins will be all screwy and generally make this a bitch to read. It was created using Editpad with "Break Lines" on, and as such it is best viewed by this. Should work well in Notepad (if it can be loaded) as well. COPYRIGHT INFORMATION ----------------------- I'm getting sick of the bullshit going around with others stealing FAQ writer's hard work without permission or credit. A certain unmentionable gaming mag stole SFA2 stuff from me a while ago (*ahem*EGM*cough*hack), and on- line people who don't want to put effort into doing this stuff also copied from me (this means you, Davis!!) So here it is: All work and information contained within this document Copyright 1999 John Culbert unless otherwise stated. This FAQ is for private and personal use only. It can only be reproduced electronically, and if placed on a web page or site, may be altered as long as this disclaimer and the above copyright notice appears in full. Any information used from this document, quoted or no, should have this author's name somewhere clearly as acknowledgement. Feel free to distribute between others, but this FAQ is not to be used for profitable/promotional purposes; this includes being used by publishers of magazines, guides, books, etc. or being incorporated into magazines, etc. in ANY way. This document was created by John Culbert . Give credit where it is due. Gran Turismo and Gran Turismo 2 are trademarks (tm) of Sony Computer Entertainment of America Inc. (SCEA) 1999-2000, and developed by Polyphony Digital. All manufacturers, car names, brands and associated imagery are trademarks and/or copryright their respective owners. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. TABLE OF CONTENTS ------------------- 1.0 - Version Updates 2.0 - Introduction 3.0 - News and Frequently Asked Questions 4.0 - The graphics and Sound 5.0 - New Additions to Gran Turismo Gameplay 6.0 - The Tracks - Track Strategies 7.0 - Car Discussion 7.1 - Alfa Romeo 7.2 - Aston Martin 7.3 - Audi 7.4 - BMW 7.5 - Chevrolet 7.6 - Citroen 7.7 - Daihatsu 7.8 - Dodge 7.9 - Fiat 7.10 - Ford/Mercury 7.11 - Honda 7.12 - Jaguar 7.13 - Lancia 7.14 - Lister 7.15 - Lotus 7.16 - Mitsubishi 7.17 - Mazda 7.18 - Nissan 7.19 - Mercedes-Benz 7.20 - Peugeot 7.21 - Plymouth 7.22 - Renault 7.23 - Mini / MG 7.24 - RUF 7.25 - Shelby American 7.26 - Subaru 7.27 - Suzuki 7.28 - Tommy Kaira 7.29 - Toyota 7.30 - TVR 7.31 - Vauxhall 7.32 - Vector 7.33 - Venturi 7.34 - Volkswagon 8.0 - Car Types 8.1 - Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive 8.2 - Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive 8.3 - Mid Engine, Rear Wheel Drive 8.4 - Front Engine, All Wheel Drive 9.0 - Basics of Driving 9.1 - Automatic Transmission 9.2 - Manual Transmission 9.3 - Braking 10.0 - Driving Techniques 10.1 - "Apexing the Turn" -- how to best navigate a corner 10.2 - Sliding through corners 10.3 - Navigating the S-Turn 10.4 - General Tips Cornering with RWD 10.5 - General Tips Cornering with AWD 10.6 - General Tips Cornering with FWD 10.7 - Cornering with traffic 10.8 - Drafting 10.9 - Differences in handling with the Dual Shock 11.0 - Car Rankings/Opinions 11.1 - Best RWD car 11.2 - Best FWD car 11.3 - Best AWD car 11.4 - fastest car (top speed) 11.5 - best stockcar 11.6 - best power/weight ratio 12.0 - Parts 12.1 - Exhaust 12.2 - Brakes 12.3 - Engine 12.4 - Drivetrain 12.5 - Turbochargers 12.6 - Suspensions 12.7 - Tires 12.8 - Others 12.9 - For Professionals 13.0 - Car Setup (Simulation Mode) 14.0 - Simulation Mode Races/Cups 15.0 - Arcade Mode Tips and Cars 16.0 - Around the Web--additions from the readers 17.0 - GAMESHARK CODES 18.0 - Resources, Places to look on the web for GT2 Info 19.0 - Credits/Wrap up 1.0 VERSION UPDATES --------------------- 0.5 - beta version of the Compendium, previewing Gran Turismo 2 0.7 - still in beta. Changed info on GT2 being 2 discs (oops), added more cars to the car list, finished the (hopefully) confirmed tracks and courses list, and some more info on each manufacturer. Also added more resources. 0.8 - Added list of confirmed artists for the Gran Turismo 2 soundtrack. Also some more info on Lister, and some various news updates. 0.9 - added buncha info on some of the manufacturers, as well as little News tidbits. 0.99 - KICK ASS CONFIRMED LIST OF CARS UPDATED! Sony Entertainment released another list of confirmed cars, tons more, including some real suprises--check it out in section 7.0!!!! 0.9999 - info (from all the sources I could possibly find) to try and determine if the game has been delayed past december 7th... see section 2.0 below. 0.9999b - welp december 7/8 is gone and no GT2... but Sony made another statement, and things may be looking up... see section 2.0. 1.0 - The game is out as of December 16-18 in North America!! This update will begin the additions of actual strategy to this Compendium. Similar to my Gran Turismo Compendium, the Gran Turismo 2 Compendium will now feature the basics of driving, course strategies, prizes for each class, and any other information recieved as I progress in the game. Feel free to send me any information you have found and I will consider posting it in this document. NOTE: I WILL BE ADDING GAMESHARK CODES NEXT UPDATE! 1.2 - Confirmed Drag Racing has been removed from Gran Turismo 2 :(.... apparently it ended up being unfinished due to time constraints (if you can believe that crap), and that explains the presence of the Nissan drag cars and the Intrepid Pro Stock... oh well. On a lighter note, little odds and ends, typos and mistakes have been fixed, and GAMESHARK CODES HAVE BEEN ADDED. See section 16.0 for some info on how you can contribute your info to this Compendium! 1.4 - some general typos and mistakes fixed (oops), completed prize car list and added some submissions to section 16.0... let's keep 'em coming people! 1.6 - Revised Prize Car list and Arcade Mode Cars list, updated section 16.0 with reader submissions, and an example car review of my own. Also added Replay Views trick in section 3.0 and Garage Organization Trick in section 14.0. 2.0 INTRODUCTION ------------------ Well, die-hard GT fans like myself (and there are many) already know that Gran Turismo 2 is the greatest racing game of all time. While retaining essentially the same game engine in terms of car physics and control, Sony has added to what we thought was close to a perfect game, to come up with GT2. It plays the same in terms of control, but has now been improved ten-fold. Gran Turismo 2 now offers nearly 600 cars from practically every manufacturer on the planet (and those that aren't here are missing for licencing reasons, which I'll discuss later), as well as special edition, race-spec, and rally cars. And THANKFULLY for us ol' domestic tuners who played the '67 427 Corvette and yearn for more, there are now many classic muscle and sports cars included. Not to mention a plethora of rumored hidden cars that are difficult to aquire, but certainly worth the effort. There's also the addition of several new tracks and courses, included an uphill climb at the legendary Pikes Peak, some dirt rally courses, and including our old favorite tracks from the original GT for over 20 tracks (that's almost 50 including the reverse tracks) in total to choose from. And there's much more... needless to say I, along with every other GT fan, have awaited this game with drooling mouths. Read on racefans, this Compendium will fill you in on all the new goodies so far known about this highly anticipated game as well as detailed racing strategies. 3.0 NEWS AND FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ----------------------------------------- MISSING CARS: There are two very prominent types of cars missing in Gran Turismo 2, and one that's still kind of sketchy. In regards to Porsche and Ferrari, Electronic Arts as exclusive rights on both and therefore they cannot be featured in GT2... Note however that EA does not reserve the rights to RUF, a high performance PORSCHE manufacturer--so Sony managed to find a back door, and RUF Porsches only are featured in Gran Turismo 2 ;). Ferrari appears to be a no go however, though some rumour them as secret cars... The Third refers to the Chevrolet C5 Corvette. The C5 stands for 5th generation Corvette, built from 1997-2000 and featuring the awesome 345 horse (advertised, it's actually higher), all-aluminum LS1 5.7 L (346 cubic inch) V8. While it's not listed on the official cars list for GT2, reports are that it may still be in the game. Apparently, EA also owns the rights to the C5 Corvette, however others have mentioned seeing it in preliminary videos for Gran Turismo 2... >From all accounts, it appears it indeed did not make the cut... maybe next time :/. Oh and BTW, The Mercedes CLK GTR appears to have been removed due to licencing conflicts, again wtih EA... the original beta screen shots showed it was in the game, but has apparently been removed. I suppose I should mention that Lamborghini and Ferrari are not in the game for similar licencing reasons. SPECIAL MODES AND SPECIAL VEHICLES: The new modes of racing in GT2 are, among others: Rally, Hill Climb, GT, and sportscar... they're all pretty self-explanitory. Note: Sony made an official statement saying Drag Racing Mode was not completed and thus it's not in the game, despite the drag racing models. Another early rumor was that SUVs would be included in the game. The rumor has been proved factual, with the existance of the Subaru Forester, Daihatsu Foroza and several others. REPLAY VIEWS TRICK: to access the special views available during replays, press the Circle button (Hand Brake), then press X (Throttle) to cycle through the extra views. They include a copter cam from directly overhead, and cameras from all four corners of the car, facing rear and forward. Cool stuff. SYSTEM INFO: Gran Turismo 2 is TWO discs, arcade and simulation. As well, the NegCon and the various types of Steering Wheel periphirals are compatable, along with the usual digital and analog Playstation controllers. SPONSORSHIPS: Similar to GT1, but with far more, GT2 features several automotive sponsors on the cars and on the courses. Here is a confirmed list: Advan Alitalia Alpine Autobacs BBS BP Brembo Bridgestone Castrol Cibie Denso Dunlop elf Enkei Esso Exxon Falken Fet Gulf Havoline Kenwood Magnetti Marelli Masterfit Michelin Mobile MOMO Motul Movistar Oz Pennzoil Pirelli Potenza Puma Quaker State Rays Red Line Racing Red Line Synthetic Speedline Texaco Total Toyo Tires Trampio Valeo Vodafone Yokohama TUNER LIST: Many popular in-house and aftermarket tuning companies are now featured in Gran Turismo 2. Here is the confirmed list: AMG Audi Sport Fiat Auto Corse Ford Racing HKS Lister Sport Lotus Mazda Speed Mine's Mugen Nismo Ralliart Spoon STi Tom's TRD TVR Racing TWR Racing The Confirmed Modified models in the game are listed under Car List and Discussions. (eg. Mugen under Honda/Acura) 4.0 THE GRAPHICS ------------------ While Gran Turismo completely blew us away with its smooth graphics and attention to detail, it really was only using 75% of the Playstation's hardware capability. Gran Turismo 2, on the other hand is using basically 100% of the Sony platform's abilities, and you can see the even more amazing detail and smoothness in the game, apparent through the screen shots and videos currently available on line (see resources for locations). Attention to detail certainly was paramount this time around. For example, in Gran Turismo the wheels on the car were basically a flat surface meeting with the sidewall of the tire. In Gran Turismo 2, the wheels look quite realistic and have the 3d appearance that shows their depth inward towards the hub. Other details such as badging and logos on the car are now easily made out from all camera angles and during the replays. The cars in the game also have a smoother, more refined look to them, and are also a little more balanced in terms of scaling, meaning they look more true to their real life counterparts in the way of size. Certainly pure eye candy. The sound, needless to say, is pure heaven. Polyphony took the time to carefully record the exhaust notes of every single car in the game from the real thing, at each stage of acceleration, deceleration, revving, etc etc... Nothing like the sound of a 302 smallblock in the 1969 Camaro Z28 in full song, to the tune of 6000 RPM ^_^. 5.0 NEW ADDITIONS TO GRAN TURISMO GAMEPLAY -------------------------------------------- The real major jump in gameplay is in the form of modifying your ride, either for performance or asthetics. For example, a new feature allows you to adjust the Limited Slip Differential... See section 12.0. 6.0 THE TRACKS ---------------- One of the more intriguing features now in GT2 is the variety of tracks and courses available. There are now 24-25 tracks available, much improved over the original. The tracks include uphill tracks such as Pike's Peak, rally courses like Tahiti, some new street and road courses, legendary Grand Prix circuits like Laguna Seca, plus the original tracks from GT1. Tahiti Road Midfield Raceway High Speed Ring Super Speedway Seattle Short Course Rome Short Course Red Rock Valley Speedway Seattle Circuit Rome Circuit Grindelwald Laguna Seca Raceway Apricot Hill Raceway Motorsports Land Trial Mountain Circuit Clubman Stage Route 5 Grand Valley East Grand Valley Speedway Special Stage Route 5 Autumn Ring Test Course Deep Forest Raceway Rome-Night Autumn Ring Mini Ralley Courses: --------------- Tahiti Dirt Road Route 3 Smokey Mountain South Green Forest Roadway Smokey Mountain North Tahiti Maze Pikes Peak Hill Climb Tahiti Dirt Route 3 Reverse Smokey Mountain North Reverse Pikes Peak Downhill 7.0 CAR LIST AND DISCUSSIONS ------------------------------ 7.1 ALFA ROMEO No comments here so far... 1998 145 2.0 Cloverleaf 1998 156 2.0 TS 16V 1998 156 2.5 V6 24V 1998 166 2.0 TS 16V 1998 166 2.5 V6 24V 1998 166 3.0 V6 24V 1998 GTV 2.0 TS 16V 1998 GTV 3.0 V6 24V 1998 Spider 2.0 TS 1998 155 2.0 TS 16V 1995 155 Touring Car 7.2 ASTON MARTIN While the DB7 in GT1 was really not that impressive, it reappears again in GT2... the major addition here is in the form of the Aston Martin Vantage, an incredible concept car that can certainly compete with the Mercedes CLK GTR. The DB6, needless to say, is interesting to drive ;)... DB6 DB7 Volante DB7 Coupe Vantage 7.3 AUDI One that I'm enjoying myself, with the ability to modify these great handling AWD Euro cars... the Quattro in particular. The new S4 sleeper is also included, and can be tuned to 600+ horsepower with the turbo ;). A3 1.8 T Sport A4 Avant 2.8 Quattro S3 S4 TT A4 A4 Touring Car A6 7.4 BMW Both the 5 and 3 series are available here, but unfortunately for you bimmer guys, the M cars didn't make it for some reason :/. They've even got the bigass 4 door 740i and 840ci... gotta wonder what kinda performance this'll have when modified. 323ci Coupe (E46) 323 Coupe (E36) 323ti Compact (E36) 328ci Coupe (E46) 328i Sedan (E46) 320ci 528i Sedan 740i Sedan 840ci Sports 7.5 CHEVROLET Thankfully they have expanded the Chevrolets in this game, featuring some classic muscle along with the current performance cars. While I'm happy the extra Camaros and Vettes are here, ESPECIALLY the spectacular 69 Z28 with the high-revving 302 smallblock, I TRULY hope that they found a way to stick the C5 in here, though no evidence of it has been seen yet. But then AGAIN, the 195 mph ZL1 with its all aluminum 32 valve DOHC 5.7 L V8 pushing almost 410 horsepower is also in, so maybe that'll satisfy me ;). 1997 Camaro Z28 Coupe 1997 Camaro SS 1998 Camaro Z28 Coupe 1996 Camaro Z28 30th Anniversary 1969 Camaro Z28 1996 Corvette Coupe 1996 Corvette Grand Sport 1967 Corvette Stingray 427 1969 Corvette Stingray 427 (darn, it's "only" the L88, not the ZL-1 ;) 1982 Corvette Stingray 1995 Corvette ZR-1 (YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!) 7.6 CITROEN Welp... it's... a Citroen... :) They offer a small selection of front wheel drive, low horsepower cars, as well as a nice rally car. Saxo 1.6I VTS Saxo F2 Kit Car Xantia 3.0I V6 Xsara 1.8I 16V 7.7 DAIHATSU A bunch of small, low horsepower cars, but certainly good bases for mild buildups. 1997 Mira,TX(2WD) 1997 Mira,TX(AWD) 1998 Mira TR(AWD) 1990 Mira,TR-XX 1990 Move,SR-XX(2WD) 1997 Move,SR-XX(AWD) Move, SR-XX 1998 Move Custom, AeroDown Custom 1995 Move,CX 1997 Opti,Club Sports(2WD) 1997 Opti,Club Sports(AWD) 1998 Opti, AeroDown Beex?AWD? 1998 Storia,CX(2WD) 1998 Storia,CX(AWD) 1998 Storia,X4 1998 Terioskid, Aerodown Midget áU, D-type 7.8 DODGE/CHRYSLER Thankfully they've also expanded Dodge to not only include great classics like the Charger and Challenger, but also some of the more common late model cars like the Neon and the Avenger. RWD modified versions of the Avenger are quite popular in high classes of drag racing, and while we'll have to stick with the FWD formula in GT2, it's still capable of some great performance. When the Intrepid is Race modified, it becomes a RWD NHRA Pro Stock dragster! Avenger ES Neon ACR Neon R/T Stratus ES Intrepid ES Viper GTS Viper GTS-R 1998 Viper GTS-R LM 1999 STP TAISAN Viper JGTC Viper RT/10 1971 Charger Challenger Concept Car Phaeton 7.9 FIAT Makes a mean rally car... 1998 500 Sporting 1975 500R 600 (Seicento) Barchetta Coupe 2.0 20V Turbo Punto GT 7.10 FORD While I (and most other car enthusiasts) find the new Mustang really ugly, and in stock form is still not anywhere near the performer as its LS1 competition from Chevy and Pontiac, it's good to see it in GT2, because there's a very large number of Mustang fans who modify these pony cars for handling and speed... I'll be interested to see what all can be done to it. I'm also happy to see the new Cougar in here, IMO the only stylish car currently made by Ford. It's also one of the best handling FWD cars on the planet, albeit an underpowered one... They've just started making Supercharger kits for it in real life, what all will be done to it in GT2? Oh and of course, the GT-40, an absolutely amazing GT racing car from the 60s and early 70s, is also in ;). Note: by the way, race modding the 1999 Taurus SHO will get you a certain Valvoline-sponsored #6 Winston Cup Ford Taurus ;). 1998 Cougar 2.5i 24V 1967 Cougar XR-7 Escort 1.8 Gti Escort RS200 Rally Car 1999 Focus Rally Focus Ghia2.0 Focus Zetec 1.8 Contour Ghia X Ka Mondeo GhiaX Mondeo Touring Car Puma 1.7i DOHC 1998 Mustang GT 1999 Mustang GT 1998 Mustang SVT Cobra 1999 Mustang SVT Cobra 1999 Mustang Saleen SR Widebody 1999 Taurus SHO 1967 GT-40 1967 LM Gulf GT-40 GT90 Concept Car 7.11 HONDA Large variety of cars as usual, now including the new S2000 roadster, and some gay cars like the Beat and Life. Honda fans should be satisfied, I suppose. NSX '90, NSX '92,Type R 1997 NSX 1997 NSX ,Type S 1997 NSX ,Type S Zero 1995 Integra, SiR-G 1995 Integra,Type R 1998 Integra Sir-G 1998 Integra Type R 1995 NSX-R,GT2 LM 1999 Mobil 1 NSX, JGTC 1999 Raybryg NSX, JGTC 1999 Takata NSX, JGTC 1999 Castrol Mugen NSX, JGTC 1991 Prelude Si 1991 Prelude Si VTEC 1996 Prelude SiR 1998 Prelude SiR 1998 Prelude SiR S spec 1996 Prelude Type-S 1996 EK Civic,FERIO Si II 1995 EK Civic,SiR-II 1998 EK Civic,Type R 1993 EG Civic,Si-R II 1993 EG Civic,FERIO Si-R 1998 EK Civic,Ferio Si 1998 EK Civic,SiR 1992 CR-X Del-Sol,VXi 1992 Del-Sol,SiR 1995 Del-Sol,VGi 1995 Del-Sol, SiR CR-X EF-8,Si-R 1996 Accord,Sedan SiR 1996 Accord,Touring Wagon SiR 1997 Accord,SiR-T 1997 Accord,Wagon 2300VTL AWD 1998 Accord ,SiR-T 1998 Accord ,Wagon SiR Accord,Type-R 1998 Z, Turbo 1998 Logo,TS 1997 Life,T type 1998 Life,T type 1991 Beat,Normal 1992 Beat,verF 1994 Beat,verZ 1999 S2000 Mugen: ------ Civic, Type-R Civic FERIO Integra, Type-R Prelude, Type-S ACCORD, SIR-T ACCORD WAGON CR-X delsol Beat CR-X PRO2 S2000 Castrol Mugen Accord Castrol Mugen NSX Spoon: ------ Integra, Type-R Civic, Type-R S2000 7.12 JAGUAR Jaguar's now a part of the Ford family, but still produces some of the most spectacular sports cars on the planet... just a little more reliable and better crafted now ;). XJ Sport 3.2 XJR Vehicle XK180 XK8 Coupe XKR Coupe XJ220 (GT Racer) XJR15 (Racer) 7.13 LANCIA Certain to dominate the Rally courses, Lancia's became popular in video games with Sega Rally and Rally Cross. Delta HF Integrale Delta HF Integrale Evoluzione Delta HF Integrale Rally Car Delta HF Integrale collezione 1985 Delta S4 Stratos (can you say RALLY!?! :) Y 1.2 16V 7.14 LISTER So far only two cars in GT2 (do they even make anything other than the Storm in Real Life?). The Storm is, however, a very impressive car that will likely compete on the high side of factory races in the game. The Storm V12 features a 7.0 Litre V-12 engine producing 592 horsepower, easily capable of speeds over 200 mph, this should be in the same league of competition as the Viper GTS-R, Nissan R390, etc etc... Storm V12 Storm GT 7.15 LOTUS Built as some of the lightest, best handling cars on the planet, it'll be great to see what kinda full blown racecars can be made out of these. 1964 Elan S2 1974 Elan S4 Sprint 1990 Elan S2 Elise Elise 190 Elise 135 Elise GT1 Motorsport Elise Esprit Sport 350 Esprit V8 SE Esprit V8 GT Esprit GT1 Europa 7.16 MITSUBISHI Including the new Legnum, a wide variety of cars throughout. The 3000GT uses its american name, the 3000gt, in Gran Turismo 2 now. 1992 3000GT 1995 3000GT,Twin Turbo 1992 3000GT,SR 1992 3000GT,Twin Turbo 1995 3000GT,MR 1995 3000GT,SR 3000GT,twinturbo 1999 ,SR 1999 ,Twin Turbo MR 1999 3000GT,Twin Turbo 1996 Galant,VR-G Touring 1996 Galant,VR-4 1998 Galant,VR-G 1998 Galant,VR-4 1998 Galant,Super VR4 1997 Eclipse,GT 1994 FTO,GR 1994 FTO,GPX 1997 FTO,GR 1997 FTO,GPX 1997 FTO,GP Version R 1995 Lancer,EvolutionIII GSR 1996 Lancer,EvolutionIV GSR 1994 Lancer,Evolution 1998 Lancer,Evolution V GSR 1998 Lancer,Evolution V RS 1999 Lancer,Evolution VI GSR 1999 Lancer,Evolution VI RS 1998 Lancer,Evolution VI Rally Car 1996 Mirage,ASTI RX 1992 Mirage,CYBORG R 1997 Mirage,ASTI RZ 1998 Mirage,ASTI RX-R 1997 Mirage,CYBORG-ZR 1997 Legnum,ST 1997 Legnum,VR-4 type-S 1998 Legnum,ST 1998 Legnum,VR-4 type-S 1998 Legnum,SUPER VR4 1997 Pajaro Mini,VR-II 1998 Pajero Mini,Sport 1990 Minica,Dangan ZZ 1998 Minica,Pj Teivon Torampio FTO, JGTC 1999 Mine's: ------- Lancer, Evolution V 7.17 MAZDA Again, wide variety of cars, and thankfully includes the 97 RX-7 models and the kickass modified 99 RX-7! Maybe further advancements in the game's modification areas will let the Miata become truly fast on the straights? Eunos Cosmo,13B TYPE-S CCS Eunos Cosmo,20B TYPE-E CCS 1989 Eunos Roadster,Normal 1990 Eunos Roadster,V-Special 1992 Eunos Roadster,R-Special 1993 Eunos Roadster,Normal 1993 Eunos Roadster,V-Special 1993 Eunos Roadster,R-Special Lantis,Coupe 2000 Type-R 1991 FD Enfini RX-7,Type R 1996 FD Enfini RX-7,Type RZ 1996 FD Enfini RX-7,Type RB 1996 FD Enfini RX-7,Touring X 1990 FC Savanna RX-7 ,GT-X 1990 FC Savanna RX-7 ,Enfini III 1997 Demio,GL-X 1997 Demio,GL 1997 Demio,LX G Package 1998 Demio,GL-X Special 1999 Demo,GL-X 1997 RX-7,Type RS 1997 RX-7,Type RZ 1997 RX-7,Type RB 1997 RX-7,RS-R 1998 RX-7,Type RS 1998 RX-7,Type R 1998 RX-7,Type RB Roadster,1.8 RS Roadster,1.8 VS Roadster,1.6 S Package 1983 Savanna RX-7 GT-Turbo (SA22C), 1989 Familia,Interplay 4-door Sedan 1992 Familia (BG),GT-R 1992 Familia (BG),GT-X 1999 Familia,S-Wagon Sport 20 1990 FC Savanna RX-7 ,Cabriolet 1991 AZ-1,Normal 1999 RE Amemiya Matsumoto-Kiyoshi RX-7, JGTC 7.18 NISSAN Now includes the new Silvia models, as well as the classic Z cars (YES!)... I can't wait to modify one of these... just too bad you won't be able to do the best mod for a 280z... an EFI smallblock chevy ;). 1994 Fairlady Z,2by2 Version S 1994 Fairlady Z,2by2 Version S Twin Turbo 1994 Fairlady Z,2seater Version S 1994 Fairlady Z,2seater Version S Twin Turbo 1971 Fairlady 240Z,HS30(240ZG) 1998 Fairlady Z,Version R 2by2 1998 Fairlady Z,Version R 2by2 Twin Turbo 1998 Fairlady Z,Version S 2seater 1998 Fairlady Z,Version S 2seater Twin Turbo 1971 Skyline, GT-R(KPGC10) 1984 Skyline, RS-X TURBO INTERCOOLER(DR30) 1987 Skyline, GTS-R(R31) 1997 Skyline, (4door), GT-R Autech Version 40th Anniversary(R33) 1989 Skyline, GT-R(R32) 1991 Skyline, GT-R(R32) 1993 Skyline, GT-R Vspec(R32) 1994 Skyline, GT-R Vspec II(R32) 1990 Skyline, GT-R NISMO(R32) 1991 Skyline, GTS-t Type M(R32) 1991 Skyline, GTS25 Type S(R32) 1991 Skyline, GTS4(R32) 1996 Skyline, GTS25t Type M(R33) 1995 Skyline, GT-R(R33) 1995 Skyline, GT-R Vspec(R33) 1997 Skyline, GT-R(R33) 1997 Skyline, GT-R Vspec(R33) 1998 Skyline, 25GT TURBO(R34) 1999 Skyline, GT-R(R34) 1999 Skyline, GT-R V-spec(R34) Skyline (DR30),RS-X TURBO Skyline (R31),GTS-R 1996 S14 Silvia,Q's 1996 S14 Silvia,K's 1995 S14 Silvia,Q's 1995 S14 Silvia,K's 1991 S13 Silvia,Q's 2000cc 1991 S13 Silvia,K's 2000cc 1988 S13 Silvia,Q's 1800cc 1988 S13 Silvia,K's 1800cc S15 Silvia,Spec R S15 Silvia,Spec R Aero S15 Silvia,Spec S S15 Silvia,Spec S Aero S14 Silvia,K's Aero SE Sports Package 1990 Primera,2.0Te 1995 Primera,2.0Te 1998 Primera,2.0Te-V 1998 Primera,Wagon 2.0G-V 1995 180SX,Type X 180SX ,Type X 180SX ,Type S 1991 Pulsar,GTI-R 1997 StageA, RS FOUR V 1997 StageA,260 RS Autech Version StageA,RS FOUR V StageA,260 RS Autech Version Pulsar Serier,VZ-R(N1 Version) Pulsar Serier,VZ-R 1997 R390 GT1, Race Car 1997 R390 GT1, Road Car 1998 R390 GT1, Race Car 1998 R390 GT1, Road Car 1998 Sunny,VZ-R 1998 March,SuperTurbo 1997 March,G# 1998 Cube,X Sileighty NISMO 400R NISMO GT-R LM, (Normal R33) NISMO GT-R LM, (Race R33) NISMO GT-R LM, (Race R34) 1997 Zexel Skyline, JGTC 1997 Kure R33, JGTC 1997 300ZX-GTS, JGTC 1999 NISMO Penzzoil GT-R, JGTC 1999 Arta Zexel Skyline, JGTC 1999 Calsonic Skyline, JGTC 1999 Unisia Secs Skyline, JGTC 1999 Zanavi Arta Silvia, JGTC 1999 Daisin Silvia, JGTC Prince, Skyline 280, Type MR HKS: ---- 180SX Drag Racer R33 Drag GT-R Mine's: ------- Skyline (R32.5), GT-R Skyline (R33), GT-R Skyline (R34), GT-R Nismo (specific): ----------------- GT-R, Autech Version Tuned by Nismo Stagea, 260RS Tuned by Nismo Nismo 270R Nismo 400R 7.19 MERCEDES-BENZ Big GT class cars like the CLK GTR are available, as well as the kickass little spitfires like the SLK 230 and Kompressor. The SLK GT-R was removed at the last moment due to licencing conflicts with EA. AMG C43 AMG C55 AMG E55 A160 Avantgarde CLK 200 Sports CLK 320 Sports SLK 230 Kompressor 7.20 PEUGEOT Not much to say here... has their own specific Rally Cars though. 106 1.6 Rallye 106 1.6 S16 206 Gti 306 Gti-6 2.0 (S16) 206 Rally Car 306 S16 306 Rally Car 406 3.0 V6 Coupe 406 Sedan 406 Touring 7.21 PLYMOUTH Lotsa kickass classic musclecars including the ever-popular 'Cuda, and the boxy sleeper Plymouth Belvedere GTX... mmmmm... 1967 Belvedere GTX Pronto Spyder 1971 Road Runner ("Muscle Car" at the dealership) Road Runner Superbird 1970 'Cuda 7.22 RENAULT Prominent Euro manufacturer makes some kickass cars (despite not being very powerful), one even featured in the movie Ronin during one of its famous chase scenes. Laguna V6 Laguna Touring Clio II 16V Clio Sport V6 24V Espace F1 Megane 2.0 16V Coupe 1998 Megane Rally Car 7.23 Mini / MG Mini/MG is owned by the Rover corporation. We got lots tiny cars now :P. Mini 1.3 Mini Cooper 1.3i Mini Cooper 1275S MK1 Mini Monte Carlo MGF 7.24 RUF Wow, is all I can say... we're gonna get to race the likes of the CTR and CTR2, that alone is amazing. Certainly one to watch for. BTR2 BTR964 Turbo R CTR Racing CTR Yellowbird 7.25 SHELBY AMERICAN Not only is the Series I in the game, but I think we can be satisfied alone with the 289 and 427 Cobras, some of the fastest American production sportscars ever built. 1965 Shelby Cobra 289 Roadster 1967 Shelby Cobra 427 Roadster 1966 Mustang GT350 1968 Mustang GT500KR Series 1 Shelby Daytona Coupe 427 7.26 SUBARU Much more variety than GT1, including Pleo, Rex and Impreza Rallier edition... this manufacturer is sure to be highly competitive in the Rally courses, they've won enough championships in real life :P. 1995 Alcyone,SVX Version L 1995 Alcyone,SVX S4 1996 Legacy,Touring Sedan RS 1996 Legacy,Touring Wagon GT-B 1993 Legacy,Touring SPORTS RS 1993 Legac,Touring Wagon GT Impreza,WRX-STi TypeR 1996 Impreza,Sedan WRX 1996 Impreza,Sedan WRX-STi versionIII 1996 Impreza,Wagon WRX 1996 Impreza,Wagon WRX-STi versionIII 1995 Impreza,Sedan WRX-STi versionII 1995 Impreza,Wagon WRX-STi versionII 1994 Impreza,Sedan WRX 1994 Impreza,Wagon WRX 1997 Impreza,WRX Wagon 1997 Impreza,WRX 1997 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.IV TypeR 1997 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.IV Wagon 1997 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.IV 1998 Impreza,WRX Wagon 1998 Impreza,WRX 1998 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.V TypeR 1998 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.V Wagon 1998 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.V 1997 Legacy,Touring GT-B Limited 1997 Forester, S-tb 1998 Impreza,22B Sti Version 1998 Legacy B4,RSK 1998 Legacy Wagon,GT-B 1997 Vivio,RX-R 1997 Vivio,RX-RA 1998 Pleo,RS 1998 Pleo,RM 1990 Rex,Supercharger VX 1969 Subaru 360 Young SS 1999 Impreza Rally 1999 Cusco Subaru Impreza, JGTC 7.27 SUZUKI Gonna include their rally championship winning car, as well as the Alto Works... interesting to see what all can be done to this rather limited manufacturer, over here in North America there's really not that much variety on the street. The Escudo, by the way, is so far considered the fastest car in the game... and just happens to be a rally car as well ;). 1997 Alto Works,RS/Z 1997 Alto Works,SUZUKI SPORTS LIMITED 1998 Alto Works,RS-Z 1990 Alto Works,RS/X 1990 Selvo Mode,SR-FOUR 1995 Cappucino 1997 Wagon R,Turbo RT/S 1997 Wagon R,Column FT 1997 Wagon R,Aero RS 1998 Wagon R,RR 1998 Kei,S Cultus (Hill Climb car) Escudo (Hill Climb car) 7.28 TOMMY KAIRA Tommy Kaira is a high performance builder similar to RUF, in that they construct their own cars. They've constructed high(er) performance versions of cars like the Skyline GT-R, and have a large cult following in Japan with the ZZ Coupe. The import tuners should be going nuts for this one. ZZ-S Coupe ZZ M30 (Tuned R31 Skyline) M30 (Tuned R32 Skyline) Tommy kaira R, (Tuned R33 Skyline) Tommy kaira R, (Tuned R34 Skyline) M13 (Tuned March) 7.29 TOYOTA Expanded even further, now includes the new Altezza and Aristo models, and the latest Celica. 1996 Starlet,Glanza V 1996 Corolla Levin,BZG 1996 Sprinter Trueno,BZG Corona Exiv,200GT 1995 Celica,SS-II 1995 Celica,GT-FOUR 1992 Mark II,Tourer V 1992 Mark II,Tourer S Chaser,Tourer V Chaser,Tourer S 1995 SOARER,2.5GT-T SOARER,2.5GT-T VVT-i 1996 MR2,G-Limited 1996 MR2,GT-S 1995 Supra,SZ-R 1995 Supra,RZ 1996 Supra,SZ-R 1996 Supra,RZ MA70 Supra,GT Turbo Limited JZA70 Supra,TwinTurbo-R AE86 Corolla Levin,GT-Apex AE86 Sprinter Trueno,GT-Apex 1991 Aristo 3.0V Aristo,V300 Aristo,S300 1998 Starlet,Glanza V 1998 MR2,G-Limited 1998 MR2,GT-S Supra,SZ-R Supra,RZ Celica,SS-III 1999Celica, Mecanical Sports Version 1999 Celica, Elegant Sports Version 1997 Prius Caldina,GT-T Corolla Levin(A111),BZR Sprinter Trueno(A111),BZR Starlet(EP71) Starlet(KP61) 1986 MR2 (AW11),1600G-Limited Supercharged MR SPIDER 1983 Celica XX,2800GT 1988 Celica(ST165),GT-FOUR 1991 Celica (ST185),GT-R 1991 Celica (ST185),GT-FOUR 1991 Celica (ST185),GT-FOUR RC Altezza,RS200 Altezza,AS200 Altezza,280T Vitz,F 1997 Corolla WRC 1998 Corolla WRC Lexus, SC400 Lexus, GS400 Lexus, IS200 1999 XYR (Detroit Motorshow Version) 1967 2000GT 1999 MR-S 1997 MR-S (Toyota Motorshow Version) 1998 GT-One, Road Car 1999 GT-One, Road Car 1999 GT-One, Race Car (TS020) Castrol Supra, GT 1999 Castrol Tom's Supra, JGTC 1999 Denso Sard Supra, JGTC 1999 cdma one Cerumo Supra, JGTC 1999 Weds Sport Celica, JGTC 1999 Momo Corse-EApex MR2, JGTC 1999 BP Apex Kraft Torueno, JGTC Tom's: ------ Angel T01 T020, (MR2 Based) T111, (AE111 LEVIN Based) Supra, (JZA80 Based) TRD: ---- TRD 2000GT, (MR2 Based) Chaser, TRD Sports X30 TRD3000GT 7.30 TVR More expanded throughout the Cerbera line, and now includes the Chimera... Fortunately, we also have the new Speed 12 available, the incredibly fast LM car previously seen in Test Drive 5 and 6. Cerbera 4.2 Cerbera 4.5 Cerbera Speed 6 Chimera 4.2 Chimera 4.5 Chimera 5.0 Griffith 500 Griffith Blackpool B340 Speed 12 7.31 VAUXHALL/OPEL One of GM's divisions over in Europe... I still wish Holden was in DAMMIT :/. The Vectra is a 4 door sedan in either SiR trim or Gsi high performance trim, with a 24 valve 2.5 V6. The Tigra is a pissy little version of a Geo Metro with a 116 valve 1.6 litre 4 cylinder. The Astra is a 3 door hatchback style car available in either the Sxi model featuring a 1.6 litre 16 valve 4 cylinder, or Sri high performance option with the 2.0 litre 16 valve powerplant. Vectra GSi 2.5 V6 Vectra Touring 1995 Calibra Touring Tigra 1.6i 1998 Tigra Ice Rally Car Astra Rally Car Astra SRi 2.0i 16v Corsa Sport 1.6i 16v 7.32 VECTOR Truly exotic car manufacturer, some of the fastest cars in the world... Seems these are the only two models available. The M12 is an awesome AWD car, the handling is so tight it's almost silly. M12 Weigert W8 Twin Turbo 7.33 VENTURI "France's answer to Ferrari". The Atlantique is a bit of a handful for a RWD car, but has some great straightaway speed. Atlantique 300 Bi-Turbo Atlantique 400GT 1995 Atlantique 600 LM 7.34 VOLKSWAGON VW has started gaining a serious performance aftermarket in the 90s, so it's a good thing it was included in GT2... unfortunately, we're not getting the Jetta.... Golf IV, GTi Golf IV, 2.3 V5 Golf IV, GTi 1.8T Golf IV, V6 Lupo, 1.4 Beetle, 2.0 (New Model) Polo, 1.4 16V 8.0 CAR TYPES --------------- 8.1 FRONT ENGINE, REAR WHEEL DRIVE The classic drivetrain setup, it's not really that "efficient" or "economical" due to drivetrain losses and interior space (main reason why most manufacturers use FWD in street cars now), but it delivers the best acceleration and often top speed, so the majority of performance cars still use this type. As stated, the advantage to these cars is raw power, acceleration and speed. However the downside to these cars is that they tend to get "loose" in the turns; the back-end of the car wants to slide outward in the corner. This is due to a combination of power delivered to the rear wheels as weight transfer wants to pull the ass of the car outward. This is known as oversteering. Quick reflexes and experience are required to drive these cars, with great skill in "countersteering" (see section 10.2). However when it comes to accelerating out of the corner, and blowing them away down the straightaway, these cars are really fun to drive and the true cars of the masters. Beginner versions of Rear Wheel Drive cars include the Madza Miata. Advanced cars in this class include the TVR Cerbera, Corvette and the ever-popular Dodge Viper. 8.2 FRONT ENGINE, FRONT WHEEL DRIVE These are cars that have the engine located at their front, under the hood as you may normally see. However the thing to note is that the power is delivered to the FRONT WHEELS, not the rear wheels. Most conventional cars these days run FWD. On the one hand, Front Wheel Drive cars are much more efficient because they eliminate most of the drive train (eg. drive shaft), thus reducing frictional horsepower. They are also economical in the minds of manufacturers because the localization of the drivetrain totally to the front allows them to maximize cabin space. On the other hand the engines in FWD cars tend to make a lot less power because they are situated over the front wheels, which puts a strain on suspension and drivetrain components, as well as the issue of weight. The disadvantage of the front wheel drives cars is caused by the delivery of power to the wheels that are steering, as well as the weight of the engine on them. FWD cars tend to have excellent turn-in characteristics because the rear- front weight transfer caused by braking increases traction. However from that point on, a FWD car tends to understeer in the corners because of the inertia of the weight on the front wheels, meaning the front end wants to drift to the outside of the corner. The worst knock against FWD cars however is in the acceleration department. No matter how much horsepower they have, they are not as good as acceleration off the line or out of corners as RWD/AWD cars. This is because weight transfers from the front of the car to the back during acceleration (by Newton's Law, an equal and opposite reaction to the force of acceleration). Thus, the front wheels lose traction. While it's not true that EVERY RWD/AWD car will out- accelerate EVERY FWD car, the fact remains that given similar conditions (like curb weight and horsepower), the RWD/AWD car will win the battle. A FWD car's rear-end tends to stick like glue around the corner, since there is no power spinning the back wheels. A loose condition can only be induced in a FWD car by a) locking the wheels which, while inducing a slide, can slow the car too much and b) by seriously upsetting the chassis, usually by a very fast, sudden jerk of the steering. Remember these techniques well, in case you find your FWD car in a position that requires a quick snap into a line. For this reason, proper apexing of the corner (see section 10.1) is required, especially when driving this kind of car. Also note that, due to this huge weight transfer onto the drive wheels, they will tend to wear quite fast and lose traction--this becomes a serious problem when running longer races. Beginner versions of Front Wheel Drive cars include the Honda Civic and Mazda Demio A-Spec (aka "The Little Shopping Cart That Could"). Advanced cars in this class include the Mitsubishi Eclipse GT. 8.3 FRONT ENGINE, ALL WHEEL DRIVE These are the best of both worlds above, really. All Wheel Drive vehicles are special because power from the engine is delivered to all FOUR wheels. Therefore, these cars have good acceleration, and more importantly they handle GREAT in the corner. They can hold a turn quite well for the same reason the FWD can, because weight transferred during braking applies traction to the front wheels. At the same time, they can accelerate well when weight is transferred to the rear wheels. Thus, the AWD cars tend to be the quickest THROUGH the corner. An AWD car with a lot of inertia heading into a corner will be more likely to understeer, however similar techniques used with the FWD car can be used here to break it into an oversteer, because traction control prevents you from snapping the wheels loose with torque in most cases. Beginner versions of All Wheel Drive cars include the Nissan Pulsar. Advanced cars in this class include the Mitsubishi 3000GT Twin Turbo and the Vector M12. 8.4 MID ENGINE, REAR WHEEL DRIVE These special cases are different from other RWD cars because the engine is mounted midway through the car, instead of at the front. These cars tend to handle the weight transfer into the corner much better, since they do not have the tremendous weight of the engine sitting at the front. This creates a weight distribution of 50/50 (althought some front engine/rwd cars can achieve this), minimizing weight transfer during oversteering OR understeering, creating a very neutral feeling. 8.5 REAR ENGINE, REAR WHEEL DRIVE This is also a somewhat special case that exists with cars like the RUF Porsches. The weight of the engine is situated almost entirely over the rear wheels, creating a rear-biased weight distribution. On the plus side, this makes for absolutely insane acceleration, because front-rear weight transfer PLUS the engine places almost all the car's weight entirely over the drive wheels. This also ensures a very neutral feeling to start into the corner, if not a little bit of understeer due to lack of weight on the front wheels. However, rear Engine cars experience what is sometimes referred to as "snap oversteer". The car will go through the corner very neutral, but if pushed hard enough the centrifugal force of cornering will eventually unload the weight of the engine to the outside of the corner. The problem here is that you've gone from a perfectly neutral cornering condition to a wild oversteer caused by most of the car's weight swinging outward. While this does sound serious, a good driver that has gotten used to this condition can not only correct early enough to maintain good speed, but can also create some wicked 4-wheel drifts ;). 9.0 BASICS OF DRIVING ----------------------- 9.1 - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS Acceleration with an Automatic Transmission is simple--step on the gas ;). Note however that starting from a static position (eg. beginning of race) still requires you to moderate your RPM... This of course also depends on your drive-train type. Generally, if you're running a RWD car, keep the RPM fairly low when the signal to go arrives--if your RPM is too high, you will crawl from the starting line smoking your tires off. Typically you keep RPM at this time around 3000 or so, less depending on your HP or gearing. If you're geared really high towards acceleration, you may want to begin as low as a 1000 RPM or so. You also have to keep turbo-lag in mind... turbo charged cars require you to keep the revs up no matter what, or throttle response will become nill for an agonizing moment. When accelerating with Front Wheel Drive cars, you will rarely spin the tires without serious horsepower. Keep the RPMs up in the high range either way. Same goes for 4WD cars, though you usually get a little smoke out of these. Remember: smoking the tires a little when the green flag drops is not a problem, as long as you get up to speed quick enough. The RPM you start at is something you need to get a feel for, since it varies with every car, but generally 4WD and FWD allow you to basically pin it. 4.2 - MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS Same notes about starting from a green flag, but some words on shifting are needed. For those who don't know, a Manual Transmission will not change gears unless you tell it to, meaning you can start in 1st gear and if you don't shift, the car will redline and eventually stop gaining speed (and if this were real life, you'd over-rev the engine and blow it up too ;). In the long run, a stick is a much better choice as it provides quicker acceleration (since you can shift a little later than an auto would, edging out that last little bit of HP in that gear). A standard gets you through the corner faster too; an automatic with often stay in a certain gear through a corner, and end up accelerating too slowly out of the corner. Downshifting for cornering allows you to accelerate much quicker out of the corners and gives improved response during and coming out of slides (and if you're not careful, can take ya for a loop too ;). Downshifting for a corner also causes the engine to act as a brake as well, aiding you in the slowing process. To properly shift your gears, wait for the tach (tachometer, the gauge on the bottom right of your screen) to reach near redline, then shift up. If you wait too long and bring the RPM right up through redline, you may stop gaining horsepower and lose a bit of acceleration (and again, if this is real life, you'd blow the engine). Sometimes however this helps during cornering, to keep it in a lower gear to prevent heading up into the wall. See section 10. 0 for more info on cornering. So overall, the basic idea is to shift when the needle is entering the red ;). 4.3 BRAKING Whenever I try to teach beginners how to take a corner, the most common mistake they make is braking too late. Braking really should not be used TO corner, rather to slow heading INTO the corner. Oftentimes when you brake during your turn, you will either slide out too much, or understeer and cause your car to drift up to the corner. Braking at high speeds usually results in uncontrollable sliding. My father's a fellow stockcar driver, and his philosophy on cornering is fairly simple: "If the wheels aren't rotating, you have no control", meaning that if the wheels are not rotating because you have applied the brakes, they will follow the intertia and slide in the direction the car is going, frequently towards the outside of the corner. And while threshold braking prevents total wheel lock up, the fact remains that the slower the tire is allowed to move, the less traction it can gain. Thus, brakes should be used ENTERING the corner--I cannot stress this enough. Now, with the tweaking possible in Simulation Mode, allowing you to adjust the strength of your front and back brakes, this can be compensated for somewhat, but the basic idea still remains. This problem with braking is especially evident when driving RWD cars, because of the torque they generate through the corners combined with the weight transferring OFF of the drive wheels from braking. Either you will get very loose and lose control, or you will understeer and not be able to recover in time. Remember, BRAKE WHEN ENTERING THE CORNER, then turn and downshift when needed. 10.0 DRIVING TECHNIQUES ------------------------- First a couple of notes: -OUTSIDE/INSIDE: referring to the "outside" or "inside" of a turn--pretty straight-forward, the "outside" of, say, a left turn would be the right side of the turn; the "inside" of that turn would be the left side. -WEIGHT TRANSFER: when entering a corner in a car in real life, you will notice that your weight will shift to the outside of that corner. This is known as centrifugal force. Ever swing a bucket of water around, and the water stays in the bottom of the bucket even when upside down? That's centrifugal force. The same thing applies to cars entering corners. Throughout the corner the weight of the car will shift to the outside. More specifically during deceleration , the weight will shift from the inside rear of the car to the outside front of the car, because there is still forward inertia from entering the corner. This back to front weight transfer is applied further if braking occurs. Weight transfer is what causes both understeering and oversteering (see below). In addition to the weight transfer caused by centrifugal force and intertia, braking also comes into play. 10.1 "APEXING THE TURN" - HOW TO BEST NAVIGATE THE CORNER Apexing a turn refers to taking the fastest and shortest possible line around the corner. This is usually accomplished by starting on the outside of the turn, diving to the inside, and coming out on the outside again. Thus: ____________________c____ / | | | b___________ In this rather simple example of a | | perfect 90 degree turn, the idea | | is to get from point a to point c, | | but THROUGH b, taking the shortest route | | around the corner. | | Obviously, apexing a corner is easier |a | the bigger, wider and more gradual | | the turn is. Running faster cars, | | especially RWD, may require you to slide | | the back end out when you reach point b | | to prevent from when you reach point b hitting the outside around point c (see 5.2 below). There are other ways to apex a turn, depending of course on the shape of the turn. On a really sharp hairpin or "almost-hairpin" turn, a different path must be chosen: ____________ / \ | \ | \ | \ | b___ \ In this example, the idea is to get | | \ \ from point a to point c, but this | | \ \ time the nose of your car should |a | \ \ already be pointing around to point b. | | \ c \ This can be done by sliding the car | | | | around with a RWD or even 4WD, or | | | | slowing down and taking the turn sharp | | | | enough with a FWD car. Ideally you should end up on the outside of the corner, point c. It is especially important to start this turn far to the outside near point a. If you hug the inside and attempt to turn into point b, often your car will end up nose-first outside the corner (in the grass, dirt or the wall). 10.2 DRIFTING AND SLIDING Sliding or "drifting" is done most often with RWD cars, but also occurs with other drivetrain setups. Sliding the car refers to turning a corner so sharply that you swing the back end of the car out, sliding the back tires around. Sometimes this can be a bad thing but in most cases, it is the best way FOR a car to take a corner, to prevent you from understeering and drifting to the outside of the turn. One must note however, that careful control must be used to ensure that you do not "spin out" or "loop" the car, or you're in big trouble. To slide effectively, it is best to approach the corner and brake EARLY, being sure to point the nose of your car toward the inside part of the corner--if it's a right hand turn, crank the car to the right so that the nose points to the inside of the turn, while applying the brakes. Let off the brakes early so that you do not spin out, or simply slow the car down too much. If all goes well, the back of your car will slide around to the outside of the turn. But you're not done yet; if you just hammer the gas and go, you will either loop it, or smack your rear quarterpanel against an outside wall. You now have to "countersteer" to bring the car back. I may refer to this throughout the Compendium as "counter(ing)", "bringing it out/back" or "correcting". This is when you counteract the affects of a slide by steering into it. For example, if you were to take a hard right turn, the back end of the car would slide out to the left--in order to "correct" this, turn the wheels to the left; this will bring the back end around in the proper direction (hopefully in time :). The amount you have to turn the wheel in correction depends on the severity of the slide and the handling of your specific car. In the case of the 4WD car, the slide is often much easier to correct, as the front wheels will also pull the car's front end outward since they also have power delivered to them. Get used to this quick countersteer, so you do not end up "overcorrecting" and sending the front end careening to the outside of the turn instead. 10.3 NAVIGATING THE S-TURN Navigating an S-Turn requires good timing and expert setup. One must take the first turn while taking into account how he will enter the second one. The basic principle follows the idea of apexing a turn--take the shortest route possible, so less turns are needed. | d| | | \ \ \ \ / / ____________/ / / c / / / | / | b___________/ In this example, the idea again is to | / get from point a to point d, but to take | | the shortest route possible, through b | | and c. In this particular diagram, this |a | is pretty simple, being almost a | | straight line. Now, in extreme cases, the corner at point c may be a much sharper left turn, and thus you must be prepared to start an early slide (or slow and turn early with FWD) AS you come out of your first turn. To do this, simply jerk it quickly in the other direction, remembering to countersteer quickly. In addition, it is often best to apply the brakes briefly around the outside of the center turn (point c as above) to perform this slide, or to otherwise slow you enough that you don't hit the outside of the middle turn (below point d as above). 10.4 - GENERAL TIPS CORNERING WITH RWD When driving a RWD car around a corner, you must always be ready to countersteer--when using a normal D-pad controller, this can often be done by quickly tapping to countersteer. If you simply hold in the outside direction you will overcorrect and be in even bigger trouble. If you find yourself understeering too much, with your nose heading to the outside of the turn, it is possible to throw yourself into a sharper slide, even from a gradual one you may be performing. To do this simply crank it sharper and longer than you did initially. Sometimes you may even have to briefly tap the brakes to get the tires sliding. Worst case scenario, you will smack your ass- end into the outside wall (if any) and be off. This is a good technique to use on corners with outside walls if you find yourself losing a slide, but try not to do it often on open turns unless you're SURE the sharper slide will keep you on the pavement. Hitting the grass can often be worse than spinning out. For cases like this, "peppering" the brakes (tapping them briefly for a short period) and letting off the gas will also work to slow the car down enough, and at the same time not allowing it to understeer too much. The problem with this is that, with RWD cars, this may cause you to slide too much... This will take practice, you need a definite feel for it. 10.5 GENERAL TIPS CORNERING WITH AWD Always remember that VERY quick recoveries from slides are commonplace with AWD, so practice the proper amount of correction needed, to prevent you from overcorrecting. A mistake that plagues beginners became popular first in Sega Rally, which became known as the "pinball effect": players correct too quickly and end up bringing the nose into the outside wall (if any), then try to correct again and bounce of the inside wall, then back out, etc... If you're in an open turn and this happens, chances are you'll just fishtail wildly and loop it anyways. And always remember, you will most often outhandle the other cars in the corner with AWD, so don't be afraid to attempt to pass them on the outside, but of course always be weary of dirty tactics (see section 10.7 ;). 10.6 GENERAL TIPS CORNERING WITH FWD Braking is, in fact, one of your best friends when driving a FWD. It is pretty difficult to slide uncontrollably when braking with a FWD, unless you TRY to do it ;). So, don't be afraid to dive to the inside under heavy braking to pass an opponent, just remember to know the limits so you don't get into a heavy understeering condition. Note that during extreme corners like hairpins, the chassis will be upset enough to induce a fairly minor oversteer, so you still need to be ready to correct if need be. 10.7 CORNERING WITH TRAFFIC >From the door-to-door competitive world of stockcar racing, you can learn many devious techniques for out-DRIVING your other opponents. So, you're a "measly" Toyota Supra with oh, let's say 280 hp. Up ahead of you leading the race is the powerful Dodge Viper GTS, with 460 hp. What to do? You just aren't fast enough! So what... OUTDRIVE 'EM. One of the most common driving rules in the racing business is that passing on the inside is easier. Of course there are advantages to high and low lines, it depends on your driving style and the circumstances. But for the inside line, you take a shorter route around the corner than they do, and also tend to get a better run INTO the corner. But what's even better is a classic short-track technique, commonly referred to as "using" the other car. When you get up on the inside of another car in the corner, DON'T let off the gas and DON'T brake. Let the other car act as your guide, as your "wall", if you will. You can ride them all the way around the corner without letting up and take right off when you come out of the turn. The other car also prevents you from moving to the outside of the corner, and usually keeps your ass-end around the corner too. This is not so easy against experienced human players, as they can fight back--for example, they can let off ever so briefly early in the corner and cause you to fly off ahead of them into the wall, or outside of the turn either way--However this is a VERY easy way to beat the CPU. You will often see the whole field of computer cars check up as they reach the outside of the turn; don't follow their example :). Instead, just plow right into the turn and USE the cars on the outside. Often this can slingshot you from last place to first in one turn. Now note that this "dirty" tactic is kind of unsportsmanlike and should only be used if you're racing against someone that doesn't mind and will just do it back to you in a similar case ;). More strats will be added later. 10.8 DRAFTING Also known as "slip-streaming", this makes use of another car's air resitance to increase your speed. When a car moves, it must push against the air, causing a resistance. The shape of the car can determines its amount of wind resistance, i.e. if it is aerodynamic, more of the air tends to flow easily around the car, then become a direct force against it. The less wind resistance you have on your car, the faster it will go (and alternately, air flow can create downforce on parts of the car to gain more traction, i.e. the rear wing/spoiler, and the front air dam). So, what do you do if you get caught walking in a wind storm? You try and find someplace, perhaps a doorway, where the wind cannot hit you--you're creating a barrier against the wind. Drafting is based on this principle; obviously, if there is an object in front of your car blocking the air, it will greatly decrease the wind resistance on your own car. Thus, in order to draft, you tuck behind another car in front of you, taking the wind resistance off of your car and allowing to accelerate to a greater speed. Simply, once you notice yourself almost running into the back of the car in front, slip off to the side, and your built-up speed will allow you to literally slingshot around the car. This technique is ESPECIALLY important in the Megaspeed Race to get into the lead. This is also an excellent way for slightly slower cars to gain an edge--if you get a great exit off of a corner leading to a longer straight and manage to get behind a slightly faster car for a moment, you can draft it and slip by. NOTE: drafting only works at fairly high speeds, and you of course have to be fairly close behind the car in front for the draft to work. In other words, drafting is important on places like High Speed Ring or the Test Track, but is pretty much non-existant on lower-speed track like Autumn Ring Mini. 10.9 DIFFERENCES IN HANDLING WITH THE DUAL SHOCK The Dual Shock provides analog control. What this allows you to do is moderate the amount of pressure you apply to the controls. This in effect makes it act more like a real steering wheel--if you're coming up on a long, easy curve, you can simply apply a small amount of pressure and take the turn nice and smooth, as you would turning the steering wheel just a little bit in real life. When using the normal D-Pad on an easy curve, you have to tap it repeatedly in short increments. The analog allows you to not only stop this tapping, and thus stop the quick jerks and sliding from the car, but also it may help you shave a couple hundredths of a second of your lap times. We DEFINETELY recommend the Dual Shock controller for Gran Turismo, also because it has the "rumble-pack" addition to it, which creates small vibrations in the controller when you skid the tires, hit other cars or objects, or even accelerate with a hard-running engine. It's not as if you can't PLAY the game without it, it's just a really nice addition to an already great game. 11.0 CAR RANKINGS AND OPINIONS -------------------------------- Added a fair bit later when I get a good idea of it ;). 12.0 PARTS ------------ 12.1 EXHAUST Sports: Replaces the stock air filter with a better flowing element as well as low back-pressure muffler systems. Ideal for turbocharger upgrades and improves top end torque on naturally aspirated engines. Semi-Racing: Higher grade air element with urethane sponge filter, combined with high flow muffler(s). This improves breathing at high RPM ranges, and is especially good on larger turbo engines. Racing: Replaces the air filter with a velocity-stack form and a straight-design exhaust designed for racing cars. Reduces low RPM torque due to lack of backpressure, but allows excellent breathing at high revs. 12.2 BRAKES Sports: stock brake pads are replaced by carbon metallic types to increase stopping power and reduce brake fade. A must on endurance racing cars. Brake Balance Controller: modifies the metering and proportion valves in the brake system to allow for changes in front and rear brake power. See section 13.0 for details. 12.3 ENGINE Computer Chip: this chip changes the ECU's settings to increase power and efficiency. This is done by modifying the air/fuel ratio, ignition timing and other features. Engine Balancing: engine is disassembled and re-assembled. Each part is properly weighed and balanced to specific values, then rebuilt using exact tolerances. The crankshaft is also modified and balanced. As a result of the bottom end rebuild, the engine can now rev higher and thus the rev limiter is also reset. Port and Polish: The cylinder head ports are grounded out to increase total breathing area, as well as rounding off all sharp corners and polished to reduce drag on the A/F charge. Naturally Aspirated Tune-Up Stage 1: adjusts ignition and valve timing, installs thinner head gaskets to boost compression. The exhaust manifold is also swapped for a higher flowing version. These modifications increase total horsepower without sacrificing bottom end torque. Naturally Aspirated Tune-Up Stage 2: higher compression pistons are installed and the heads are shaved slightly. The camshaft(s) is/are swapped for higher lift/duration versions to improve A/F flow into the cylinders. The valve springs are also replaced with stronger coils to aid in revving higher, and the ECU is reset to take affect with these changes. Low end torque drops off slightly but high RPM power improves greatly. Naturally Aspirated Tune-Up Stage 3: Complete rebuild of the engine, including pistons, connecting rods, camshaft(s), valve springs and engine block rebuild for improved strength. This modification is designed to give ultimate performance at high RPM. Displacement Increase: increases the displacement of the engine, providing more torque at all RPM ranges. 12.4 DRIVETRAIN Sport Transmission: brings gear ratios closer together for faster shifting, allowing for better downshifts and keeping the engine in its power band during shifting. This in turn allows you to keep the car at maximum speed during corners. Great for naturally aspirated engines. Semi-Racing Transmission: tightens up the gear ratios even more, ideal for highly-tuned cars with a power band that's not quite broad enough. This is not as beneficial for engines with very wide power bands (e.g. most of the American V8 cars.) Racing Transmission: Replaces each gear, including the final drive gear. This upgrade allows fine tuning of each ratio for maximum power output the drive wheels at all times. Heavy Duty Single Plate Clutch: shifting is more pronounced and instant, reducing slippage. Twin Plate Clutch: dual clutch plates are installed to reduce slippage and improve acceleration. Excellent for high powered, high torque engines. Triple Plate Clutch: three clutch plates are isntalled to boost torque transmission and increase the shifting speed. 2-Way Limited Slip: the limited slip differential gives the drive wheels the ability to rotate at different RPM during cornering, but deliver power both when hitting the straightaway. This modification engages the limited slip feature during both deceleration and acceleration. This will stabilize the vehicle during hard braking and maintain traction during acceleration. See section 13.0 for more info. 1.5-Way Limited Slip: maintains full limited slip during acceleration and reduces it during deceleration to ensure good traction and maintains good turn- in ability during braking. Excellent system for all cars. 1-way Limited Slip: ideal for FWD cars, because it gives the limited slip feature only during acceleration. While turn in ability is maximized during braking, it reduces the stability of the car at the same time. Basically, the car becomes a handful when slowing for a corner, but works well on exits. Full LSD Customization: allows full independant adjustment of the LSD for acceleration and Deceleration. Sports Flywheel: lightweight chromemoly flywheel that allows the engine to rev higher due to reduced rotating mass. This improves acceleration but revs may drop below the powerband without a close ration gearbox in conjunction. Semi-Racing Flywheel: even lighter than the Sports type, allowing for greater revs when matched with a close ratio transmission. Racing Flywheel: super lightweight that drops revs very quickly from top end. This improves acceleration and deceleration as a whole, but again the revs may drop below the powerband unless a close ratio tranny is used. Carbon Driveshaft: lightweight driveshaft made of a carbon composite, reducing rotating mass and thereby increasing acceleration, as well as saving some overall vehicle weight. 12.5 TURBOCHARGERS Stage 1: installs gaskets, oil cooler, high flow oil pump and uses a compact turbocharger to make high RPM horsepower, but still maintains low end torque. This makes for very little turbo lag, so it's excellent for courses with a lot of up and down revs in tight corners. Stage 2: built for high RPM torque and decent bottom end power output. In addition, a turbo computer, new high flow fuel pump, injectors and other components are installed. Stage 3: Built for pure horsepower that can maintain excellent acceleration when combined with a close ratio transmission to keep the engine in the power band. The cam is also replaced to help the turbo flow better into the engine, as well as again replacing the gaskets, fuel pump, oil pump, etc etc... Stage 4: Designed purely for high RPM output, it sacrifices nearly all low end torque. Turbo lag is insane and thus keeping the engine in the power band is crucial. Sports Intercooler: cools the intake air after it's pressurized by the turbo, allowing for better air density. Racing Intercooler: Larger capacity intercooler increases cooling ability but will slightly reduce throttle response. 12.6 SUSPENSION Sports Kit: good all around kit for any track, allows adjustment of front and rear gas shocks to 10 damping levels. Camber angle is also adjustable and ride height is lowered about 1" front and back. Semi-Racing Kit: Gas shocks and springs can be adjusted for strength, as well as very fine ride height adjustments. Camber can also be modified. Full Customization: tuning of all suspension components. Adjustment of damping levels on shocks and springs is allowed, as well as stiffer anti-roll bars (sway bars). Both wheel camber and toe can now be adjusted, and shock bound and rebound are now adjustable as well. 12.7 TIRES Sports Tires: better tires improve grip, allowing for better braking, acceleration and handling. Purchasing these tires allows subsequent tire servicing as long as you continue to run them. Hard Racing Slicks: for racing on paved surfaces, ideal for longer races because they wear much slower. Takes a few laps to warm them up. Medium Racing Slicks: Made of a special compound that gives good balance between traction and durability. Soft Racing Slicks: provides good grip at all times, but not very good for long races as durability is minimal. Super Soft Racing Slicks: provides MAXIMUM grip at the cost of durability. Must beware during prolonged races when traction goes to the wind. Real Life Tires: more precise examples of real life tires, extremely difficult to navigate but provide an ideal simulation. Dirt Racing Tires: designed for traction sliding on gravel and dirt. Available only on certain cars made for rally racing. 12.8 OTHERS Weight Reductions: Removing non-essential components of a car, such as interior, back seat, inner fenders, etc etc... to improve power/weight ratio and braking ability. Race Car Modifications: Upgrades the body to a more aerodynamic shell, including rear wing and front air dam, as well as adding a racecar paint scheme. 12.9 FOR PROFESSIONALS Yaw Control System: allows control of the distribution of torque between the left and right drive wheels. Increasing this setting allows the car to turn faster, but but can increase the likelihood of wheel spin. Active Stability Controller: controls the braking power of all four wheels to stabilize cornering and reduce traction loss. The higher the setting however, the more difficult the car becomes to handle. TCS Controller: adjusts the setting of the Traction Control System, preventing wheelspin by reducing power delivery to the wheel that's losing traction. This improves overall traction but may reduce straightline speed. 13.0 CAR SETUP ---------------- Here we'll take a look at setting up your car for optimal performance. 13.1 - SPRINGS This setting adjusts the stiffness of the springs in the front and rear suspension. Stiffer springs support weight transfer and body roll much better and make the ride much more responsive. However, stiff springs can cause the car to become unstable over rough surfaces. If you have really stiff suspension when you go off a jump, for example, you may have trouble keeping the car straight as you land. 13.2 - RIDE HEIGHT Ride Height is the measurement from the bottom of the back and front bumpers to the ground, given a flat service. The lower the car's centre of gravity sits, the better it accepts weight transfer, thereby reducing body roll. This makes for a much stiffer, smoother transfer through the corner and better stability under braking. However if the ride height is too low, the car will bottom out due to the suspension's stroke being shortened. This setting goes hand in hand with Spring Ratio and dampening level. 13.3 - SHOCKS The higher the bound value, the better the car accepts weight transfer. Conversely, the higher the rebound value, the faster and harder the suspension will unload the weight back to the opposite direction. In general you want a moderate rebound strength to get the car set straight when exiting the corner, while not unsettling the chassis in the other direction. RWD cars in particular should have stiff rebound values on the front wheels to transfer weight back to the rear wheels on acceleration. Bound values for the front wheels on pretty much all RWD/AWD cars should be pretty heavy to accept weight transfer. 13.4 - CAMBER Camber is the term used to describe the wheel's angle in relation to the ground, given a flat surface. Zero (degrees) camber means the wheel is totally perpendicular to the ground surface. If the wheel is cambered negatively, it is tilted inwards, so that the top of the wheel is further into the car. When the weight transfers to the outside of the car in the corner, a wheel with Zero camber will actually lean outward (positive camber) so that it rides up onto the sidewall of the tire. This is known as "plowing" or "rolling". In real life racing, the worst problem with plowing is that it wears the outside and sidewall of the tire, in extreme cases even tearing chunks out of the rubber. In addition, you will lose a fair bit of handling in the corner because the tire will not be using a full contact patch. Most often, the outside front tire will push, causing an understeering condition due to its loss of traction. However, if the wheel is cambered negatively a few degrees, it will return to Zero camber during weight transfer, because all of the weight is leaning it outward. Cambering allows the tire to return to a perpendicular position and gain its maximum traction. NOTE: loss of traction due to tire plowing also creates a more serious problem; braking power is significantly reduced, since the contact patch of the rubber that is braking is lessened. This occurs if the tire plows OR if the tire has too MUCH camber. -Outside Right Wheel- | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / | \ / ------------- ------------- ------------- Zero Camber Negative Camber Positive Camber General Tip: when a wheel is cambered, it will sit on that angle down the straightaway. Therefore, a RWD car should camber the Front wheels a fair bit to help in the corners, but you should keep the rear wheel camber minimal so that you do not lose traction down the straight. Alternately, you don't want much camber on the front wheels of a FWD car, but you will need a bit since understeer is a big problem with FWD. Treat 4WD as you would RWD, so that you can keep speed down the straight but not sacrifice handling. 13.5 - STABILIZERS Stabilizers, often referred to as anti-roll bars or sway bars, do just as the name suggests--compensate for body/chassis roll. The stiffer the sway bar is, the stiffer the relationship between both sides of the suspension is. Conversely, it also increases the amount of energy transferred from one wheel to its opposite. In other words, while it will tighten the car up and reduce chassis roll, it may upset the chassis and generally make it all squirrely. Stiffer rear sway bars in a RWD car will also improve acceleration because it balances the drivetrain torque (the rear end torques in a clockwise fashion looking from the rear, reducing traction on the LR wheel) for maximum traction. 13.6 - BRAKE BALANCE In my opinion, probably the most important all-around settings for handling. The Sports Brakes and Balance Controller should be your first buys, ESPECIALLY if you're modding a RWD car. The Balance Controller makes use of a proportioning valve to adjust the amount of braking force to rear and front brakes respectively. As most people know, if the back wheels lock up, you slide. The Balance Controller allows you to reduce the amount of back brakes while increasing the amount of front brakes. More front brakes will slow you and allow you to start into your turn much more sharply, while not sliding out by locking up the back wheels. Alternately, too much front brake will cause the car to understeer. General Tip: usually we keep the front brakes a little bit higher than the back, so that sliding is a fair bit more controllable. You want SOME back brakes, so that you have sufficient stopping power. Usually, it's a good idea to start with both front and back brakes at the same value, then adjust depending on the handling. Also remember that brake balance can depend a lot on driving style. Sliding can of course be controlled, and some may prefer to ALWAYS power slide through a corner--in a case like this, you want more back brakes. However, too much back brakes will cause the rear wheels to slide and lose traction. Note that you should keep this setting similar even for FWD cars, because you will not lose handling provided you brake properly. 13.7 - GEAR RATIOS These settings affect the shifting range of each gear. Generally, there's not really that much modification needed in between gears... the Final Gear Ratio is what's truly important. In relation to Turbo Boost, you can adjust acceleration. A high final gear ratio results in better acceleration, but sacrifices top speed. Thus, for races like the High-Speed Challenge, you may want to lower this number significantly. Adjusting specific gear range is really only needed when working with Turbo Chargers. You can adjust seperate gears depending on where you find a speed loss with Turbo. Typically you can often increase the 1st gear ratio to give a closer shift to 2nd gear, allowing for slightly better acceleration from start. 13.8 - DOWNFORCE Also a very important handling characteristic. Downforce is the term used to describe the way the air runs over the car. Downforce on certain parts of the car will push it downward to improve handling. Increasing downforce over the drive wheels improves traction and stability in the corners. Thus, increased traction causes better response from that part of the car. Downforce on the front air dam will increase traction to the front wheels, improving response and decreasing understeer. Downforce on the rear decreases oversteer. General Tip: to make handling overall better, use a lot of downforce on both ends of car, especially RWD to REALLY make it hold a turn. However, it's not much of a problem to lower downforce on the wing of a FWD car, since it only really needs traction on the front wheels. If you find yourself losing out a bit on the straights and you cannot, for some reason, make it up in the corners, then reduce downforce altogether to get a little more speed. 13.9 TOE Toe is the angle of the wheels in relation to their opposite. 0.00" toe means both wheels are parallel with each other and in line with the car. Toe out pulls the front of the wheels outward from each other, toe in does the opposite. Toe out on the front wheels allows the outside wheel to take a slightly greater path around the corner while the inside wheel maintains its original radius. This reduces the tendancy of the car to oversteer. Rear toe out performs a similiar feature, allowing the outside rear wheel to take a more gradual radius around the corner and maintain traction. 13.10 LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL Updated later when I figure out the specifics. Additions welcome ;). 13.11 YAW CONTROL Updated later when I figure out the specifics. Additions welcome ;). 13.12 TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM Updated later when I figure out the specifics. Additions welcome ;). 14.0 SIMULATION MODE RACES/CUPS --------------------------------- GARAGE TIPS: to cycle through your cars, press up and down... to skip an entire page down, press Right on the D-pad, and to move an entire page up, press Left on the D-pad. You can do a half-assed organizing job with your garage, as pressing the button over a given car moves that car to the top of the list. The following is a list of price cars gained after winning each race/series in Sim Mode. Special Thanks to ZZ of the forum message board, who translated this from a Japanese GT site. LICENCE ALL GOLD ---------------- B Licence- Spoon Honda S2000 A Licence- Dodge Concept Car I-C Licence- Mitsubishi GTO LM [R] I-B Licence- Honda CR-X LM [R] I-A Licence- Mitsubishi FTO LM [R] S Licence- 1999 Toyota TS020 GT LEAGUE --------- Europe League: Race 1- Castrol Toyota Supra LM [R] Race 2- Nissan R33 Skyline Xexel [R] Race 3- Nissan R33 Skyline Kure [R] Pacific League: Race 1- Nissan 300ZX GT-S [R] Race 2- Mazda RX-7 LM [R] Race 3- HKS Drag Nissan 180SX [R] World League (Random prize car): -Calsonic R33 Nissan Skyline [R] -Castrol-Mugen Acura NSX [R] -Nissan R390 GT-1 [R] -1998 Toyota GT-One Endurance Races (Random prize car): -Grand Valley- Subaru Impreza Rally [R] 1997 Nissan R390 GT-1 [R] -Apricot Hill- Lancia Stratos Dodge Viper GTS-R [R] -Seattle Street Course (Long)- Ford GT90 Concept Car [R] Ford Escort Rally [R] -Laguna Seca- Toyota Celica Rally [R] Mitsubishi GTO LM [R] -Rome City Street Course- Toyota Altezza LM [R] 1997 Toyota Corolla WRC [R] -Trial Mountain- Denso-Sard Toyota Supra -Special Stage R5- TVR Cerbera LM [R] Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Rally [R] SPECIAL EVENTS -------------- FF Challenge: Race 1- Mugen Honda Accord SiR-T Race 2- TOMs T111 Race 3- Mugen HondaPrelude Type-S FR Challenge: Race 1- Nissan Sil Eighty Race 2- Nissan Nismo 270R Race 3- Mazda RX-7 GT-C MR Challenge: Race 1- Toyota TRD2000GT Race 2- TOMs T020 Race 3- Ford GT40 [R] 4WD Challenge: Race 1- Subaru Legacy Wagon GT-B Race 2- Nissan Nismo 400R Preceiding Race 3- Mines Nissan R32.5 Skyline Lightweight K-car Cup: Race 1- Mugen Honda Beat Race 2- Mazda Demio A-Spec Race 3- Mugen Honda CR-X Pro.2 Global Compact Car Cup: Race 1- Toyota Vitz F Race 2- Renault Clio 16V Race 3- Volkswagon Lupo 1.4 Luxury Sedan Cup: Race 1- Honda Accord Type-R Race 2- TRD Sports Toyota Chaser Race 3- Autech Nissan Skyline GT-R Musclecar Cup: Race 1- Plymouth PT Spyder Race 2- Shelby Cobra Roadster Race 3- Chrysler Phaeton Concept Car World Open-Car Cup: Race 1- Mazda Roadster A-Spec (NB8C) Race 2- 1997 Toyota MR-S Show Car Race 3- Dodge Concept Car LM [R] Historical Car Cup: Race 1- Mugen Honda CR-X Pro.3 Race 2- Lotus Europa Race 3- 1999 Toyota XYR Show Car GT Wagon Challenge: Race 1- Subaru Impreza STi Ver.5 Race 2- Mugen Honda Accord Wagon Race 3- Nissan Stagea 260RS 80s Sports Car Cup: Race 1- Mugen Honda Civic Ferio Race 2- Mugen Honda CR-X Pro.3 Race 3- Mugen Honda Civic Type-R Race 4- Mugen Acura Integra Type-R Race 5- Nissan R30 Skyline Silhouete Formula [R] Gran Touring Car Trophy: Race 1- Nissan Silvia Daisen Race 2- Castrol-Mugen Acura NSX Race 3- Nissan Skyline Unisia Jecs Pure Sports Car Cup: Race 1- TOMs Angel T01 Race 2- Tommy Kaira ZZ III Race 3- Tuscan TVR Cerbera Speed 6 Tuned NA No.1 Cup: (random prize car) -Mazda Roadster C-Spec (NA8C) -Spoon Honda Civic -Spoon Acura Integra Tuned Turbo No.1 Cup: (random prize car) -Nissan Nismo 400R -Mines Nissan R33 Skyline -HKS Drag Nissan R33 Skyline Gran Turismo All-Stars: Race 1- Mines Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V Race 2- Mines Nissan R34 Skyline Race 3- TVR Speed 12 Race 4- Tommy Kaira ZZ II [R] Race 5- nissan R390 GT-1 Roadcar Super Touring Trophy: Race 1- TRD Toyota 3000GT Race 2- TOMs Toyota Supra Race 3- 30th Anniv. Chevrolet Camaro Z28 GT 300 Championship: (random prize car) -1999 Wed's Celica GT -BP Apex Kraft Trueno -Momo Corse Apex MR2 -Skyline Silhouette Formula (R30) GT 500 Championship: (random prize car) -1999 Cerumo Supra GT -Arta Zexel GT Skyline -Takata NSX GT (J) '99 -Taisan STP Viper GT -cdma One Supra GT Below is a currently incomplete list of Prize Cars with values, statistics and races won in. If there are any additions to this list please contact Kavadril or on ICQ at 36827545. Special Thanks goes to him for this list. Notes: Manufacturer merely refers to the place you would take the car to be tuned, e.g. Acura becomes Honda, Mercury becomes Ford, etc. The Power-to-Weight Ratio of the cars is taken BEFORE any modifications are made. Most of the cars can drastically improve on this, but I have not taken the time to fully modify all these cars and take the final reading, so I won't put it on this list. If no race number is given (as in the Tuned NA Car races), then the cars listed for that set of races (or single race) are selected at random as prize cars. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Car Name Manufacturer HP Weight Value Type Aspiration HP/Weight Race -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Spoon Sports S2000 Honda ??? ?,??? 12,000 FR Normal .???? B License Test [R]Castrol Supra GT Toyota 685 2,535 250,000 FR Turbo .2702 GT Europe 1 [R]Zexel Skyline GT Nissan 670 2,601 250,000 4WD Turbo .2576 GT Europe 2 [R]Kure R33 GT Nissan 670 2,601 250,000 4WD Turbo .2576 GT Europe 3 [R]Nissan 300ZX GT Nissan 301 2,601 250,000 FR Turbo .2311 GT Pacific 1 [R]Mazda RX-7 LM Edition Mazda 551 2,116 250,000 FR Turbo .2604 GT Pacific 2 [R]HKS Drag 180SX Nissan 1,011 2,160 250,000 FR Turbo .4681 GT Pacific 3 [R]Mugen NSX GT Honda 608 2,601 250,000 MR Normal .2338 GT World Mugen Accord SIR-T Honda 190 2,865 7,000 FF Normal .0663 FF Car 1 Tom's T111 Toyota 172 2,248 5,500 FF Normal .0765 FF Car 2 Mugen Prelude Type-S Honda 211 2,888 7,500 FF Normal .0731 FF Car 3 Sileighty Nissan 201 2,579 2,000 FR Turbo .0779 FR Car 1 Nismo 270R Nissan 264 2,733 10,000 FR Turbo .0966 FR Car 2 Mazdaspeed RX-7 GT-C Mazda 293 2,821 11,250 FR Turbo .1039 FR Car 3 TRD 2000GT Toyota 266 2,843 7,500 MR Turbo .0936 MR Car 1 [R]GT40 Race Car Ford 492 2,200 250,000 MR Normal .2236 MR Car 3 Legacy Wagon GT-B Subaru 274 3,152 5,150 4WD Turbo .0869 4WD Car 1 Nismo 400R Preceiding Nissan 393 3,417 20,000 4WD Turbo .1150 4WD Car 2 Mine's R32.5 Skyline GT-R Nissan 618 3,306 17,500 4WD Turbo .1869 4WD Car 3 Lupo 1.4 Volkswagen 73 1,904 4,172 FF Turbo .0383 Compact Car 3 Accord Type-R Honda 207 2,962 10,000 FF Normal .0699 Luxury Car 1 TRD Chaser X30 Toyota 312 3,240 10,000 FR Turbo .0963 Luxury Car 2 Nismo GT-R 4-Door Nissan 293 3,439 12,500 4WD Turbo .0852 Luxury Car 3 PT Spyder Plymouth 221 2,700 25,000 MR Normal .0819 Muscle Car 1 Cobra 427 '67 Shelby 423 2,345 75,000 FR Normal .1804 Muscle Car 2 Phaeton Dodge 502 3,527 25,000 FR Normal .1423 Muscle Car 3 MX-5 Miata A Spec. Mazda 141 2,292 7,000 FR Normal .0615 Convertible 1 MR-S Show Version Toyota 135 2,138 12,500 MR Normal .0631 Convertible 2 [R]Concept Car LM Edition Dodge 526 1,984 125,000 MR Normal .2651 Convertible 3 XYR '99 (Celica) Toyota 182 2,513 12,500 FF Normal .0724 Historic Car 3 Impreza STi Ver. V Subaru 283 2,888 6,300 4WD Turbo .0980 Station Wagon 1 Mugen Accord Wagon Honda 197 3,152 6,250 FF Normal .0625 Station Wagon 2 Stagea 260RS by Nismo Nissan 343 3,791 12,000 4WD Turbo .0905 Station Wagon 3 Mugen Civic Honda 164 2,491 5,750 FF Normal .0658 80's Sports 1 [R]Unisa GT-R GT Nissan 702 2,601 250,000 4WD Turbo .2699 Grand Touring 3 Tom's Angel T01 Toyota 155 1,543 12,500 MR Normal .1005 Pure Sports 1 Tuscan Speed 6 TVR 361 2,336 125,000 FR Normal .1545 Pure Sports 3 Spoon Civic Type-R Honda 212 1,807 7,500 FF Normal .1173 Tuned NA Car Spoon Integra Type-R Honda 259 1,984 9,500 FF Normal .1305 Tuned NA Car MX-5 Miata B Spec. Mazda 165 2,160 3,000 FR Normal .0764 Tuned NA Car Nismo 400R Nissan 393 3,417 30,000 4WD Turbo .1150 Tuned Turbo Car Mine's R33 Skyline GT-R Nissan 618 3,395 18,750 4WD Turbo .1820 Tuned Turbo Car HKS R33 Drag GT-R Nissan 1,011 2,821 250,000 4WD Turbo .3584 Tuned Turbo Car Mine's Lancer Evo. V Mitsubishi 413 2,380 13,750 4WD Turbo .1735 GT All-Stars 1 Mine's R34 Skyline GT-R Nissan 618 3,395 20,000 4WD Turbo .1820 GT All-Stars 2 Speed 12 TVR 807 2,094 500,000 FR Normal .3854 GT All-Stars 3 [R]ZZ-II Tommy Kaira 588 2,248 250,000 MR Turbo .2616 GT All-Stars 4 R390 GT-1 Road Car '97 Nissan 351 2,204 250,000 MR Turbo .1593 GT All-Stars 5 [R]Momo MR2 GT Toyota 374 2,843 125,000 MR Turbo .1316 GT 300 [R]Arta GT-R GT Nissan 702 2,201 250,000 4WD Turbo .3189 GT 500 15.0 ARCADE MODE TIPS AND CARS -------------------------------- Well, I appear to be 100% done arcade mode... basically, get all your licences in Sim Mode, and the Arcade disc will recognize them and open up most of the tracks. Then, you beat each track on the Difficult setting (class makes no difference) and it will open up its reverse track, and unlock either a Rally Car or an S-Class Car. As you progress, you'll open up more tracks. Still no Drag Racing sightings. Note: Motorports Park appears to be a small go kart track, and can only be played in Time Trial mode. Here's an extensive car list for Arcade Mode, including the tracks required to win on to gain the cars (if applicable). Special Thanks to Paul Hopkins for this great list. S Class ------- Aston Martin V8 Vantage - 5. Seattle Short Course Dodge Viper GTS - 8. Seattle Circuit Jaguar XKR Coupe - 12. Apricot Hill Speedway Lister Storm - 20. Deep Forest Raceway Renault Clio Sport V6 24v - 3. High Speed Ring RUF CTR 2 - 9. Rome Circuit Shelby Corba Daytona Coupe - 19. Test Course TVR Tuscan Speed Six - 18. Autumn Ring Vector M12 - 14. Clubman Stage Route 5 Venturi Atlantique 400 GT - 6. Rome Short Course A Class ------- Chevrolet Corvette Coupe Ford Mustang SVT Cobra Lotus Elise Sport 190 Mazda RX-7 Type RS Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI GSR Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec Subaru Legacy B4 RSK Tommy Kaira ZZ-S Coupe B Class ------- Alfa Romeo 156 2.5 V6 24v Audi TT BMW 328i Saloon Fiat CoupÈ 2.0 20v Turbo Honda S2000 Lancia Delta HF integrale Mercedes-Benz CLK 320 Sports Plymouth Pt Spyder Toyota Altezza RS200 C Class ------- CitroÎn Xsara 1.8i 16v Exclusive Daihatsu Move Aerodown Custom Ford Mercury Cougar MGF 1.8ivvc Opel Tigra 1.6i Peugeot 206 GTi Mini Cooper 1.3i Suzuki AltoWorks RS/Z Volkswagen Golf GTi Rally Car --------- CitroÎn Saxo Ford Focus Lancia Delta HF integrale Mazda ProtegÈ Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V Nissan Pulsar GTi-R Opel Tigra Ice Race Car Peugeot 206 Renault MÈgane Subaru Impreza Subaru Impreza 99 Toyota Celica GT-Four 261hp Toyota Corolla Diahatsu StÚria X4 - 2. Midfield Raceway Ford Escort - 16. Grand Valley Speedway Lancia Strato's - 15. Grand Valley East Section Mini Cooper 127 MK 1 - 7. Red Rock Valley Speedway Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution III - 13. Trial Mountail Circuit Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV - 4. Super Speedway Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI - 21. Rome-Night Peugeot 306 - 1. Tahiti Road Toyota Celica GT-Four 251hp - 11. Laguna Seca Raceway Toyota Celica GT-Four 295hp - 17. Special Stage Route 5 Volkwagen Golf - 10. Grindelwald 16.0 AROUND THE WEB--ADDITIONS FROM THE READERS ------------------------------------------------- Here's the scoop. I'm gonna start adding strategies for each course as well as updating the car setup section frequently. However I want to expand this to include spcific car strategies, so here's what I'd like: send me in a "complete" review of a car that you enjoy driving or have substantial knowledge of. Include its specs (don't get too detailed, hp/weight, basic suspension etc will be enough), its strengths and weaknesses, what modifications do it best, what kind of dirving style it takes to run it, your best suspension/gearing setups for that car, and even some history of the real life version. Note that I'll be doing most of the musclecars myself very soon to give you some examples, so the extra musclecar reviews may not be posted, at least not yet. LET'S HERE EM! Here's what we got so far: 1. TURBOCHARGER TUNING: This is to answer one of the most frequently asked questions about turbo-aspirating cars in Gran Turismo. The question usually goes something like this: "Hey, I just bought a level 4 turbo kit for my Nissan R32 Skyline, bringing it to 600+ HP. But now the &@*%ing thing won't accelerate like it used to. What gives?" Here's an explanation: Each turbo kit progressively enlarges the turbines in the turbocharger. Enlarging these parts is a mixed blessing: A larger turbine means more power can be generated, increasing acceleration (in higher RPMs) and top speed. There is a downside to this: the larger the turbine gets, the more energy it takes to get it spinning from a standstill. Thus, equipping a level 3 or 4 turbo kit in GT 2 will dramatically increase overall power in high RPMs, but they make the car accelerate unacceptably slow in low RPMs. This is called "turbo lag." If you have a car in GT 2 which is experiencing turbo lag problems, and you need to start it up from stationery; then the best way to start up is to shift to neutral, accelerate to near-redline levels, then shift to first gear. If you're using auto-shift, then try setting the parking break (that's the triangle button) until the engine has revved up. This does not completely work around the problem, but it is useful if you ever have to start up again after crashing in the middle of a race. Note that some turbo-aspiration cars, such as the Mitsubishi 3000GT Twin Turbo, do not experience the same magnitude of turbo lag-related problems as other turbo-aspiration cars. These cars actually have two turbochargers rather than one, which suppresses turbo lag while delivering the same power benefits. This is because the two smaller turbines take less power to start up than a large one, and working parallel, deliver the same amount of power. Nick Zitzmann 2. LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL: I've been noticing that an adjustment of 5-15, up to 50 or so on the fully custom diff-accelerator, allows for virutally no lag between gears, and furthermore, allows almost rocket-like acceleration all of the time... at the expense of handling. What's nice is that the decel value set at 15 or 16 allows quick wind-down, depending the turn, car...each car responds differently and depending on the track. But the push can be significant with the right track, conditions.... LSD seems to work better on a variety of cars vs. ACS, or whatever the acro... The initial setting is the starting line/take off setting. You want traction so set it low as you need the gear to slip in order to get torque. Any super close ratio/small car, less accel diff, big cars, you can get away with more... kinda. Spinning occurs, then you need to look at the ACS/Tsc...or lowering the gear ratio. In fact, everytime I make the gearing taller, I add more diff. It does make a real difference, getting rid of the loss in accel that raising it to a taller ratio would. On a closer ratio, less. On the high-powered turbo cars, 35-40 works well, but it really depends on the track's traction and corners. Jeff Glotzer 3. CAR REVIEW; VOLKSWAGON BEETLE GT: The car about the only two cars that would be worth the $500,000 would have to be the Volkswagen Beetle GT. I personally have used it in every race that the car is legal in. The secret to the "bug" is that it has the VW Syncros AWD ( some say that Audi's Quattro is the same but it is highly diffrent ) When you purchase this car you get a 2100 pound car that has 449 bhp. That is 4.68 pounds per bhp, when you compare the same priced Ford (DORF ) GT-40 ( 7.21 pounds per bhp ), it is worth to buy an AWD, 449 BHP car that you can use in just about any race ( even in rally races, if your good enough ). Endurance races with this car are great. The Syncros was designed to save tires due to the fact that it helps the car out of the corner and that it has ( in really life , but very little if the car is setup properly ) no wheel spin.... If any one has any thoughts about my opinion on why you should use this car in GT2 please feel free to email me. Joe Hutchings 4. CAR REVIEW: 1998 TOYOTA GT-1 ROAD CAR Price: $1,000,000 Worth It?: Oh hell yeah. Here's the scoop. This car comes with 591 horsepower, and weighs in at a startlingly low 1,984 lbs. That's good for a power-to-weight ratio of nearly .3 But, it doesn't stop there. Unlike a lot of the high-priced GT-class racecars, the Toyota GT-One Road Car can be upgraded. The addition of a level 4 Turbine Kit (a mere $74,000) rockets the car's horsepower to 975! What does that mean you ask? Well, aside from boosting the power-to-weight ratio from .3 to .5, it means that this car has STUPID FAST (technical term) acceleration. With the settings I use when driving mine, the car gets terrible acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear, and only average acceleration in 3rd gear. Where this car really shines however, is in 4th through 6th gear. The car climbs the Tachometer in 6th gear like most cars do in 2nd. The car goes from 100 to 200 mph in an unbelievable 8 seconds. This is faster than a lot of cars go 0-100! All in all, this is one of the best cars in the game. It's just too fast in the straights for the other cars to catch it. And with a few liberal driving techniques, such as using the handbrake to induce rear-end slip, it can even be made to handle like a dream. Kavadril Gildoron 5. CAR REVIEW: 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z-28 Here's the first of my own car reviews, and I wouldn't mind if everyone's submissions were similar to this in format (though I'm not expecting this kind of length, unless you want to ;) Make: Chevrolet Model: Camaro Z-28 Year: 1969 Dealer Price: 37,420 Drivetrain: Front Engine/RWD Engine: Cast-iron Overhead Valve Smallblock V8 Displacement: 5.7 litres (350 cubic inches) Horsepower: 299 hp @ 4800 rpm Torque: 379 ft-lbs @ 3200 rpm Curb Weight: 3395 lbs Front Suspension: Unequal length double wishbone Rear Suspension: Leaf-suspended History: The 67-69 Camaro is arguably the most popular incarnation of the famous pony car, and with the Z-28 package available, why shouldn't it be? Chevrolet built the Camaro specifically as competition for Ford's pony car, the Mustang, but in addition, they needed a car to compete against the Mustang in SCCA Trans-Am racing as well; thus the Z-28 was born. Because of the 305 cubic-inch limit in the Trans-Am class, Chevrolet mated a 283 crank with a 327 block to produce 302 cubic inches of displacement (see below about this engine). Installing a high lift, high duration cam along with an aluminum high rise intake mounted to a 750 cfm Holley 4 barrel, this 302 was waaaay underrated at 290 horsepower for the street, in actuality making approx. 400 horsepower, and able to rev well to 7000 rpm. An optional Cross-Ram Intake with twin Holley 4-bbl Carburators was later offered in 1969. This engine dropped in the relatively lightweight f-body platform with 4-wheel disc brakes, limited-slip differntial and road racing suspension made it a force to be feared both in a straight line and in the corners. On the drag strip, the Z-28 with the high-revving 302 was capable of consistant 14-second flat E.T.s on skinny 7" bias plys with next to no traction. Bolting on a set of modern radials to a bone stock '69 Z-28 rockets it to low 13s in the 1/4... not bad for a 60s smallblock pony car designed for road racing. (I know what you're thinking, go try it in the 0-400m and you'll likely run a low 15 second E.T. when stock... just remember, it's a videogame, not real life ;)... and besides, it's difficult to get a good launch even with the analog throttle). This formula obviously was a success, as the Camaro not only sold in record numbers on the street and, more importantly, had amazing success in SCCA. Mark Donahue and Roger Penske gained victory three times in the 1967 season during the Z-28's "break-in" period, then went on to claim the championship in 1968 with a record 10 out of 13 race wins. Their domination continued with the Camaro, winning the championship again in 1969. First off, I'm very pissed off at Sony for not being accurate with this Camaro. The Z-28 option in the 1967-69 Camaros used the 302 smallblock, and Sony has seen fit to drop in a 350 (5.7 l) smallblock instead. The 350 smallblock was only available in the 1969 Camaro (not the Z-28) with a 2-bbl carb making 255 horsepower. If they strive to give us the classic cars we want, why can't they be accurate?! Maybe if the designers weren't so damn biased towards Japanese manufacturers... but I digress... Gran Turismo 2, I'm happy to say, has faithfully translated the Z-28 (minus the accuracy of the engine) to be a competitor just as it was in the 60s. When fully modded, the Z-28 runs close to 440 horsepower from its naturally aspirated smallblock, and weighs in at a scant 2899 lbs. This gives it more than enough speed to hang with a lot of the other "mid-card" racecars, though it's unfortunately not in the league with the GT or LM cars. It's also rather unfortunate that the designers seemed to overlook the potential of this engine, when smallblock chevy's of this type have been seen to make over 700 horsepower in real life without the aid of a blower or nitrous. The Z-28, as it was back in 1969, is already a decent handler in stock form, even by today's standards. But, as it was in 1969, the main problem with its handling is its pathetic 7" wide bias ply tires. So if you're looking to remain in basically stock form and just have some fun with this Camaro, the only thing it's in serious need of is a set of tires. I recommend slicks of course ;). The Z-28's Double wishbone front suspension is sturdy and up to the task, one of the main reasons it's still used today in many sports cars, including the Corvette. After fully modding the Suspension, the Camaro gets a much needed drop in ride height among other things, but the only serious suspension tuning tip you need for this car is to set the rebound on the rear shocks quite low, and the front quite high to get rocketing acceleration out of the corner. Other than that, consider whether or not you want real stiff suspension, it's more of a driver preference if you don't mind hanging by a hair around uneven surfaces. But with the properly tuned suspension this car will have only a hint of a loose condition on corner exit, with excellent braking characteristics thanks to its 4-wheel disc brakes. Probably the best thing about this translation of the Z-28, other than it's obviously beautiful timeless styling, is how excellently Sony duplicated the sound of the 350 (althought it's supposed to be a 302 dammit!) smallblock. With exhaust mods, the excellent thrumb of the engine at around 6000 rpm is true music to the ears. MY PERSONAL SETTINGS: --------------------- FRONT REAR Spring Rate: 14.3 in-lb 12.4 in-lb Ride Height: 97 101 Shock Bound: 8 6 Shock Rebound: 7 4 Camber: 3.2 degrees 0.5 degrees Toe: +0.05 0.0 Stabilizer: 7 6 Brakes: 19 12 Notes: this setup is best suited for my driving style, which is a hard-entrance controlled loose condition. The Z-28 with these settings is an excellent braker and, if braking heavy and entering the apex, can rocket out of the corner with best possible speed (thanks to the shock settings allowing for excellent rear weight transfer). The car will get naturally loose on its own without throttle, but it is a controlled condition during corner entrance. The downside to this setup is that the car will tend to get more loose on serious throttle during corner exits. I am currently foolding with the LSD to lessen this while not reducing acceleration. This will be updated. John Culbert 17.0 GAMESHARK CODES ---------------------- Special Thanks to RaysurX and Luke_Skywalker from the MessageBoard for the codes below. These codes are for the North American version of Gran Turismo 2 ONLY, using GameShark 2.0 or above. USE THESE AT YOUR OWN RISK. NOTE: I DO NOT OWN A GAMESHARK AND THUS HAVE A HARD TIME KEEPING UP WITH THE CODES, OR THINKING UP MY OWN. ANYONE WHO HAS A NICE, THOROUGH LIST, PLEASE SUBMIT THEM AND I'LL POST IT WITH CREDIT. NOTE II: IF ONE OF THESE CODES DOES NOT WORK, TALK TO A GAMESHARK WEBSITE OR SOMEONE WITH ONE, I ONLY GET THEM OFF THE NET JUST LIKE YOU. ARCADE DISC ----------- -Unlock RALLY Tracks: 800F3656 0009 -Unlock 2p tracks including Rally Tracks that *Street* cars can race on: 800f3658 001c -Unlock Rally Tracks for 2 Player: 800f365a 0006 -NITROUS "QUICK SHOT-SQUEEZE": Works only with Dual Shock Analog controllers. Press R3 (right analog stick) to activate at any point after mid-range RPM in 1st gear: D00A9228 4000 800A99DE 0020 D00A9228 4000 800A99DA 0020 -Unlock Ending Credits: 80052580 0001 80052594 0001 Once you enter the "View Credits" screen, disable off the code or the FMV will lock up. -Hood View w/Joker Commands: D00A9228 0001 801FFA92 0003 D00A9228 0002 801FFA92 0000 Press UP on the D-pad to enable, Press DOWN on the D-pad to disable. You must not be pressing any other buttons when enabling or disabling the jokers. SIMULATION DISC: ---------------- -99,999,999 Credits: 801D0FC8 E0FF 801D0FCA 05F5 -Stop Race Timer (e.g. Licence Tests): Press up on the D-pad during a race/test to activate. Pressing any other button at the same time will nullify the action: D00A9228 0001 8002F810 0000 D00A9228 0001 80046E84 0000 -Gold Licences: WARNING: DO NOT ACTIVATE ALL LICENSE SETS AT ONCE.. USE ONE AT A TIME, SAVING BETWEEN EACH LICENSE SET. For example, activate the B-license codes first. Then save, discard the B-license codes and enter A-license codes, then save, etc... GOLD LICENSES B: 801CC760 0400 801CC804 0400 801CC8A8 0400 801CC94C 0400 801CC9F0 0400 801CCA94 0400 801CCB38 0400 801CCBDC 0400 801CCC80 0400 801CCD24 0400 GOLD LICENSES A: 801CC0F8 0400 801CC19C 0400 801CC240 0400 801CC2E4 0400 801CC388 0400 801CC42C 0400 801CC4D0 0400 801CC574 0400 801CC618 0400 801CC6BC 0400 GOLD LICENSES I-C: 801CBB34 0400 801CBBD8 0400 801CBC7C 0400 801CBD20 0400 801CBDC4 0400 801CBE68 0400 801CBF0C 0400 801CBFB0 0400 801CC054 0400 GOLD LICENSES I-B: 801CB428 0400 801CB4CC 0400 801CB570 0400 801CB614 0400 801CB6B8 0400 801CB75C 0400 801CB800 0400 801CB8A4 0400 801CB948 0400 801CB9EC 0400 801CBA90 0400 GOLD I-A LICENSES: 801CADC0 0400 801CAE64 0400 801CAF08 0400 801CAFAC 0400 801CB050 0400 801CB0F4 0400 801CB198 0400 801CB23C 0400 801CB2E0 0400 801CB384 0400 GOLD S-LICENSE: 801CA758 0400 801CA7FC 0400 801CA8A0 0400 801CA944 0400 801CA9E8 0400 801CAA8C 0400 801CAB30 0400 801CABD4 0400 801CAC78 0400 801CAD1C 0400 18.0 RESOURCES ---------------- The best resource for compiling this information is the Gran Turismo Message board, at Thanks especially to HondaKid86, and Jaz Rignall of IGN ( for posting some real informative documents on GT2. Also thanks to Tony Lau and Kevin Knipp for additional information. Resources: ----------;list (189 current screen shots) (my page :P) 19.0 CREDITS -------------- Special thanks go out to all the members of #cars, who have helped spread the word about the problem of ricing cars (and I don't mean japanese cars, rather any car that has that kind of tasteless, useless crap done to it--see for the PROPER explanation of this sad phenomenon), as well as Jason Jamieson, Ryan Jackson, Tyler Stewart, Jove Malcolm and Sam Reckzin for Gran Turismo competition, and GT2 competition to come ;). REMEMBER TO CHECK OUT MY GRAN TURISMO 2 NEWS PAGE FEATURED ON HTTP://CARS.DRIP.ORG FOR LOTSA GREAT PICS, VIDEO CLIPS, INFO, AND OF COURSE THIS DOCUMENT! This FAQ and all my others can be accessed at the following sites: Wanna talk? You can contact me on IRC (Internet Relay Chat) as tigeraid, #cars,, #vfhome, #tekken and #capcom. NEED ALL THE BEST ON-LINE INFO ON FIGHTING GAMES? COME CHECK OUT FIGHTERS NET AT WWW.FIGHTERS.NET. UNBIASED, HARDCORE INFO ONLY! "I said it before and I'll say it again--democracy simply doesn't work!" -Kent Brockman, the Simpsons REST IN PEACE, #99 GREG MOORE ----------------------------- I'd like to take a short moment to speak my thoughts on the tragedy that befell Greg Moore at Fontana on October 31st of 1999. He was killed in a crash early on in the race and pronounced dead 90 minutes later. Greg Moore was a fellow Canadian racecar driver, and though I never had the privilage of meeting him in real life, I have been aquainted with his team's PR reps before. Certainly I don't mean this in an egotisical way, but being a Canadian racer as well I feel a great loss almost as if he was a personal friend or family. This just goes to show that there are some serious problems with the design of these cars. In 4 years, three drivers and five spectators have been killed in accidents during races in the CART series. This to me shows that's there's really something wrong with the direction CART is taking. I race oval on a weekly basis and never exceed speeds of 80 mph (because it's a 1/4 mile oval, very small--my car's certainly capable of faster). At these speeds, our racing is close, competitive and very fun to watch. My point is, why the hell do series like CART have to go so fast? It doesn't make it any more exciting to watch, it's the competition that counts--NASCAR restricts speeds for safety reasons and hell, stockcars like these and mine have full bodies and rollcages. Dale Earndhart, at Daytona two years ago, flipped his car 20 ft in the air, rolled twice hitting the fence on the front stretch. He got out of the car on his own, walked to the ambulance, and later, after realizing the engine still fired, put 4 new tires on it, taped it up and went out and continued the race. Open wheel cars are just plain too dangerous and feeble to be racing at these tremendous speeds. Despite the fact that designs of these cars have advanced greatly since the old days, with the cockpit seperating from the rest of the shattered car during impact, it's still far too dangerous. It's simple physics- -the closer the rest of the car is around the driver, the more energy of impact the driver's body will absorb. The cockpit is very small and tight around the driver without any frame or tubing to absorb the impact, meaning the walls of the cockpit and the driver's body still takes most of the impact. This design seriously needs to be rethought. I know I'm rambling and this document is supposed to be for Gran Turismo 2. I'm just so sad at the loss of who is arguably the 2nd best racecar driver our country has ever produced, next to Gilles Villeneuve, and quite possibly was on his way to being THE best. But at the same time, I'm incredibly frustrated and angry that open wheel racing has not taken steps to improve safety, only increasing speed. Rest in Peace, Greg Moore, you will be sorely missed by your friends, fans, and fellow racers. ----------------- END OF DOCUMENT</p>