WWWW WWWW OOOOOOOO RRRRRRRRRR LLL DDDDDDDD WWWW WWWW OOOOOOOOOO RRRRRRRRRRR LLL DDDDDDDDD WWWW WWWW OOOO OOOO RRRR RRR LLL DDD DDD WWWW WWW WWWW OOOO OOOO RRRRRRRRRR LLL DDD DDD WWWW WWWWW WWWW OOOO OOOO RRRR RRRR LLL DDD DDD WWWWWWWWWWWWW OOOOOOOOOO RRRR RRRR LLLLLLLL DDDDDDDDD WWWW WWWW OOOOOOOO RRRR RRRR LLLLLLLL DDDDDDDD OOOOOO FFFFFF OOOOOOOO FFFFFF OOO OOO FF OOO OOO FFFF OOO OOO FFFF OOOOOOOO FF OOOOOO FF WWWW WWWW AAAA RRRRRR CCCCC RRRRRR AAAA FFFFFF TTTTTTTT WWWW WWWW AAAAAA RRRRRRR CCCCCC RRRRRRR AAAAAA FFFFFF TTTTTTTT WWWW WWWW AAA AAA RR RR CC RR RR AAA AAA FF TT WWWW WWW WWWW AAAAAAAA RRRRRR CC RRRRRR AAAAAAAA FFFF TT WWWW WWWWW WWWW AAAAAAAA RRRRRR CC RRRRRR AAAAAAAA FFFF TT WWWWWWWWWWWWW AAA AAA RR RR CCCCCC RR RR AAA AAA FF TT WWWW WWWW AAA AAA RR RR CCCCC RR RR AAA AAA FF TT ***************************************** * Game: World of Warcraft * * Type: FAQ * * For: PC * * Author: Brad Russell "TheGum" * * Email: lunatic_252000@yahoo.com * * Web: www.thechaosuniverse.com * ***************************************** Version 0.5 - basic info ready, could be a little more to finish. (2/10/09) Version 1.0 - not sure what would be 100% complete, but here is what I got, and it's still rough and unorganized. (5/8/09) ***************** Table Of Contents ***************** Use quick find (Ctrl + F) and type in the code or level. Section: Code: 1. A Brief Foreword 2. Controls ( CON2222 ) 3. Starter Tips ( TIPS333 ) 4. The Guide ( FAQ4444 ) 5. Classes 6. PvP 7. 8. Author Info / Copyright *nothing is organized, I'll fix in the next update. ***************************************************************************** * 1. A Brief Foreword * ***************************************************************************** Warcraft is a beast. You must seriously consider if you're ready to take it on as if you were committing to banned substances. Levels, achievements, heavy multiplayer, many different builds to tinker with, a full economy, gear with no end, and just tons of things to collect for vanity, you really have no hope of having any other entertainment if you start playing WoW. Yes, this game is extremely fun. If you like anything in gaming you will find something to like in this game, and no one can argue with the strength of the multiplayer, which is essentially 1/4 of the game unless you just love running dungeons and raids. Anyway, as far as this guide, probably the reason why it has taken so long to get out is not because it's taken this long to make it, it's just that I don't know where it ends, much in the same way the game does not end. So I just choose now as the finishing point for my first version. There is a ton more to come, and I'm sure more than enough tips and flames (mostly from noob horde). TheGum. PS - now I can kinda get back into my RE5 guide. ***************************************************************************** * 2. Controls ( CON2222 ) * ***************************************************************************** Really not much to put here. Your standard WASD controls, and then under Key Bindings in your options (press ESC) you can move all the tabs and pans to certain keys. I will also mention that it is worth thinking about buying a special keyboard with a game pad, not a controller but just some board with stacked numbers. I say this because you have about 20 abilities, and on a standard keyboard you'll only have reasonable use for six of the number keys. Of course you probably only need to keystroke six, but it's something to think about. Personally I prefer using mouse clicks for abilities, but to each their own. ***************************************************************************** * 3. Starter Tips ( TIPS333 ) * ***************************************************************************** #1. Right clicking stuff in your bag uses them. Such as eating, equipping, using key items, and so on. #2. The shift key and holding the mouse or clicking something usually does something. Shift + number changes bars, holding shift over an item compares with what you are wearing, clicking a chat name will display where that person is, and so forth. #3. For the fashion crowd, Ctrl clicking something not equipped will display it on you. #4. Under options you have many things to change, such as display, user interface, video, and audio settings. Under display you can set it so you don't see your helm or cloak. You can also change the number of action bars to set up your abilities. #5. Items that have white names are usually useful in some way, enough so that it may be worth checking what it's for online on thottbot and such. But items in grey can always be tossed, not picked up, or sold for a small price to vendors. Grey items are of no use to anyone. #6. No one needs the ammo pouches or quivers anymore thanks to a patch, but don't think that because you have a gun you need an ammo pouch. Just fill your bag slots with normal bags and put your ammo in there; if a hunter then you still don't need an ammo bag because you get the speed bonus without one. You also don't need to carry special bags that carry certain items, those are probably best to put in your bank. #7. Though you may think you can sell anything you aren't using at the moment, you may find you need those same items later, so to a degree it may be better to hold onto certain mats for a time. #8. Items of green quality and up will bind to your character once you put them on. If you are an enchanter then you can disenchant them, but everyone else can only sell them to vendors once they are replaced. #9. There are two useful ways to find things without asking other players. Guards in cities will tell you the locations of certain people and even give you a map marker for them. Then there is a small tab over your mini map that you can toggle to locate any number of things, including stuff you can track if you are a hunter, herbalist, or miner. #10. Figure out how you want to use your abilities. Aside from knowing how they work, you have two ways to use them: clicking them on the action bars or through key bindings. I started on key bindings, but that limited my scope of thinking how to use all of them. It is nice to have some of your more powerful and most-used abilities on a few keys, but for most cases you'll use more of your abilities through clicking them on action bars. Under Options and Interface you can add action bars all around the screen. #11. Find out early what direction you want to take your character in. Randomly buliding your toon early will lead to wasted money and maybe getting buffs for stats you shouldn't be using. #12. Keep an eye out for item bindings and which hand they must go in. A few items can only be held in the main hand, so never get two of such weapons. #13. Check the auction house for glyphs for your class of character. Even if the glyphs are above your level but at a good price, consider picking them up if you see that ability being useful to you. You put on glyphs in your talent page and the nodes open as you level. #14. Be sure to change your video settings so that the game runs smoothly. Beautiful graphis should give way to smooth frame rates and less lag, both of which can get monitored on the computer icon on your tool bar. #15. If you lag, meaning there is a delay in your connection, think about getting a hunter, caster, or lock so that you don't have to know exactly where your enemy is or be within 5 yards in order to damage him. ***************************************************************************** * 4. The FAQ ( FAQ4444 ) * ***************************************************************************** ======================== Realm and Character Info ======================== Realms ------ For one you must pick a realm and you will have to stay on this realm for all of your characters. I believe you can make 10 in total. I tell you this because if you get on WoW because of friends you must know their or you'll never be able to interact with them. You can have 10 characters, also called Toons, on each realm, with a total of 50 characters across all realms. But keep in mind there are PvE, PvP, role-playing, and PvP RP realms. Here is a link to where you can check the status of each realm to help decide where you want to play, because high population realms require waiting times to get in, but low-pop realms could pose different problems, such as one faction having a big advantage: http://www.warcraftrealms.com/realmstats.php Here is also the link to check the status of realms: http://www.worldofwarcraft.com/realmstatus/ As far as picking a character, you can make 10, so it's not like you have to get it right on your first try. But if you don't like your character, be it looks or skills or play-style of the class, then feel free to get a another fired up. Any toons on the other faction, regardless of server, cannot receive mail from your other toons on the other faction - so if you get your main and want other characters on the other faction you can make them on any server because they are basically on their own anyway. Characters ---------- I will tell you that this game is based on only a few play styles. I would say tanking, nuking, healing, rogue, and hunter are your styles of play. Tanking is done by warriors, Death Knights, and several other classes. Nuking is done by mages, warlocks, and other classes with high burst damage. Healing is done by priests and other hybrid classes. Rogue is your stealth style, but also your melee and DPS class, with melee and DPS possible with other sources as well. Hunters are a unique class in that they are the only ones to use ranged weapons to any true effect. And of course there are many hybrids, such as the druid, who can do a little bit of a lot of these. I will lay out a somewhat simple outline for each class here: Warrior - you tank, take damage, and deal damage, that's about it. Pick this to make WoW a simpler game. Paladin - can do a bit of everything, but is mainly an offensive healer. Mage - spells and buffs, but basically no armor. Warlocks - spells and minions. Relies on leeching opponent's health. Hunter - pet and faster ranged attack speed. Rogue - stealth, poisons, burst and sustained damage. Shaman - hybrid based mostly on magic. Can even do melee to good effect. Druid - beast forms and can do about everything, but weak armor. Priest - healer/protector, but can dish out damage if you wish (will be highly sought after for groups, trust me) Death Knight - a tank with potential to have a pet or heal itself. No reason to not have a DK. *NOTE: I hear that Mages, Shaman, and Druids can have pets at some point as well, though I'm not entirely sure how.* All classes are limited in what weapons and armor they can use, and some can use more armor at higher levels. And all classes have three branches of talents to follow which determine how your character will play, and you can even change these later. Lastly you must choose a race, or firstly, but the last thing I cover. Your race provides you a few special abilities and perks, and also limit what class you can choose. One key thing to keep in mind is where you start. All races start in the same area, and as far as Alliance the most popular are the humans. And of the starting Alliance zones, the gnome/dwarf zone is tougher than the night elf or human zones. ======= Classes ======= We will go into the basics of all the classes, but not too far, just a slightly deeper look at each class. Here is a link to check talent trees and see how you may want to build your character(s): www.wowarmory.com Warrior ------- You play off a "rage" bar where you get more the more you fight. Unlike mana and energy you build up rage, so it takes time to use abilities, instead of the abilities ready to go to start. You play off of three battle stances, can wear all armor eventually, and can hold shields. Go for gear that buffs your strength and stamina. Mage ---- Mages specialize in what we call "burst" damage, or "nuking," meaning you cast a spell for one big hit, rather than getting the same damage out of a ton of hits. They provide only weak elements of protection, with turning enemies into sheep and such being the main defense. You can also create portals for fast travel among cities. Focus on intellect, spirit, stamina, and anything involving spells. You can only wear cloth, so if an enemy gets in your face you are most likely going to die unless you have the abilities to escape. Rogue ----- You will be tops in melee combat, as you can dual-wield and create high DPS, which is damage per second, meaning your output of damage is unmatched in most cases. So long as you are alive the enemy is losing health. Your main tool is stealth, meaning you are invisible to same-level enemies until you come into contact or they are at a much higher level than you. Through stealth you can choose several methods to begin a fight, as well as solo much of the game with no outside help. Your weakness is that your armor is eaten up by damage. But by getting items to buff your agility and stamina you can stay in a battle for a fair amount of time, and several of your abilites and talents can ensure survival even in losing battles. If you want to play alone for most of the game except dungeons, go rogue. Hunter ------ Hunters are the second class to allow for easily playing alone. This is the only class to use ranged weapons to any effect as they fire much faster. Of course ranged combat is possible because of a pet, which acts likes a mini- tank for you. You need to fish and cook to get food for your pet, unless you are okay buying the food from select vendors or the auction house. Unhappy pets like to dismiss and are not effective, content pets give no damage bonus, and well-fed pets deal 25% more damage. You can see their happiness level under their life bar and check their diet under the pet tab in the character window. Against the environment you can rely on your mana pool and ranged attacks as your pet and abilities can keep the enemies at bay. In player versus player you could lean more to agility and stamina, just like a rogue, as the other players will not attack your pet. At level 40 you can use mail armor. Druid ----- Druids allow for shapeshifting of animal forms to determine abilities. For the most part a druid can do anything: rogue, tank, mage, heal. And of course choosing talents down one path over the others can allow for being almost the equal of the appropriate class. For groups the druid, like all hybrids, can replace a downed component of the group. You can only wear cloth or leather, but your forms allow for different stats. Paladin ------- Yet another hybrid class with more emphasis on healing and protection of other players. Of course there is also the possibility of focusing on melee combat as well, but you cannot wield ranged weapons at all. You can wear plate armor at level 40. I feel the heal component is too strong and a bit cheap, as there is almost no way to solo a paladin in PvP with my rogue, hunter, or DK. Priest ------ Yes, your main goal is to keep your group alive. But that doesn't mean you are helpless, you can yield powerful shadow magic. Focus on stamina, intellect, spirit, and any spell buffing equipment. Of course you only have cloth armor, so you have to keep yourself alive through your own spells. You must watch out for the healing aggro you may pull in PvE. Shaman ------ This class is for the most part Horde-only, as only Draenei can be shamans for the Alliance. Shamans can focus on melee, magic, or healing depending on the talent tree progression. You are limited to leather and cloth until 40 where you can wear mail armor. This is probably the best class in the game, the most balanced at least, while requiring not a lot of micro-management of abilities. Warlock ------- This class can be one of the most powerful if played correctly. Warlocks are mostly a mage in dark form, but beyond that they rely on stamina to act as intellect in that stamina can be converted into mana. Aside from high stamina and powerful spells a warlock also possesses a minion to aid in battle. Of course warlocks have no melee game to speak of and can only wear cloth. As stated above, focus on stamina and the other spell buffs. Death Knight ------------ With Wrath installed and once you get a level 55 character you can create a Death Knight, or DK, in any race. The training takes a while to get through, but you emerge with all blue equipment and are probably a level away from 59 and ready to hit the battle- grounds. You have three paths, and I've been down two. From what I gather, frost is just going all tank; unholy allows for a pet and some nice abilities, but most of those abilities have little benefit for the micro-management involved; while Blood seems the only wise choice with self-healing and strong, passive abilities that let you just fight. ===================== Horde versus Alliance ===================== Summary ------- Humans, Night Elves, Dwarves, Gnomes, and Draenei are Alliance, or good. Orcs, Forsaken, Tauren (bulls), Trolls, and Blood Elves are Horde, or bad. Though you may find it interesting to find out that Tauren and Forsaken are not actually all-evil, and quite possibly none of the Horde is "evil." You won't run into this battle of good and evil very often in PvE realms (player versus environment), but it's more than half the game in PvP realms (player vs player). There is no difference in which you choose other than the decor and what kind of other players you see all the time, but the quests don't vary too much until about level 30 as the whole world opens up, both continents, and quests are similar and in the same areas for both factions. PvP vs PvE ---------- I will say that the background of the horde classifies them as "brute force with small numbers." It makes sense because I'll bet most WoW players start with the Alliance and then make a horde character after. But don't be shocked if you choose a low-medium population realm and find the other faction is dominant. For chat you can't understand the other faction. In PvE it's you and the game, with you deciding when to interact in combat with the other faction's players. This is the "normal" gameplay if you are just starting to play Warcraft. The next step is PvP realms in which you can be attacked at any moment. Since this is not the start of World of Warcraft there are tons of level 80's in any realm you choose to play. Basically I'm just warning you that unless level 80's from your faction are protecting the area you play in, expect to be attacked. Rogues and druids are probably the best choice in PvP since you can disappear when needed. But again, I suggest you play on a PvP realm after you've played on a PvE realm for some time. *NOTE: Since realms are not connected you can't make a 80 on one and support a character in a different realm. You also cannot support a character of yours on the other faction, even in on the same realm. Nor can you befriend the other side, no matter how much they may help you.* *NOTE: You're subject to "ganking" in PvP, which means people can feast on low level characters, camp at graveyards, camp your body, kill quest givers, rogues can stealth you at any moment, and so on. This is why PvP is basically like playing WoW on HARD, and why you need to play on the PvE first so your questing in PvP will take less time. Nevermind you can put WoW on HARDER if you play the less-popular faction on a PvP realm.* *NOTE: I believe from level 1-20 your PvP flag is not on in PvP realms.* You can make a DK on any realm once one character is 55 and you have WotLK installed, you can make level 55 Death Knights on a PvP realm, but of course that isn't a huge advantage, you just avoid early game PvP. Universal PvP ------------- There are battlegrounds in which you basically play multiplayer against the other faction. There is one you can enter from level 10, Warsong Gulch. These are all accessible from a "battle room" area in a major city, or in the region where the battleground is "taking place". They work from groups 1-9, meaning level 11's and 19's play in one game, 21's and 29's. Of course the 0's play in the correct group as well, with the exceptions being 60's being the last level allowed in Alterac and 80's having their own grounds. Basically you want to be at least near the last accepted level for your grouping to not be a detriment to your team. There are also arenas in select areas, or entered like a battleground, in which you can fight in groups with near-level players. Finding these in the wild you enter PvA, player versus all, in which it's a free-for-all. In PvE there can be brief instances of PvP outside battlegrounds. Dueling is a solo combat with anyone that can be asked and declined by anyone. The other time is when a group of the other faction storm a town or city, or even a single character, though rarely. When you see someone of the other faction with their PvP flagged, meaning their name color is changed, then you can attack if you wish. Attacking a PvP turns on yours, as well as attacking NPC's of the other faction. *NOTE: The honor system rewards more for killing like-level or higher level characters. You get no honor for killing lowly players.* For PvE you'll mainly encounter small bands of enemies entering a city to cause minor damage, essentially just seeing how long they can go. Rarely, and you'll want to at least watch these, will a raiding army of the other faction enter a city and bolt for the king. This is because aside from the fun of it, they are trying to get the achievement for killing the leaders of the factions. One last note, if you're on PvE and get killed by another player you can wait 5 minutes in ghost form so that your PvP flag clears. Balance? -------- This is concerning the PvP aspect of Warcraft, no matter your realm. Are the factions balanced in skill, numbers, and classes? No, and for some obvious reasons, others not so obvious to an Alliance player such as myself. I can assure you that 10 Horde players can defeat 10 Alliance players of the same level and skill. I think a part of it is a tiny perk for Blood Elves where it says they can sometimes gain extra runic power, mana, and energy. Aside from that they have more races that can be Shaman, so that allows for extra healing. The not-so-obvious reason is that probably most Alliance players are new to WoW, and while there may be just as many good Alliance as Horde players, the fact that there are more not so good Alliance players means those players dilute battlegrounds. It's also reasonable to assume that if people do start on Alliance, that means that when they do create a Horde toon they will know their stuff better. Finally, there may be an element of "us against them" with Horde players. I don't think the last reason is as true as I may think, but there are more twink Horde than Alliance, and most likely have a little help. ----- I would say have some faction pride, but I would rather say go Alliance, so I'll say neither. One interesting thing that bugs me is that these factions must be at war with each other. In Outland and Northrend you see every camp has a mixture of the factions and races. Other than betting that paladin is the most broken class, I would say that at some point you could make any race for either faction. ============ Travel Plans ============ Humans start near Stormwind, and SW is connected to Ironforge by a tram, and IF is the city of Dwarves and Gnomes. Night Elves are to the west, but they are reached via the left-most ship in SW Harbor, or SW via the port in Auberdine for the Elves. Once in Auberdine humans and little people only need to take the other ship to reach Rut'theran Village (or Rut for short) and then step into the red light to reach the Night Elf capital of Darnassus. So essentially once you reach the major city of one race you can access all the others. And you'll want to learn all the weapons you can from each major city's trainer. All weapon trainers are near weapon shops or areas of the battlegrounds. ----- Forsaken start near the Undercity, and a zeppelin will take you to and from Orgrimmar. Then the only way to get to Thunder Bluff is by a flight path from the Orc capital or by foot. So Horde players actually have to hoof it to and from the bull town, which takes a while but isn't too dangerous. ======== Trainers ======== There are trainers for your class and professions. Simply ask a guard and they can tell you where to find your trainers. There are multiple trainers in the land and sometimes many in one area. Class trainers allow you to gain abilities and power them up. It's not that every level allows new abilities or ranks, usually every other level. Profession trainers allow you to maximize your professions and gain new things to create. They operate in units of fives, tens at the most. You gain skillup points by using your profession, according to the colors, and then visit the trainer to make new things. The trainers for gathering professions only allow your maximum skill level to increase or some other refining process. You'll need Burning Crusade with your professions at 300, 375 for Wrath, and to a max of 450 as of Wrath. =========== Professions =========== Professions are your way of contributing to the economy of Warcraft, but are not required in any way. Professions may actually slow your progress more than you realize, but in the end-game portion they will pay off with highly useful and high demand items you can make. And if you are just on the gathering end of the jobs then you only have money to gain, but possibly not as much and for more time spent. *NOTE: To use a profession you just click the spellbook icon and then click the icon of choice. I like to hot bar my professions, potions, and other seldom-used items to the right. You can add action bars through the options menu.* You can have any of two main professions, and everyone can have the same sub- professions. Here are the material professions, or "mats" for materials used in the production professions: Herbalism - collect herbs from plants. Mining - pick away at deposits. Skinning - rip the flesh from dead animals. Here are the producing professions, where you turn the mats into something: Alchemy - turn plants into potions. Blacksmithing - create weapons and armor from ore. Enchanting - disenchant rare items into things to buff other items. Tailoring is the best second profession as most of the green items can be made purely from killing humanoids. Engineering - make things out of other things. Mainly ore. Leatherworking - turn skins into leather armor, mail armor later. Also some armor kits to enhance all armor. Tailoring - make clothes out of cloths. Cloths are found off dead humanoids, but to a lesser degree you need some leathers. Jewelcrafting - turn ore into stuff. Burning Crusade needed. Inscription - create glyphs and buff scrolls. The least popular but probably the most profitable. Need herbs. Here are the sub-professions everyone can have: Fishing - gather fish. Cooking - make food for buffs and health. First Aid - the most useful where you turn cloth into bandages. Riding - go faster, but costs a ton. Obviously the gathering and producing professions go with each other. Like it would be very difficult to take on alchemy and engineering because you would have no way to get the mats for either unless you find them in small quantities from dead enemies or shell out the dough at the auction house or trades. Keep in mind that mats are always expensive on average, with the rare cheap auction for high-demand mats. Only enchanters have no true collecting counterpart, as all you have to do is find green or higher items like anyone else does. Tailoring also requires none of the gathering professions, so those two solo professions are made for each other, as you can sew up items to disenchant! The only truly useful sub-profession is first aid, where fishing and cooking require a lot of secondary effort, and first aid can be the only way some classes can heal themselves consistently. Hunters really must take on fishing and cooking to feed their pet. Early on it's cheap to add professions, so you can pick up a few, see what they require and drop for whatever you may want instead. Late in the professions all of them will require the others to advance. This does not mean you can't advance or need to take them up, it just means you'll need to rely on other players, the auction house, or your guild to help you acquire what you need. ========================= Secondary Profession Tips ========================= Now we will go a bit further into how the professions work. First are lesser professions because everyone can use those. First Aid --------- The reason to get this is to make bandages. You can't use them while fighting or while doing anything, you must be still. They allow you to not have to wait for your health to regain, and put your cloths to good use. Just like tailoring, making bandages relies on you getting dropped cloth from enemies, usually humanoids or in chests. And that's it, find the cloth, locate the first aid trainers, and make bandages. You'll need to find the trainers to go beyond the base skill max. Cooking ------- Cooked food does more than just heal you between battles, some foods can give you temporary buffs. Cooking is totally optional, but it's a must for hunters to make food for your pet. You must be near some source of heat to make food, and there is always one by the cooking trainers, but you can find others and can make your own fire. You start by just making bread using the cooking supplies, even through the yellow colors until bread is green. Don't forget to pick up and use the few recipes you get so you can turn things like spider legs and meat into cooked food, which are at least more valuable to sell. It's simple enough to start cooking, but keeping your skill up requires a little extra work for a little extra benefit. Fishing ------- Fishing does two things: get fish to cook and sometimes pick up rare items. You fish by finding a trainer, buying a rod from a vendor, equipping the rod, and then clicking the fishing icon in your spell book. With the lure in the water you just wait for it to shake and then right click it to try and catch. Best to be in a quiet place and the sound turned up, and always have your finger ready to push at any moment. As you level up there are more fishing supplies to buy that help you in your efforts. Remember, to best take advantage of fishing you need to pick up cooking so you don't eat raw fish. *NOTE: Hunters need food for their pets. You check the pet tab to see their diet and then you can know what to focus on. Remember that the better quality of food the more happiness gained when you feed it.* Riding ------ Riding allows you to move faster. Most of the time spent in Warcraft is on getting from one place to the next. So any speed advantage reduces the time spent to level up and reach end-game content. To ride you need to be at level 30, then locate your race's trainer, and finally spend about 40 gold on buying a mount and getting the training. As of now you can buy any mount from any race. I believe warlocks and paladins can summon their own mount, and engineers can make them at higher levels. But the upper level of mounts require hundreds of gold and level 60. *NOTE: You can buy spurs to equip to your boots, and find the carrot on a stick to increase speed. The carrot is obtained by visiting Mirage Raceway in Thousand Needles, getting the quest to kill the Zilla monster (I forget it's name), and going into Zul'Farrak and killing him at the pool.* ======= Talents ======= Talents are things you can advance into once you are level 10, the icon will be on your action bar. With every level up you gain a talent point. With this you can advance up (technically down) any of the three talent trees. All levels of the tree require 5 spent in the previous levels of the same tree. All classes have three different talent trees meant to guide your character to an end where they are better at one talent set than the others. Since you start at 10 and can end at 80 there are 70 talent points to spread around. Keep in mind that original end-game talents required 40 points. So now you can get a decent end skill while advancing fairly high up the other trees. But of course there are higher level talents added to each tree, but you can still reach the new ends. It's your choice to go up one tree alone or spread around the points to get at least a few of the other options. An example is that as a rogue I started up the stealth tree, but then took to the combat tree, with only a few points in the finishing move tree. As a DK I spent 30+ in blood, 10 in unholy, and the rest in frost, and I plan to focus on blood from here on out with an eye on somehow getting that ghoul from unholy. As a hunter I have all points in marksmanship, with I believe like two points in some other tree (not the first one). Some trees lead to new abilities, and most talents have different ranks. Usually the ranked talents require multiple points to get complete 100% effect of the talent, or at least the best of it. Starting Over ------------- It's wise to pick abilities wisely to start, but if not then you simply need a gold to cancel all your talents and get all the points back. You do this by visiting your class trainer, selecting the unlearn talents option, and then paying the gold. You get all your points back and can spend them as you wish. Keep in mind that ranks of your learned abilities through the talent tree will stay. So if you get the ability you learned in the talent tree back you will get the ranks you bought from the trainer. You can unlearn your talents as much as you like, but it gets more and more expensive, so try to get it right with as few of tries as possible. Don't forget that purchasing glyphs may also affect how you obtain talents. ====== Colors ====== The color scale goes: gray, white, green, yellow, orange, red, blue, purple, or at least as far as I can tell. This applies to skills, items, and quests. Skills only operate on the gray, green, yellow, orange scale. Gray means it's easy and awards you no skillup points. Green means it should be easy so you will rarely skillup. Yellow gives you a 60% chance to skillup, and oranges will always skill you up. Your skills usually work in 5's or 10's, meaning you must get 5 or 10 skill points in order to move onto the next set of things to do. *NOTE: weapon skills and lockpicking maxes only move up by five as you level.* Items go on gray, white, green, blue, purple, and the ultra-rare, end-game orange items. Gray is broken so you can toss it. White is normal and not very good. Greens are where you should be at for the most part as they are better than normal and give nice little buffs. Blues are that next tier but will also be hard to come by. You get blues either at the auction house, a reward for a big quest, or very rarely in a drop. Purples are super hard to find but by the time you get to the end game stuff you will probably get a few. There are also purples as rewards for battleground success at level 60. Oranges are things I haven't seen. *NOTE: Don't forget that if you hit battlegrounds hard, you can visit the reward house to buy nice items and mounts. This is different from the quartermasters at the zones of the battles. Like Alterac Valley, you can hit these places to buy an epic mount at level 60.* Quests work on a gray, green, yellow, and red scale. Gray means it gives only a fraction of the experience upon completion. Green means you have only a limited time until your level is too high and the quest is almost worth dropping, but you should make an effort to clear your greens. Yellow means you probably can do the quest on your own, and you get the proper experience for turning it in. Red means you should not do the quest, but completing it gives more EXP than normal. There are also gray, green, yellow, red, skull, and ?? levels of enemies. Gray means killing that enemy yields no EXP, green a little, yellow the standard amount, and red more. Skull and ?? enemies probably require a raid or are just not killable on your own or through normal means. Gray doesn't mean to toss the item, thing, or not do the skill, it just means you're not getting the most out of it. Some gray quests should be finished just so you can keep the quest link going. Gray items can be sold, and at higher levels they are worth at least a couple of flights worth of silver. And of course a lot of gray skills will be useful far beyond skilling you up. ===== Items ===== There are many different types of items, all with their own usefulness. Of course you have your equips, such as weapons and armor, but also jewelry and shirts. Then you have your support items, such as your hearthstone, skinning knife, poisons, and so on, the things you will keep no matter what. Next are the foods and waters to replenish health and mana. You'll also collect mats (materials) of both directly useable items like leather as well as the stuff you don't need, such as for cooking, other professions, or just gray items that are meant to be sold for a small amount of coin. If you hit a dungeon and get blues, for the most part, those will be sold. I know that very rarely have I even used dungeon drops or even quest rewards beyond a few levels as sometimes drop are more useful. The first quests in Hellfire at level 58 and the Northrend quests at level 68 were the only times I recall rewards being very useful. Even the dungeon drops in Hellfire didn't last as long as some of the quest rewards. There are also a lot of quest items you'll gather that will take up space. These can either be used during the quest or collected items to fulfill the quest, but since they take up space you will want to hold onto these and get them finished as soon as possible. ============= Item Bindings ============= There are 4 types of item bindings in this game: None - Usually all white quality items, mats, potions, and poor equipment will have no restrictions. Bind On Equip (BoE) - These are usually all greens you find in the wild. Any BoE can be sold at the AH, given to your guild, or traded. Once you put it on you cannot put in the AH or give to anyone else. Basically your only option after you find better equipment is to sell your old gear, unless maybe you want to hold onto them for options. Bind On Pickup (BoP) - These are the worst because they are the rewards from for killing bosses or completing quests and you cannot give them to anyone else. If you can't use them then all you can do is sell them to a vendor. Soulbound - Similar to BoP's, only these are soulbound items from quests or found in the wild. Usually just unique or quest-specific items. Items also turn Soulbound once you put on a BoE. There are also unique items, of which you can only equip one. I believe you can equip multiple items such as two weapons or two rings of green quality, but I don't think you can have two blues of the same name equipped, but for sure you can't equip two of the same uniques. The purpose of bindings is so that you can't do two things: have a hand-me- down system for any alternates, and to prevent players from farming boss drops for gold. All dungeons usually have one boss drop that can be sold and is always there, but the rest of the assured boss drops are either to be used or sold to a vendor. =============== Item Management =============== Bags ---- Through your early quests you'll get your 6-8 slot bags. One thing to keep in mind is that only hunters need a quiver or ammo bag. NONE of the other classes should waste a bag slot on an ammo container. Early on it may also be cheaper to buy your bags from vendors. And from 10 to 14 slot bags you should be able to get them cheaper from the AH than vendors. 16 slot bags are found rarely in the wild, so you those and up are bought only at the AH. I depends on your realm the prices of these, but perhaps it would be cheaper to ask a guildie to make one for you. Sometimes you can pick up 10+ bags from a guild bank. Tossing Items ------------- The general rule of thumb is to sell anything you find that is gray. If in the field you can just toss it if your bags are full. But if you are collecting things from enemies and you get a lot of the same items then perhaps it's best to toss something else so you aren't constantly tossing the same items, though that may be the best. It's always wise to drop gray equipment before gray weapons. Late in the game it may be wise to drop white items, even of your professions if in small quantities and below what you're using. It may even be good to drop potions and bandages before anything else. Sharing the Wealth ------------------ If in a guild then anything white can probably be given to your guild bank, such as water if you don't need mana, or extra food and potions that no longer help you. This does not mean white equipment or weapons. As for green items, or greens or uncommons, those need to be handled much differently. All greens you collect in the field should make it back to town with you. Now I'm not saying run to town when you get a green, unless you somehow get in that position, but when full packs appear you really need to do all in your power to keep all your greens. The reason is not only to possibly make fair trades with your guild bank and use yourself, but to also sell at the auction house. Very rarely is it best to sell a green directly to a vendor. It is interesting at high levels when the deposit at the AH for items is near the price you would sell it for, and possibly less than the gold you make with a vendor. *NOTE: After level 40 if your item is common and not going for much gold in the AH, auction house, then perhaps it's going for a respectable sell price with the vendors.* Banking It ---------- You will also find your way to the bank in a city where you can store any items you can. These banks are expensive beyond the default slots because you must purchase a bag slot and have a spare bag. A recipe or anything for your profession that you can't use any time soon goes in the bank. Same with any mats you find that you can't use, such as pulling some leather from a guild bank for later. If there are things you can use after a level or two then you should hold onto those. In what can only be described as a bad idea you can also store items in the bank you just don't want to let go, although you will never use them. *NOTE: For those mindful of alternates, consider holding onto all recipes. Of course this may be costly, but it shouldn't be if you actually have alts to use or hold those recipes.* White items not weapons or armors are most likely needed by someone as a mat. It's very tricky, but most mats can be used by you, if not for a direct recipe then perhaps as a mat for something you want that someone else can make, such as an enchanter or alchemist. Anything green that you don't know what it's used for needs to be kept until you find its use, probably on the internet. A bad idea is to store other weapon and armor "options." This is because for only a few reasons would you need to swap weapons; so it's usually best to just sell something once you've chosen something else, unless you're unsure which item benefits you more, then maybe hold onto both. Maybe tanks need to hold onto extra pieces of gear for dungeons as you will take a beating. It is nice if all damage dealers keep at least one spare weapon in case a dungeon drags on forever. For items you will never use, don't want to sell, don't want to toss, and things you want to keep probably need to be given to a mule. I like to write down their names, check the internet, and then decide if it's best to toss such items. ==== Mule ==== No, I did not title a section by a random mammal. A mule in WoW is a character you make on a server with the purpose of holding extra items from your main character. You can make 10 characters on a server, so you can abuse that as you wish, but I can safely say that for a level 60 main I only needed one mule, with "needed" being purely subjective. *NOTE: Upon thinking about it, I think with three characters and knowing what items I have no use for I don't think I really have a mule, just an enchanter holding items to disenchant for later and holding tons of runecloth.* From a gameplay point of view it's wise to get your mule to at least level 15 so you can see how another class or race plays, but if you want to make a character and run it to a city for muling then that is fine too. This is easier for humans on Alliance. All you need is the mule to be in a major city, receive mail sent from your main character, and then deposit the items in the mule's bank. Of course gold is used for extra bank space, so bags and gold need to be sent to a mule for heavy storage. Another cool thing is if your main is off in the wild and not ready to return to civilization, but by a mailbox, then it's possible for the mule to receive money and either buy materials or keep in touch with the auction house. This is not a very effective way of playing, but a nice option if you want to keep your main in Northrend or Outland for an extended period with a home point in that region. And yes, you can have a level 1 in a one person guild for extra storage, but that's a little too much abuse for my liking. You also need 100G for a bank tab anyway. It may be a wise idea once you have a nice collection of toons and they can all share a guild bank. I do not encourage you to bypass buying more bags just because you can mule. You need your own bags and space when entering higher level dungeons, mainly because the dungeons are long and you will need as much space as possible. Don't let muling turn into the next disease though. ======== Alt-itis ======== This is a disease you contract when you create many characters but do not play them beyond so long, while at the same time you have a much higher level main character. You'll notice that WoW starts fast, with levels advanced very quickly, you will hit level 20 in less than a week with no problems, much farther if you know what you're doing. Even 20-40 is pretty darn fast and exciting. But then you hit that wall getting to 50, I know I did. At this point not only do you start a mule, but you'll most likely want to tamper with the different types of realms. If you played the battlegrounds to failure then you probably want to get a rogue, hunter, druid so you can rule a battleground at the maximum level for maximum fun. I encourage you to play your main character far more than your alternates or mules. It's not illegal to sign them up for guilds not your main's, but you also don't want to abuse guild privilages because aside from being uncool your actions don't go unnoticed. Maybe give an hour to starting new characters on other realms, not much because once you start networks of characters on different realms, then you may be talking about a real-life problem, or less a quality of play across your characters. I would say three characters on one realm is a nice number. For me, I needed to at least start a little on the classes to test them out, but I strongly encourage you to think about three classes you want and stick to them. ========================= Smart-Character Creations ========================= This section is to better help you get an idea of what characters to create. It may be best to just go with one, but no matter what you'll create at least three before one character hits 80. Three Classes ------------- There are many kinds of characters to have: DPS - rogue, hunter, casters, and talent specs of other classes. Tank - warrior, paladin, and DK. Heal - priest, pally, shaman, or druid. There are also different play styles to think about: Melee - rogue, warrior, paladin, DK. Caster - mage, warlock, druid, priest, shaman. Ranged - hunter, any caster. ALL classes can have a DPS spec, so any class can cause damage, that is not the focus of this. If you want DPS then I say either get a rogue or hunter. If you want a tank, get a warrior or paladin. If you want a healer, get a priest or druid. Here are what I think are the best three classes to play: DPS - rogue Tank - paladin Heal - priest Not only do those three choices get you a nice stable of character styles, they also allow you to get three profession types that they can use. Your rogue can work leather and skin, your pally can mine and most likely jewelcrafting, and your priest can gather herbs and enchant. All three can gather to sell at the auction while at the same time advance their professions. Making Money ------------ Here is a list of where I rank the needs of the creation professions, including auction house prices and demand: Enchanting - 50% Jewelcrafting - 30% Leatherworking - 5% Blacksmithing - 5% Tailoring - 4% Inscription - 4% (mostly all AH) Alchemy - 2% (pray you got mucho twinks on your realm) Enchanting requires you to almost get it to 450 to become a solid money-maker, and even then it's not like there is promised money. The biggest knock against enchanting is that most will offer for free if you have the mats, so you could end up making no money unless you sell your stuff at the AH. Then if you want to make mad money you'll have to devote a lot of time selling your service and running around to the people that need you. Personally, I would only enchant so I could have someone disenchant items for me so other enchanters can enchant for me. Or so the enchanter can enchant AH stuff (which won't help you enchant your level 80's for much). The three gathering professions, skinning, mining, and herbalism can be used to make you promised money. Everyone uses these, and everyone will pay for the materials at any level. The easiest one for money is mining, since you don't always have to kill things and can track the nodes on your map. So if you want to max your money-making potential and guarantee you can always earn money, pick up enchanting and mining. The Death Knight ---------------- One interesting thing about your DK is that you can pick up any professions you want, and in little time that DK can be either a valuable support to your main or a cash cow. First you should know that enchanting is hard for a DK because most enchanters get items from quest rewards, creations, or cheap buys at the AH. So let's be clear that Enchanting is only for a character you start from scratch, or if you're ready to do a bunch of low-levels as a DK, defeating the benefit of starting at level 55. Maybe if you're a tailor as well and hit dungeons, but this is only if your main(s) don't enchant and you want one badly. Second you should realize that almost 50% of the people in Outland are DK's, none of which have professions. So the Outland can be used by your DK to farm mats without much interruption. Last is that any profession other than enchanting can be easily farmed in Azeroth. Mining/herbs are easy to get as a DK because you have a fast mount and only draw aggro in a few areas, meaning you can ride around mostly unhindered. So it's safe to say that at DK can herb or mine, but not both since you can't track both - maybe if you have good eyes and don't ride too fast, but most are tricky to find. There are only three creation professions a wise DK should pick up: jewel- crafting, alchemy, and inscription. Leatherworking/skinning both require you kill beasts, and most LW is best for a rogue or hunter who can use them. Blacksmithing/engineering also advance smoother as you level. Tailoring for a DK requires running dungeons, but other than bags you aren't making a ton of money until then. Everyone can use glyphs, everyone can drink potions, and jewelcrafting is easily the second most popular profession. Personally, a mining and JC Death Knight is the smartest option to both make items all your characters can use and make easy money when you need it. One thing to consider as a DK is to maybe buy a bunch of bags and just go around gather mats without stopping for much. And once at 300 of gathering, then pick up the profession to use those and see how far you can get. It could cut a lot of time, but you still need to train the gathering profession anyway, so maybe taking both at the same time will work fine. ----- No matter what you do in creating a character and picking professions, don't think that they will all be easy or take little time. Professions require levels, and all professions draw off each other to advance. Only with three balance, same-level characters could you expect to pay no money for 98% of the mats all three would need. ====== Guilds ====== Guilds are the most social aspect of Warcraft, since guild members are willing to help you more often than others, they are accountable more so than other strangers, and the guild chat will follow you no matter where you are. What is a Guild? ---------------- It's simply a group you associate with and should have common ground with, who will at least help you if in need of something. A guild can be nothing more than a chat room or access to a guild bank for some. That title under players in the game enclosed by is their guild. Size Matters ------------ Joining a small guild usually means there is little chat, little help, and not much benefit for you other than the title. It may also be better to form closer bounds and more concrete relationships. However, large guilds can be unruly and possibly tyrannical with too many restrictions and rules. But of course a lack of rules could lead to theft of the bank, spammed chat, and not much help. It's best to get a good feel of a guild before you join. I would advise you join a guild looking to "boost our numbers" or waiting to join the guild of a friend you either know in person or meet in the game. Chat ---- You press 'enter' and type '/g' to enter the guild chat. Your guild chat is connected to you no matter where everyone is. This means that you'll have something to do no matter where you are, can ask for help, or can see if anyone else is doing something of interest to you. Guild Bank ---------- The guild banks are located by the banks in major cities, or wherever banks are found. The guild bank is the most important aspect of a guild because it allows the transfer of free items from one person to another. Here are my rules for a GB: #1. Take only what you can use or need, or can use real soon. #2. Give back items you can no longer use, such as potions, and mats you can't use. Items you can't sell at the AH but that are not complete trash should be given to your guild. #3. DO NOT give any gray items. Not even white weapons or armor. #4. If there are items you can no longer use for you profession, and the bank is getting full, wait a few days or so until you take those, and only on days when you haven't used your allowed takes. #5. It's always nice to trade something for what you take. Most guilds won't have rulse for this, but anything of use should be traded for something you take. Some guilds charge fees and taxes, others don't. Some allow for withdrawals and/or paid repairs, others don't. These things may be the more important info to learn about a guild. My guild doesn't ask for money, but also doesn't let me take money or take money, but that's fine. I think the quicker we get that sixth tab the quicker they will open the coffers. Guild Meetings/Events --------------------- If there is a meeting or event, especially if invited, you should attend or at least say you can't go. Don't laugh or make a mockery of whatever happens, just go with the flow and stay quiet if things get too nerdy. Invited/Inviting ---------------- It's not wise to invite any stranger to your guild or accept any invitation. That seems odd since I accepted a random invitation to what has turned out to be a large, diverse, and cool guild, but I would still advise against it. You don't invite people to your guild unless you are the leader. If you want to invite someone then ask an officer or the leader first. If you don't then that person may get in the bank, grab what they want, and then leave the guild. Not cool. Joining ------- Joining a guild is done through many ways. My guild requires online registration, although I was recruited in-game. Usually someone in the game will announce they are accepting members, and if you meet the requirements then you can whisper and ask for more. There are many types of guilds, so be sure you know what you're getting into. Standard - just a guild of members who have no real goals or specialization. This is my type of guild with no real rules, just people who can help when needed. These are usually the larger guilds, with just as many people as they want. Twink - Twink guilds are cool with the fact that your character is not your main, none in the guild are apparently. These should be cool with giving out nice equipment and possibly allowing for equipment for your main. Leveling - This type is more designed for helping each other complete dungeons and level up when needed, more so than the others. They are also okay with you leaving once you are leveled up nicely. High-Level - These guilds either want high level characters or want you to be one in hurry, and they will help you get there. These are all called "end-game" guilds as they desire to reach a point of "completion," or at least finish the hardest dungeons. Racial/Class - I have not run into a racial guild, probably best, but for a class like rogue it may be best to join a class-only guild where all know the others' needs. Of course effective groups for non-hybrid classes will be difficult to muster within these guilds. New - These are either for people who want a single-person guild for storage, or they are a real new guild. Joining a new guild can be a disaster or blessing, it all depends on whether the others are near or far above your level. Sign-for-Gold - I don't know if this is a popular option, but if you want to play the game without a guild to stay with, you can look for chat messages asking for you to sign for a payment. These are usually for people wanting their own guild to themselves, so they will want to pay you and then allow you to leave. So you can essentially help these people out for free gold, since most new players join real guilds there isn't exactly a constant flow of un-guilded players in any realm. *NOTE: I think you must stay signed with one guild until it is formed, then you can leave or sign with another. I'm not entirely sure when you can sign with another guild or charter.* Theft ----- Guilds are very aware of what you take, there are logs that keep track of what each member takes and gives. Nothing can be done if you take stuff at your level and can use, but if you start taking weapons and items you can't use or don't need then expect to be either warned against it or kicked. If you are low on money then it's best to ask a guild member for a small donation, especially a level 80, rather than take something to sell. Usually you need to have a good rep and get promoted to access the good stuff in the guild bank anyway. But if you can trade for anything then that is most likely fine. Leaving ------- You should at least notify someone you are leaving, or mail the leader, if not provide some notice ahead of time. It's not a crime to just walk away, but it sorta is if you've taken more than you've given to the guild. Trust me, they keep records and can spread the word you were not very cool. Starting Your Own ----------------- You simply find the guild master in the city and purchase a charter for 10 silver. You then find 9 players to sign it and turn it in to the master to form the guild. You need to keep the charter in your backpack due to a bug. Once you have a guild ready you can design a tabard for 10G, and all tabards cost 50 S, but usually provided by the guild in the bank. A tabard is of no benefit other than visual appeal, and if ugly then maybe it's best to tuck your tabard in your pack. It costs 9350G for all six guild bank tabs, going from 100, 250, 500, 1000, 2500, and 5000. The permissions, promotions, icons, design, kicks, and recruits are all under the control the leader. Don't get any officers or allow any powers to others that you can't trust fully. I would say you make a guild once you've hit level 80 and have maxed out your gear. At that point your guild has nothing to offer you, so you may as well use your powers for good. If you are impatient or people don't like you then that is the cue to not make a guild or disband or step down as the leader *NOTE: Wouldn't it be weird if the leader of guild dies in real life and no one in the guild knows? That's like gonna be an issue 40 years from now... just think about it, applies to the whole internet actually. But I'll always be here, and so will you.* ============ Getting Help ============ There are many ways in which you can get help for playing this game. First is to use a website like wowwiki.com, thottbot.com, or many others, but I use wowwiki because I just do. There are other exterior ways to help. One is by using add-ons, and don't ask me how to install them or what they are, I just know they exist. Second is to buy a guide, or use this one! I found an auction on eBay for both a base game and Burning Crusade guides for just about $5. They aren't walkthroughs or help with all my problems, but they have maps and some nice info. For in-game help you have chat. Below I'll outline the many kinds of chat, but all you need to know is that there is nothing wrong with asking a question to your fellow gamers. This is half the reason to join a guild, so familiar players can help you play. Trust me, at level 50 I was still learning lots, and there are many things I still don't know. Quest logs, tutorials, scroll-overs, and guards can also offer help. Quests will always at least point you in the right direction, although later they do become less and less helpful. Scroll-overs are when you put your pointer over something and sometimes text will appear to help you use it. Guards in most cities and other places can tell you where to find all the major NPC's you need, such as your trainers, and other locations. You can also use the tracking button near your mini-map to find certain things in town. This is the same tracking hunters have to track enemies. Even some professions like mining allow for tracking of things. ====== Social ====== Friends ------- Be sure to be picky with who you add to your friends list. It's okay to add someone nice and helpful after a dungeon or group quest, but most of the people you add that way will never come into contact with you. You can add friends by selecting their portrait, opening your social tab, and selecting add friend, or select add friend and type their name. Friends will appear to you with light blue name tags when you see them. Who --- The Who tab in your social menu is used to find someone who you can't see or have not seen in chat. This is really only used to find someone that a group member says to add, or maybe for other obscure reasons. LFG/LFM ------- Chat channel /4 is for when you open the group tab and select that you are looking to run a dungeon. Of course few use this because advertising in trade or general or guild chat is easier. Chat ---- You can open chat from social and see who is on a channel, even make your own channels. You have different commands to enter to go into different chats, just press ENTER and the following, then SPACE: /s - Say, the base chat where you speak to anyone nearby. /y - Yell, yells your phrase to people with a large area, not always the entire map. /1 - General, the chat for the map you are in. /2 - Trade, for the only channel that connects all your cities, but can only be entered from within a city. /g - Guild, join your guild's chat channel. /p - Party, talk to only people in your party. /bg - Battleground, used when in a PvP battleground. /raid - Raid, talk within your raid. Be nice in all chat, don't pick a fight with anyone, trust me, it's much easier to ignore someone than argue with them. Whenever speaking, make sure you are not confusing or saying something off- color, you're speaking to many different kinds people, not just a bunch of hip 20-somethings. One nice tip is that when anyone uses chat you can shift click their name to find out their level, where they are, class, and what guild they are in. Useful for getting around having to find things out through asking them. Party ----- A party is formed by right clicking on someone's portrait or their name in chat and selecting "Invite". You can have five players in one party, and with a group you can beat any quest. With a party of 3 DPS, 1 tank, and 1 healer you can clear any dungeon - of course your levels must match whatever you are doing. Groups are temporary and disband shortly after the quest is done. If a party breaks up before then someone has not been a good team-player. Always check the looting of a group, and keep your eye out for people that try to take all the rewards. Raid ---- You won't these much until you raid the other faction's cities or attack the end-game dungeons. The raids in Azeroth and Outland are out-dated and not required or wise other than for achievements, rep, and the experience of doing them (not XP however). Raids can be 10, 25, or 40 large, and you can only complete "RAID" quests while in a raid. It's best to join a raiding guild, or if your guild will lead a raid. Joining random raids is not wise because they tend to not form, fall apart upon formation, or someone will be a loot ninja or not follow directions and ruin the whole raid. You have a raid tab in your social menu, and this will help you see who is in your raid and see if you're raid is balanced. Looting ------- Group looting is the base looting system, where everyone gets a turn to loot a corpse alone. Once you open and close the corpse without taking all the loot it will become open to anyone. Loot Master requires someone of trust and honesty, so it's not seen very often. With a master looter that person decides who gets what. This is mostly best in raids when people may NEED things they can't use, so that master can determine who gets what, usually by rolling manually (the /roll command). Free-for-all is not wise because then you allow someone to skip fighting and go loot. It's also bad for anyone with laggy connections. Ffa looting should only be done when it's a two-person party and one person needs none of the loot. Even with 3 people, someone may get left out. ====== Levels ====== There is a bar over your standard action bar that measures your experience, or EXP, until you advance. You can mouse over this bar to see how much you have to go. Staying in a city, town, or safe area will turn this bar blue and you will enter a state of "rested" in which you gain double EXP. Basically if you don't play a character for a period of time then you are rested for much longer. This is a way to reward you for not playing the game constantly. Your "rested" amount depletes with kills, not by turning in quests. Of course killing monsters is the main way to gain EXP, but you also gain a large share by completing quests. Completion EXP is near the amount of how much you gain by killing a similar amount of enemies, or close to it. A standard "fetch" quest nets probably a unit of your EXP bar, while killing a dungeon boss is closer to two or three units. You also gain small amounts of EXP through exploration. These are not meant as much early, but late you can fill many units on your EXP bar through finishing your maps. Your level determines what abilities you can train, equipment you can wear and use, quests and areas you can enter safely, battlegrounds you can enter, profession skills, and given talent points. ====== Quests ====== The game is based on you finishing quests in order to gain experience, explore, earn coin, and get new items. You find quests by finding the NPC's on your mini-map or by just finding those who have exclamation marks over their heads. You round up to 25 quests and then go out and complete them. There is a single button to bring up your quest log and by following the ones in your path or nearby you can maximize your leveling potentional much faster than most. A very key tip to finishing quests faster is to round up all the quests that take place in one area. Knowledge of the land is key if your log is fairly full, but if not then you can just get them all and head to the area where the most take place, which is usually in an area with lots of things happening. And if you end up in a place with lots of activity and have no quests then there is probably some town with quests to pick up. *NOTE: I prefer to tackle the "easier" ones in an area, turn them in, see if the new ones are connected to the others, and then go out. It's unwise to go into a dungeon with only a handful of quests. For dungeons I suggest using an internet source so you can find if not most at least the ones easiest to obtain, then go into the dungeon.* When you have a quest and don't feel up to reading, then here is the guide to dissecting a quest file. There is a who, why, and what part, and it's the what part that you need because it tells you what you need to do. And if you don't pick it up from the top where there is usually a number required, then find the what part to learn what you must do. Although some quests are tricky in that you must also find the where part, and there may be two wheres. One that tells you where to go first and another for where you end. There are three types of quests: go, report, and collect. The vast majority are collection quests in which you either find stuff or kill things to get the stuff, also called "fetch" quests. Go quests mean you just get to one area, usually with the intentions of leading you to more quests. Report quests mean you find something and then report back, usually not requiring any direct fighting. Pay attention the quest color. You don't want to let green quests go grey, but you also don't want to drop all grey quests. If a quest goes grey then perhaps you need to quickly finish it to see if the completion leads to another. It's also not wise to take on too many quests in the other races' areas as you want to build rep with your race and area. Of course you can do all the quests of your faction, and most lead to the same ends, but if you make multiple characters then just stay to your areas so you can play the game from all angles. ============= Killing Stuff ============= Otherwise known as combat or fighting, is the main point of this game. You kill stuff, get money, rewards, and XP to level up. But there are a few more things to keep in mind other than just attacking something. Aggro ----- This is the concept upon which this and many other MMO's are based. Aggro is basically an invisible circle under your feet and under all the enemies in the game. If the circles touch, then you draw aggro. This circle grows in relation with your level to the enemy's. If you are lower than something then your circle is bigger. If you are higher than them then your circle is smaller. You can increase your aggro by three ways: attacking, healing, or using a threat increasing skill. There are no reasons to worry yourself of aggro when fighting one-on-one, it's when in a group or raid when aggro becomes key to not dying. A tank draws aggro by increasing threat and giving honest damage so that the monsters stay on the tank. If someone is putting more DPS on the same monster then it won't take long for the monster to attack someone other than the tank. Healing too much will also draw an enemy. Healing aggro mainly affects when a lower level is healed, which makes sense so players couldn't do some quests with just a high level healer at their side. Rogues generate less threat than most, and can lower threat with Feint. I'm not sure if other can reduce threat, but so long as you don't do a lot of damage you won't draw aggro. Crowd Control ------------- This means that you will reduce the amount of things attacking you or your group. Sap from rogues and polymorph from mages are a form of CC which can turn a 4 enemy mob of elites into 2. There are other ways of CC while fighting, such as Blind and Fear. Level ----- No reason to attack stuff higher level, because with just their base stats they can put up a fight with any twink. Eight levels below yours and the thing should die easily, quickly, and without much effort. A couple of levels above you and it will require max effort to survive. Of course the more low levels you face the more likely you will fail. You would be surprised how easily a level 60 can solo a mob of 20s and take little damage, but that same 60 would die to three or four 50's. Elites ------ Elites are either boss enemies or stronger mobs. An elite, non-boss is the same as a normal enemy level plus eight. So a level 40 elite is like a level 48 normal enemy. Boss elites are just super-strong, huge health enemies that require more than one of you to kill. Bosses can vary greatly, it all depends on how much health one has. Different Worlds ---------------- There have been two expansions to a base Warcraft game, so there are some differences with the enemies in each "world". The best example of this is that a level 80 could solo probably every Azeroth dungeon, mabye some potions and scrolls for a few. Certainly there is no wild Elite that a level 70 or 80 couldn't handle. It's a matter of gear, where Burning Crusade gear is so much better than "Old World" gear, and Northend Gear is even better than the best BC gear. Only purples from one world to the other may last you five levels into the next world, but blues from one world will be less than greens from the next. ============== Smart-Leveling ============== Basics ------ There are only two ways to choose to level: doing more low level stuff or fewer same level stuff. Attacking green monsters and doing green quests does not reduce much the XP you get, and they are always easy to complete. You can do a ton of these for half the effort and the same result as fewere yellow quests. By doing yellow quests it's unclear if they will be simple. Sometimes they are if your gear is good and the quest is simple. But if you don't know what to do or the quest is just one of those oddly tough quests, it could prove a real time killer. It's not really worth the time to complete red quests, especially if they are out of the way. But if you have gear or help, feel free to try a red or orange quest. Focused ------- 58 and 68 are crucial levels because the next world is open for you. Not only do the next worlds always give more gold and XP than the last, they also give much better and easy gear. They of course require each expansion pack installed. 1-10 - all done in your starting zone and map. 10-20 - all races have two second zones, but at this point you can mix and match going to the next zone of another race's city. 20-30 - you'll finish in the second zone of choice, then you'll probably start into one of the many "contested territories" in which Horde and Alliance share. 30-40 - Stranglethorn Vale and Ashenvale are prime areas for this. 40-50 - Finish STV, then go to Tanaris. 50-55 - Un'Goro Crater for sure, or maybe Searing Gorge. *You may now create a Death Knight* 55-58 - Silithus, Winterspring, or Eastern Plaguelands 58-68 - Get your butt through the Dark Portal in Blasted Lands and start questing in Hellfire, then anywhere else (can probably skip Stonetalon, Shadowmoon Valley, and Netherstorm) 68-75 - Use the boat at the SW Harbor to reach the Borean Tundra, or the boat at Menethil Harbor to reach the Howling Fjord. 75-80 - All the remaining Northrend. Azeroth Raids and Quel'Thalas are areas meant for the end of base WoW and BC respectively. The rewards from Azeroth raids are just not worth the time. You may as well level alone and move on to Outland. Intestingly, I was able to reach 68 by questing fully in Hellfire and Zanga- marsh - I didn't even travel to the other zones. In Outland you can do some of Hellfire and then go to Nagrand, Stonetalon, or the forest if you wish. For Northrend, the starting quests in the Fjord and Tundra offer nice rewards, and could allow you a nice pool of weapons if you do both at the same time. And unlike Outland, you'll most likely need nearly all the zones in Northrend to reach 80. Solo vs Groups -------------- An interesting note is that while dungeon and group rewards are much better than solo rewards, usually, it will take less time and effort to do solo quests than to do groups, be it groups for quest or dungeon. So you could level faster by doing only solo quests, and there are enough at all levels to level up. Group quests should be done by asking on the local chat, asking if anyone needs those to. NEVER stop questing to wait for a group to form, that is not time efficeint. Dungeons should be tackled with your guild, or when you see someone saying they need your type to help. Waiting so you can complete and dungeon is not wise either. Raids should be done with your guild or when you see someone ask. Of course, you don't NEED any raids until you reach 80, so all the rest are of no concern. ======================= Economy & Auction House ======================= Economy ------- The economy of WoW is constantly in flux. There are only two sources of gold from the game: drops and rewards. You can both get dropped gold or items from things, and you can get rewarded gold or items to sell to vendors for gold. These are the only ways to get gold on your own. Then there is circulated gold, which is all the gold of the players on your server. There are many ways to get gold from other players: given, trades, or from the Auction House. Players can give you gold through trades or through mail, of course they either need a ton so they can spare some or they must really like you. Trades are either trades or tips for services, such as enchanting or any other work that has no set price. And the auction house is a beast all its own. It's interesting what items you should vendor, meaning you sell to any selling NPC, and what items you can put in the AH. Late in the game you could possibly make more money from a vendor than trying and failing to sell something at the AH. It really takes a knowledge of what may or may not sell - supply and demand of course. Auction House ------------- Buying - you select from the tabs to narrow your search using any number of listings, you can set what level range, and then search; or type in the exact name of the item; or shift click the item if you have one. Bid - you enter the current bid amount, which leaves open the chance for someone to outbid you. The time left is a big factor in whether or not you win the item. Short means you'll probably get it, medium is iffy, and long or very long means you should hope the item is not in high demand. Buyout - you select the buyout price and you get the item with no waiting. This is usually a higher price than the bid, but if you don't need the item that badly you should bid instead. Bidding On - there is a tab for all your bids, where you can bid again. Keep in mind you cannot cancel a bid. Winning - when you win an item it will immediately appear in your mailbox. Gear? - sometimes you may want to replace your gear with better gear, and short of researching quest rewards online, you may want to just replace gear that is three or more levels below what you currently have. You'll have much less money later in the game if you keep buying new gear for every level. Blue vs Green - always make sure you aren't paying too much for a green item when you could pay a little more for a blue. 20gold for a green item is never a good idea, you may as well spend a little more for a blue if you want better gear that badly. Twink Gear - 19, 29, 39, 49, 59, 69, 79, and 80 are levels to be cautious of because many players want the best gear for battlegrounds. Rarely do you find gear at this level for a low price, but if you do you could make money by selling it yourself, and if you find gear at these levels someone will buy it for a higher price than you think. Change of Worlds - at level 56-60 you should not buy new gear, same for 66-70. This is because your first quests in Outland and Northrend will gear you up. If you do buy gear at these ranges you need to make sure you're getting the set from the next world, it's always better. Dungeons? - it may be worth it to check the dungeons at your level online, research the quests, and see if those rewards would be better than spending money for gear. It's the least you could do. Selling - there is an art to selling items in the AH. 50% of items you can sell are not going to sell. Enchanters always want cheap gear to DE, but the price they would pay is most likely less than the vendor price for most high- level items. Deposit Fee - this is the most important thing about the AH, that all items you want to sell have a fee. High level gear has a very hefty fee, and you don't get the fee back if you item does not sell. Early in the game you can get away with putting everything on the AH because the fees are not so bad, just one sold item can cover all your fees. But late in the game, where items are sought after less and less, you may be costing yourself some serious gold by putting everything on the AH block. If your item does sell however, you get the fee back. Starting Bid - there is a base bid set by default, so your starting bid should not be lower, if it is or if the market is set lower than that, consider vendoring it. It's always nice to set the starting bid a little higher, maybe round up to the next gold amount. Buyout - should never be unreasonable because people want to get the item now, they do not want to wait. If you set it near your starting bid they you will most likely sell it. You set it higher above if you know it's in higher demand and if there is little supply. And you set it 10's of gold higher if you know some twink will pick it up or you have the only item on the market. However, you don't have to set a buyout, sometimes it could be better to let people bid for it, or you may get less, there are no rules for what to not give a buyout. Undercutting? - It's cool if you price a few silver under the lowest price, but too much and you may be lowering the market price for that item, and at the very least making less money than you could. Know the Classes - I won't summarize every class in the game, but you should know who each piece of gear and weapon is used by. People Got Cash - most low levels on a realm are in fact people with 80's, so with that in mind you can set the buyouts for some items much higher than the starting bid. Materials - or mats, are always in demand. Only overpriced mats will not sell. For selling mats you could consider not being the lowest price because of the higher demand, someone will buy the cheaper ones first, and eventually should place yours as the cheapest. Also, most fees for mats are cheap. Trade Chat ---------- Using /2 chat for selling and buying is a harsh monster. Not only do you limit your selling power to who is on now, they must be in a city, and so must you. Not even using a town mule can get around the time required to sell items by hand. WTS - this is the abbreviation for selling something, "Want To Sell." Then you shift click the item, maybe press enter, and your ad is put on trade chat. A simple message may look like: WTS [Your Momma] 1g. Don't be surprised if no one is interested. Things that sell in the AH may have only be demanded by two or three people, so the odds are not good that those people are on when you are, or if they see the message. WTB - "Want To Buy" means just that. You can again shift click if you have the item and send a message just like WTS. WTT - "Want To Trade" is a seldom seen message meaning you don't want to buy something, you instead want to do an even trade. ***************************************************************************** * 5. Classes ( CLAS555 ) * ***************************************************************************** ===== Rogue ===== Summary ------- This is the class I know the most about, so naturally I'll give all the advice I can. You have three options to pursue as a rogue: stealth, combat, or assassination (burst damage). I on my first build have choosen a 20 stealth, most of the rest in combat build, with only a few points maybe on the first critical talent block in assassination. Recently I have switched to all subtlety because those final abilities work well for me. You can have all weapons except two-handed, polearms, staves, and axes. You can only have cloth and leather armor, again, go for "of the Monkey" or pure agility, although agility and stamina should be the standard. You want to focus on daggers, since your abilities and talents lean that way, but since you can dual-wield you can just have a dagger in the main hand and anything else in the other, except a shield. *NOTE: Of course combat rogues can focus on swords or maces, it's just up to you as far as what weapons you want.* At level 20 you can purchase poisons from the poison vendors, usually near the rogue trainers. Aside from using Energy, a rogue also relies on combo points to use their more powerful attacks. These are finishing moves, the assassination part of your talents, and they provide a benefit relative to the number of combo points you've put on the enemy, up to 5. You can put these on through your instant abilities, possibly by dodging attacks, and through your stealth attacks. Stats and Buffs --------------- You need not look to any intellect or spirit buffs as you run off a fixed bar of 100 energy. Anything you get with INT should be discarded or replaced with anything else if possible, because even spirit may help as you'll be in stealth when not in combat. You can have strength, but it's best to look for "of the Monkey" items because you want both agility and stamina to not be a damage-dealing weakling. PvP seems to favor a mix of agility and stamina. So it makes sense to have stamina, agility, and strength buffs, but you want to get as much agility as you can. Later in the game, around level 58, you will want to pursue "of the Bandit" items which do not buff stamina and agility as much as "of the Monkey" does, but it makes up for it with pure attack power. Still, more agility is key, so I would stick with monkey items, but bandit items are okay as well. Just know that usually attack power is stronger than strength and agility. *NOTE: Agility adds to attack and also gives a small chance to dodge. More importantly, it also adds to critical hit rating.* With agility in mind, it may be wise to forgo massive stamina in favor of strength and agility. The reason is because as a rogue you won't be around for long causing damage if you engage in one-on-one battle with any other class. Ideally you are to sneak up and provide DPS as the enemy attacks someone else, or kill someone using combos of your abilities and possibly using multiple fights and vanishes. Basically a rogue can eat up anyone if the rogue is not stunned, but as soon as a rogue is pinned they are dead. Abilities --------- Here are the abilities of note, with the rest being instanst strikes. Stealth - Your main ability, basically letting you turn invisible to all other NPC's and those of the other faction so long as you are not too below their level. If you want to stop a patrolling NPC use the Distract ability to hold them in one spot for a short time for you to plan your move. *NOTE: In stealth your first action bar will switch to an alternate, which allows you to hot key your stealth abilities. For this I like to put distract in one, and then have my stealth attacks follow.* Poisons - Again, at level 20 you can start using the different types of poisons bought from vendors. Deadly, Crippling, Mind-numbing, and Instant are the main ones. Deadly stacks poison damage to apply over time, and even gets a weak ability later. Crippling slows enemies, which is a must in PvP and against humanoid mobs who like to run away. Mind-numbing slows casting speed of attacks, good for PvP if you don't want to attack tanks. Instant will cause, of course, instant damage, but since it ignores armor it's better if you want to engage heavily-armored enemies. Wound is okay against opponents that heal, basically making them use two heals for the effect of one, but unless you run into a heal-heavy Paladin I see little use for it. There's another, but only used very late in the game to remove rage effects. *NOTE: I like to keep all my poisons in my main bag, and keep them at 20.* Dual Wield - Again, you can use two one-handed weapons except axes. You want to focus on daggers, but all others can have some perk for a rogue. Sprint - Your only form of increased foot-speed, which could take two minutes to cooldown. It's essential for fleeing, but at all other times it just lets you get to places faster. I'm sure you could use it in combat in PvP to annoy the other players, but other than that it could only be used as part of the gouge/backstab combo, and even then it's not of much help. Blind - This move makes one enemy run in circles for a short time so long as they are not damaged. This is nice if you are attacked by two enemies, jus blind one and hopefully you can kill the other in under 10 seconds. Cheap Shot/Kidney Shot - Cheap shot is a sneak attack to give you 2 combo points and stuns the enemy for a time, with Kidney Shot using your points to stun the enemy for a time while in combat. The reason to stun an enemy in PvE is to reduce damage taken, or as a form of crowd control, but it's possibly better to use a finisher instead on a near-dead enemy. Kidney can be used to disrupt casting of enemies, even for just a second. In PvP or mobs these are best used because they control the crowd numbers and reduce damage taken, or possibly just to stall for time. Gouge - Just like the stun effects, this is serves the same purpose. It is a stun in which you can't attack during or it breaks, but it can disrupt casting and stall for time. In one-on-one with anything you can gouge, run behind them, and use a backstab. I'll admit, it has little use in dungeons other than to stop an enemy from attacking someone else, and unless you really have your critical rating and Backstab buffed, not much reason to do that combo. *NOTE: Gouge could best be used as a fleeing move or to give you time to use a potion without wasting combat time. I guess in a losing battle you can gouge and sprint away. Also be sure you don't have your deadly poisons on because any damage during will break it.* Slice and Dice - In mobs this is your best ability to speed up your DPS, since that is all you are doing. Combine with Blade Flurry and you can eat up two enemies at once, or leaving the second with little health. Eviscerate - This is your splash/burst finisher, and your move of choice in PvE against single enemies. Expose Armor - This will be the least-used of your finishers because the effect does not jump out as beneficial. In PvP you could possibly just take away half of one piece of armor, which would only be useful if there are six of you on one regen pally or something. Rupture/Garrote - Rupture uses combo points, Garrote is a stealth attack with a weak silence. Both cause damage over time that ignore armor. Garrote is guaranteed damage while Rupture causes more, but of course the result it has on combat can vary depending on how the battle goes. Don't think that you can cause the same damage as Rupture, it may go quicker than what you can do. It would be sick to combo this with vanish in PvP on one person. Lockpicking - This falls into a category of profession/key-bypass. As a pseudo-profession you can answer the calls of any player who needs a lockbox opened, or offer it as a service in trade like any other craft. It depends on how much you charge for a pick. I like to leave the tip optional of whoever needs a pick, especially if you are wanting to use it to level. Of course there are several doors and chests in the game that you can open, but of course you must be able to pick them and even then there are only so many dungeons in which to use your talent. *NOTE: To level it you start by going to 50 or so where you first pick up the skill. Usually there is a place nearby that with more locks, such as the bottom of the lake in Redridge. Then a rogue trainer can start telling you where to go for further advancement. Refer to wowwiki.com about good spots for lockpicking.* *NOTE: This is a big note for those of you who don't pick this up on your own. You can only skill-up beyond your max by leveling up. For example, it takes until level 65 until you can open 325 lockboxes. That's 65 times 5, as the skill max goes up by 5 with each level. It's the same as weapons and such.* Talent Trees ------------ I start with stealth/combat, but late I decided to go all stealth because the combos looked better. Stealth - This is my favorite tree, and proved very nice when I went all out and got all the good ones. Buy the Ambush glyph and you can do the following: premeditation, ambush, shadowstep, and eviscerate for death. Consider putting all your remaining points into assassination. Assassination - This is the tree for those who want to cause as many critical strikes and the most burst damage possible. Malice from the start improves crit, but beyond that you are seriously narrowing your scope of gameplay as a rogue because you must put combo points on enemies, but you do get more energy. Combat - Combat helps you fight and somewhat avoid damage. Blade Flurry is the highlight, allowing you to hit two enemies at once and speed up attack; which means it has use as crowd control and an effect similar to slice and dice. Aside from that you can give perks to weapon types, which could be a waste unless you know what you're doing with them. Don't overvalue the non-missing finishers ability, you won't miss that often. It's a popular tree, but I think only because it starts better than the others. ====== Hunter ====== Summary ------- You are a ranged, non-magic DPS machine who has a pet which acts as your tank. You use bows, guns, and crossbows as your main weapons, with your melee attack as your last resort. I know you can focus on melee damage, but come on, you'll be a laughed-at hunter if you do. You have shots and stings which rely on your mana pool. You also have traps to fit your situation and you can heal your pet. Your Hunter's Mark in most cases should be standard on every enemy you need killed. That's about it, your gameplan isn't hard to follow. Pet --- You can only have as many as your stable master can hold, which gets expensive the more you want to keep. You can only bring one with you though. By right- clicking on their portrait you can rename them or let them go. Pets have their own talents and get points about every five levels. They level up separately of you as well. There are different kinds of pets, almost any beast in the wild, but they all eat different things, have different abilities, and different talents. Refer to a website if you want to better understand what kind you want. You can make interesting combos with pets, such as the ones that can go stealth. For these you may have to micromanage, but you can use the Attack command and then you attack when they are close to the target. These pets benefit once they gain a talent point from the Dash ability, then you don't have to micromanage as much. Ctrl + 1 is the attack command to send your pet ahead right before you attack for maximum distance. Also keep in mind you can stable pets, but more space becomes very expensive. Always keep track of your ammo, even if you have to grab lower level ammo. It's better to have more than less. Finally, you have three weapons you'll change throughout the game: guns, bows, and crossbows. Arrows and bullets do not level with each other, so it can make sense to change as the ammo levels, so keep an eye out for the levels of weapons and ammo, especially crafted ammo. *NOTE: I believe at 40+ you can exchange thorium ammo from a guy in the Iron- forge inn.* Abilities --------- Your shots and stings can be fired while moving, but of course all ranged attacks require at least 5 yards of distance to fire. Stings - only one of each, and though your serpent sting may be the most-used, it's a matter of knowing your opponent that will determine the use of your others. Paladins should get hit with the viper sting, ranged attackers should have the scorpid sting, and so on. Shots - early on your really only have the Arcane Shot to cause instant damage, but all shots cause damage, and you can gain Aimed Shot through talents. Concussive Shot is used on just about every enemy you face, especially if you draw aggro away from your pet, or to slow fleeing enemies. Traps - the trap to use relies purely on your enemies. If they are stronger then you could lay a freezing trap, let them get close, and then disengage to gain distance. A fire trap would be better for killing a much stronger enemy. Aspects - I bind these to the number keys because you'll change these more often than you would think. Hawk is your base aspect, viper to regain mana, beast to finish off close enemies, monkey to avoid attacks, cheetah to move faster when not under attack, and so on. Tracking - you get a small perk for tracking the type you're attacking, but other than that you can see that type on your mini map. This helps in battlegrounds, and don't forget to switch off of tracking hidden once the rogues reveal themselves, or if there aren't any. Talents ------- It's had to justify the other two trees, because Marksmanship is clearly the best option. However, PvP hunters may find it interesting to try out of dual spec Survival. Survival is not just melee moves, though there are a few good ones in there. It allows you a few better ways to stay alive against other players. Beast Mastery is designed to be your anti-caster class, while Survival is more for handling melee players. Marksmanship is the best all around class for both PvP and PvE. But if there is any secondary tree to take on, it's Survival for sure. ============ Death Knight ============ Summary ------- With Wrath of the Lich King installed and with a level 55 character you can create DK's on any server. They are level 55 heroic characters who go through a very unique campaign to get geared and learn a little backstory behind the Scourge and Lich King. Sadly, you can only have one per server, so think before you make one and before you decide what you will do with it. The training takes place over different periods of time in a little area which is in the eastern are of the Eastern Plaguelands; I say this because during the game you should notice how the area is now abandoned. You can drop any of the papers you find from drops, and you can use the Crusader Skulls to make free potions before you leave. You also cannot leave the areas until you complete all the quests, and you want to because each quest rewards you with a blue item to go into each item slot, as well as talent points. You learn that DK's use Runes to limit abilities. You have two of each rune type: blood, frost, and plague. Using a rune or two sets off about a 5 second or so cooldown. So basically the runes just mean you can't spam one move over and over. By focusing in one type or the other you essentially cut your effectiveness down to the two runes of that type, but it's not like abilities don't split runes either. DK's are heroic tanks that can dual-wield, use 2H swords or axes, but cannot use ranged weapons or shields. You can also hold a sigil to provide some benefit. Of course there are better tank classes, but DK's can avoid a lot of attacks and only lack the ability to hold a shield, though most DK's will choose to focus on DPS and self-healing. Lastly, you have the ability to give your weapons a rune, this is called Runeforging. DK's are based in Ebon Hold, a floating platform over the Eastern Plaguelands. You use your deathgate power to get there. From here you can buy corpse dust for ghouls and forge runes on your weapons, as well as seek training. There are two glyphs of choice for ghouls. One minor glyph lets you summon ghouls without a body or dust. Another will give your ghoul a 40% boost in health and strength. The free ghoul glyph can be used by anyone, even for the two minute ghouls. Combat ------ As mentioned, you have two runes of each type, meaning you can use up both of one then start using a few others until your runes of choice are ready to go. Be careful not to get twisted by the abilities that use one of two kinds of runes, if you think before you use these you may allow better combos. Icy Touch and Plague Strike both cause diseases. These cause damage and effects but also can feed some of your abilities. The Pestilence and Blood Boil combo allows you to spread the diseases and then explode them for a nice area of effect damage. Death and Decay is your only other AoE spell early on. No matter how you choose to fight, death grip, chains of ice, and death coil are your main abilities. Death grip is your only true ranged attack, but it only brings enemies closer. Chains of ice can be used to trap fleeing enemies and mainly in PvP to stop someone from moving around. Death coil is used either to heal or as a ranged attack. It's easy to overlook, but the coil is one of only a few abilities to use your runic power, so use whenever you can. You have three talent trees: Unholy, Blood, and Frost. Everyone chooses blood because you heal yourself. Unholy is the next popular choice because not only can you have a pet, you also move faster. I however like Frost because I think the abilities are easier to use, and a you have more runic power. If you want to focus on one tree, here are things you need to know about the start of each: Unholy - 5 for better dodge, and on the second tier you can reduce the cooldown of your Death Grip. If you don't want that, consider getting the grip glyph which will erase the cooldown upon a XP or honor kill. Blood - you mainly want the Rune Tap ability, which costs 11 points to get to. if you go all in for the other trees, you'll still have enough to pick this up by 80. Frost - really just the extra armor from the first tier, then maybe some of the frost damage abilities if you're partial to Icy Touch and Chains of Ice. Last thing I'll say is that Icy Touch and CoI are nice ranged abilities, and both can cause damage if you buy the Icy Touch glyph. There is also a Pestilence glyph which makes that ability a little more useful, especially when you consider that some of your abilities require diseases. Also don't forget your non-damage glyphs which put nice effects on you. ======= Warlock ======= I only have a level 20 lock, so at this time I have little to say. Summary ------- Half mage and mostly damage over time (DoT) DPS, with special attention payed to their Fear abilities. Damage over time means they will cast a spell and the affliction will do the damage to the target. With your DoT spells on the target you can then use Fear to chase them away from you, or against the environment you can use other spells for more damage. You can also specialize in your minion or your pure casting spells. Through your Life Tap you can convert health into mana, so rather than go all in for intellect you can just get stamina. Talents ------- Affliction enhances all your DoT spells. Demonology increases the power of your demons, health, and conjured items. And Destruction makes your casting spells much better. So locks have many ways in which to create DPS. PvP is probably best for affliction, because you can just hit them with three afflictions, fear, and they will not last long. Demons are best for PvE, and casting is for whatever. ***************************************************************************** * 6. PvP (PVP6666 ) * ***************************************************************************** =========================== Battlegrounds & Wintergrasp =========================== Summary ------- The key to all combat maps is defense. Only in Warsong would all offense have a chance of winning, but even then it's risky. There are currently 5 battle- grounds and one battle zone. They open up as you level, and most have a place in the world where you can go to trade your marks for items. There are three entry points to the BG's: from the zone they are based in, from the battle terraces in cities, or by opening the player vs player tab on your toolbar as of the latest patch (the easiest way). We will cover them as they open up to you. ----- Name: Warsong Gulch Min Level: 10 Team size: 10 Objective: Capture the flag three times WSG is the smallest and most competitive map in the game. However, there are countless strategies to both defend and attack the flags. There are three base strategies to this map: half and half on offense and defense, 3 on D 7 on O, and middle control. I exclude all on O because when a rogue caps the flag and you can't get it back then you will revert to one of the other strategies. If you want to win this on easy mode, play on horde because they always twink this BG at any level and a single blood elf pally can solo a flag at any time. It's most common to cap a flag with one tank/pally and a healer against a small defense. But only a huge group of 5 with two heals can expect to cap a flag against heavy defense. Once a flag is taken then the flag carrier (FC) must return to their flag room (FR). Offense - depends on the enemy defense. If they have heavy defense you need to think up some strategy to break through. Smashing through and leaving only works with heals or a twink to grab the flag. Mostly you'll need to clear the FR first, then run. If your group is good for directions, you could send in one or two to fake cap the flag and lure the defense away from the flag base, and when they drop it a second team can swoop in for the true cap and take off in the other direction. Defense - there are tons of attack points, but the defense can only work in the FR. It's best to stay out of sight to avoid warlock and hunter attacks from the roof or ledge. Hunters should set a frost or ice trap in front of the flag, but out of reach of a rogue who could disarm it. Healers first, although it's always best to just keep the guards away from the FC, because if it makes it into the field then the healers can just rez and get back on the FC. Basically, if you the FC gets out of the FR, you only have 50 yards to kill the FC or you'll suffer a cap. Getting your flag back - if the defense wipes you have to call where the flag was last seen going, such as the tunnel (tun), ramp, or graveyard (GY). Unless you have solid players in the enemy base, your only hope to get the flag back is while it's in the field. If there are healers or casters, chances are you won't get the flag to drop if you attack the FC only. Slow effects should be poured on the FC but hard DPS must be applied to the healers. Outnumbered there is not much chance to get the flag back, you really need either all the help to fall off the FC or some to keep the FC in place. When it drops, get it quickly or another player may grab it. Capturing the flag - as the FC you can't stealth, use a mount, or use several other tricks (really depends on your class), and hopefully the ones around you know to not cast powerful spells on you. Getting out of the enemy keep usually requires your teammates' help no matter what. This is either by them holding the enemies at bay or having guards and heals. Hiding the flag - when both flags are in their bases there are a number of places to go. The graveyard is a safe place because players rez there and you can bail onto the field and have all the attackers still in the base. The roof or the ramp to the roof are the only places with one entry point, and you can bail into the FR. Finally is the FR where you can hide in any number of places, all of which will allow multiple attack points. The only advantage of being in the FR over the others is that at the other points you may not make it back to cap the flag if a player caps your flag. After a while the FC's will become weak, and even weaker after a time, so once this happens you can pour all damage onto the FC and force a healer to pick up the flag. This is the BG I've had the most failure at. There will always be a BE pally or twink on the horde side, so again, if you want to play this on easy, go horde. ----- Name: Arathi Basin Min Level: 20 Team size: 15 Objective: Control nodes until you amass 2000 points AB is the most even of the BGs because one player cannot determine the outcome. There are five nodes, one near each base, two on the sides, and one in the middle. Usually you just need to control three to win, but once you can consistently control four then you can try for the fifth, and with all five you will win the game in a matter of seconds. Nodes create 10 points about every five seconds, but not while contested so until a flag is under one side's control should it be fought for or defended. Offense - it's never wise for everyone to be on offense, but if the other side has all on offense then you can do single-player caps of nodes. Rogues and druids can excel at AB because they can sneak around and cap nodes once they are left alone. Even more so when a flag is fought for, if the defense moves off the flag then a rogue can sneak around and cap behind them. If the fight is at the flag then you want to try to cap it. Attempting to cap the flag will if nothing else pull the enemies on you and hopefully left the others attack. And there is no limit to how far five horde players will chase one player, so feel free to lure others away (I guess alliance do it too). Also the strategy of attacking a node from one side while others slip in from the other also works, but is seldom used. Defense - with more nodes you can just keep one on un-contested flags, but of course heavily defend nodes under constant attack. It really depends on how well the other team is. If they can't seem to hold any flags then you can probably go for the five node cap. But if your teams keep swapping nodes and the other team is solid, just bank on holding three nodes and defending them with three players. Golden Rule - if you aren't fighting to cap or fighting near a flag, then you are not playing the battleground. This applies to all BGs, but more so in this one because of the possibility someone can cap behind you. "At least we have the stables" - yes, a guild name, but it's true. The number one way teams lose is when only one node is left under your control and every- one tries to defend the last node. Sorry to tell you, but no matter how hard you fight for one node you are not going to win the game if you don't get more. However, the opposite is true. If the other team converges on one node then only a few need to slip through and cap all the other nodes, or if anything else pull the attackers away and let your noob pals free. ----- Name: Alterac Valley Min Level: 51 Team size: 40 Objective: Deplete the other team of 600 reinforcements, or kill their boss There is a lot going on here. First is the fighting, and usually the more powerful team will win. More so than other BGs, pure power can win this map 90% of the time; meaning 10% of the time can superior strategy beat better power. Towers/Bunkers - There are two outside of each teams base. These provide powerful buffs to the boss, so they must be capped. Aside from GY's, these are usually left alone after a cap, so they are almost always easy to cap with four players. If you cap them, be sure to ask for help. Four players can hold a node most of the time. You must hold them until they burn, or recap them if they are yours. Captains - There is Galv for the horde and Balinda for the alliance. Galv is farther south while Balinda is nearer the middle. These guys provide support for the boss as well, so kill them. Usually easy with just five or so players and no enemy players near. Graveyards - Easy to overlook control of these, but if all are capped then everyone goes back to their starting cave. Your starting blitz will be for nothing if you hold no graves and the other players stop you. Quests - There are quests you can get from the staging area, and then more from your base. Quests from the staging area ask you to enter a cave to get a flag so you can get a trinket, and others ask you to attack the nodes and such. Quests from your base require you gather supplies from fallen players to equip your NPCs and some more that require a lot of effort, but I've never seen them used, so I won't even mention them. Refer to wowwiki.com for info on those quests, you'll be the only one doing them if you do. Base - Each team's base has a graveyard, two towers/bunkers, and the boss. Once you cap the base's GY you probably need anywhere from 10-20 players to attack the last boss and hold the base. Beware rogue caps of the nodes, they are quite common. Boss - The boss is the most common way to win. He has guards equal to all of his team's nodes, and buffs for some nodes. The boss will not last against a solid group of healers and DPS, even with some buffs and guards. But ideally you want all four bunkers/towers destroyed before you go all in. There are many ways to go about this map, tons. You could blitz and hope enough of the other team get stuck fighting you, you could play more defense and bleed out a win, or you could do any number of things where holding the nodes will help you win. Above all, it's still about defending the flags you have and the ones you capture until they burn. ----- Name: Eye of the Storm Min Level: 61 Team size: 15 Objective: Amass 2000 points from flag captures and controlling nodes This BG is Warsong and Arathi in one. You have two options to get points, take the flag from the middle and capture it at your nodes, or simply hold nodes. This BG is more about NOT fighting on the roads more than others because you hold nodes simply by standing on them. It's very common for teams to keep swapping nodes four nodes back and forth, and that's where the flag comes into play. The flag is open for either team to take in the middle, and it takes a while to pick it up, so there are usually big fights for the control of the narrow area the flag is on. The nodes are more important than the flag, and if you abandon the flag and control all four nodes then you will win in no time. The flag is simply a way to unbalance games with even teams. Besides, you can't cap a flag if you have no nodes. Ideally you can hold three nodes and not defend the middle one. No matter what, both sides will be in constant battle for many different things and hopefully you fight for the right things. ----- Name: Strand of the Ancients Min Level: 71 Team size: 15 Objective: Touch the orb in the relic chamber This map is almost the same as Wintergrasp, almost. The difference is that up until the final wall there are two lanes to attack. The attackers have the advantage because they can spread out or focus on one side, and if the defenders do not fall back with the attackers then the game is basically over. The defenders have the advantage when they fall back to the third wall in time. If the third wall is defended and the attackers are not that strong, there is almost no way to break through. I believe Alliance always starts on attack, then they play defense for the next round. The time the next team has to attack is set by how fast the first team took the chamber, or ten minutes if there was no cap. I have not seen a game where neither team could get the chamber, but if that happens then the game ends with no winner, only memories. Rules for winning SotA: *Vehicles are for attacking gates, nothing else; if you use them to only attack players then you will lose. *Turrets will eat tanks, but don't stay on them when your gate is broken. *Graveyards are not important. *Shops open beyond the first wall after a while once the first wall is broken. Use those vehicles and also the ones that spawn at the beach. *Rogues and everyone else can grab bombs and run them to gates, place them, get out of the way, and cause a decent amount of damage. This helps when that third wall is defended. Bombs are at the sides of each gate, far to the sides. *If your intial attack focuses on one side and the defense does not pick it up, you will win. *Run bombs if you have stealth, you don't even need to dismount to pick them up. Just run up to the gate, plant, and go get more. This is best when at the final gate and it's a stalemate. *For the touch of the relic, either send in a pally or run with a rogue, anything really. ----- Name: Wintergrasp Min Level: 55?, but should be 80 (it's basically 80 only) Team size: As many as are on the server Objective: Hold or defend the keep until time runs out This is set in the world of Northrend, an actual zone you can fly in and out of at any time. There are 2.5 hours between battles, and the faction defending is the faction that won the last battle. However, there are four things to keep track of during the fight. 1. Your rank. I say this because you can sit in WG and do nothing for a single mark of honor. If you win and you're at full rank, you will get three. However, the more important thing is that your rank determines what vehicles you can build at the shops. You advance in rank by killing five enemies, either NPCs or players. The order is catapults, demolishers, and siege engines, with increasing power and armor for each but decreasing speed. 2. Control of shops. You cannot build vehicles without shops. Each shop allows you a total of four vehicles, but only the defenders can hold all six with two being in the keep. Shops can be captured by standing at them with more players or destroying them and standing at them. There are other reasons to hold the shops, such as the next point... 3. The southern towers. If you are attacking the keep, then you must defend these three towers. If you are defending the keep, you must destroy them. Aside from a tower bonus, which is 5% for each one, the game is shortened by 10 minutes if all three are down. The bonus transfers to the defenders if they take them down. Near these towers are two shops, so if the defenders control those and the attackers do not make an effort to reclaim the south, then there is little the attackers can do to prevent the towers' destruction. 4. The keep. This is the least important thing because you should get a high rank before making vehicles, the total vehicles from the shops determines who will win, and losing the south will give way to losing one of the forward shops and having a huge force attacking the attackers. But for those that start attacking the keep, which is not wise, or if you do get to attacking then you should attack at least in two places. It requires a superior team and more of the other factors in order to push through the front. You break down one wall, another, and then the relic chamber gate. Once a wall is broken then all the defenders should fall back to the courtyard, but if they don't need to fall back then they have the advantage. Basically the map is meant to force players to spread out, not just focus on the keep. Defenders lose if they don't have enough and are sitting behind the keep. Attackers lose if they neglect to defend their towers and lose control of the shops. From my experience, this map is horrible because of a number of factors. One is that most players do not know the map. Two is that there is a Tenacity buff for the outnumbered side, which is supposed to account for the lack of players, but not all players in WG are playing, some are fishing or collecting mats (such as bots). Finally are the spies, and yes they do exist. Players will build a catapult and drive it to some hidden area and leave it there so that that faction will have less vehicles. It happens for all BGs, but this map affects more than hurt feelings. Rewards: *Vault of Archavon raid opens inside the chamber, which only has two bosses, but great lootz. *Collection of Stone Keeper Shards from all bosses in Northrend. Helps buy stuff in WG. *WG quartermaster sells stuff for WG marks of honor and SK shards. Daily Quests, from various NPC's either at your camp or in the keep, they award honor, SK shards, and gold: *Win *Kill 10 players and/or NPCs *Destroy 3 vehicles *Destory a southern tower *Defend or pilot vehicles that destroys structures *Several collection quests meant for times when the battle is not on ***************************************************************************** * 8. Author Info / Copyright * ***************************************************************************** ------- Credits WoWwiki.com - for basically half of what I've learned ----- ----------- Please contact me if you need any help, if you want to praise me, if you want to talk, or if you want to ask a question. All help is appreciated, but that doesn't mean it will be included in the guide. No response either means I've heard it before, I've already done it, or I just can't help you - replying saying "I can't help you" makes little sense. Flamers may or may not get a response, most likely not. Please, I'm not here to hate on people or start fights, so even if you disagree with me but aren't looking to flame, just be polite. Trying to say I fail is a waste of your time, so don't even try. My email: lunatic_252000@yahoo.com Title of your email should be: WoW Extra points for good spelling. So anything you want to send, email away. PS - To GameFAQ's users, if you like the guide, click "recommend" at the top of the guide, but only if you like it. PPS - I cannot fix bugs, glitches, or achievements/trophies not hitting. I mean, I can't write some code and hack your machine or anything, and speaking of which, I can't fix technical issues either. That should be a given, but these things I get asked a lot and I can never fix them for you. ----- ----------- I have other guides floating around too. They are: Resident Evil 4 Dead Rising Gears of War Lost Planet Crackdown GRAW 2 Rainbow Six Vegas TES IV: Oblivion Shivering Isles Knights of the Nine The Darkness BioShock Halo 3 Half-Life 2 HL2: Episode One HL2: Episode Two Call of Duty 4 Assassin's Creed Mass Effect Advance Wars: Days of Ruin Perseus Mandate Sam & Max Episode 203 Devil May Cry 4 God of War: Chains of Olympus Rainbow Six Vegas 2 Okami Grand Theft Auto 4 Condemned 2: Bloodshot Metal Gear Solid 4 Alone in the Dark (360) NCAA Football 09 Madden 09 Dead Space Gears of War 2 Prince of Persia (2008) Call of Duty: World at War FEAR 2 Resident Evil 5 -------------- --------------- I've also been published in GamePro magazine, June 2007. Pretty cool if you ask me, and all because I write these little guides. Also, I am in the October issue as well, which should be out at the time of this guide's release. At least I ain't a one hit wonder. In a nice surprise, I didn't even know I was in the March 2008 issue of GamePro, but I am. Maybe I'll be in more I don't know about... Look to Gamerhelp.com for a slew of other articles written by me in the featured article section. ---------------- ---------------- Here is my list of sites: GameFAQs (main host site) GameSpot IGN OCModShop.com chaptercheats.com GamersTemple (http://www.gamerstemple.com/) TheGameReviews wiredgamingcommunity.com gametower.org SuperCheats GamesRadar CheatPlanet CheatCodeCentral (cheatcc.com) My360.com.au gamerevolution.com cheatingdome.com unlimitedgamer.net and more here and there, too many to keep up with and even a few foreign ones too! *NOTE: There are many more with single guides, and then others with a few, and some that I just don't keep track of.* All other sites must ask permission if they want this. All I ask is that the guide be ad-free and in this text format. And if you want to make a donation at my site for hosting a guide, that is fine too. ------------------- -------------- Here is my website: www.thechaosuniverse.com You'll find all my other guides here too and perhaps something else you may like. ------------- ------------- I'm trying to up the quality of my guides all around. Currently I am trying to find options to make a SOLID website with users and boards and all that good stuff. With every guide, at some point, I want to cover at least their hard mode if not a little more. I ask for donations not just because I've helped you, but also because I want to buy things like a pdf maker, image editor, video capture card, and funds toward getting someone to make me a nice website. For the short term all I want is to make color guides with pics, and then make videos. Although the vids are iffy since the pics would do, and it would take forever for me to upload those vids. You can give whatever you want, all of it helps. ... maybe a little of it will pay for Warcraft time, just a little though. http://www.thechaosuniverse.com/donationcenter ----- --------- COPYRIGHT --------- This guide may not be reproduced under any circumstances except for personal, private use. It may not be placed on any web site or otherwise distributed publicly without advance written permission. Use of this guide on any other web site or as a part of any public display is strictly prohibited, and a violation of copyright. All trademarks and copyrights contained in this document are owned by their respective trademark and copyright holders. Copyright 2009 Brad Russell</p>